Spark Plugs / Wires / Coil Packs:
Install your new spark plugs (which you dabbed some anti-seize on) and install them in hand tight, and then a quarter turn.
I installed my plug wires onto the plugs and let them hang for now until I put the coil back on.
Now reinstall the coil packs, tighten down the (10mm – long socket) bolts and insert the spark plug wires into the coil themselves. Don’t forget to reconnect the main harness connections to the coil pack connections.
Replace your oil filter with a new one. Install 6 and (roughly a half) quarts of oil. Refill your radiator through the coolant overflow reservoir (located in back on the drivers side) with 50% Water and 50% Dexcool. I think I remember going through a little bit more than a gallon of Dexcool. Leave the cap off because once you start the car and let it idle, it will take more coolant/water.
Look around in the engine bay for any connections, grounds, extra tools, body parts, and make sure everything looks good. Now it’s time for the moment of truth!!!
Pull two fuses in the front (passenger side) fuse box. The two fuses are under the hood fuse box. There is one called ODD/INJ/COIL and one called EVEN/INJ/COIL which disable both the ignition coils and fuel injectors for each bank.
This will allow the engine to turn over with the turn of the key, but not actually start up. Crank over the key for 5 seconds and listen for any crazy noises. If nothing, you are ready to have your tuner tune you up. Or, if you are feeling good, put the fuses back in and crank it up.
Once started / Things to watch:
If it won’t idle, hold the gas down a little bit and keep it idling. Hopefully it will learn itself out.
The engine will be noisy for about 8 seconds. The lifters haven’t filled up with oil yet.
Watch the oil pressure intently!! It should come up to 30-50psi after a few seconds. If it doesn’t, shut the car off. Something isn’t right.
The engine bay is going to smoke. Coolant, oil, grease, etc is going to be burnt off.
Once you can get it idling, add water/coolant as needed. Once it’s up to operating temp, and the coolant/water is filled up, put the cap on the coolant reservoir.
Watch for leaks underneath!
If no problems, then you can drive it if you decide to. Just keep the rpm’s down under 4k for the first day. The springs need to heat cycle overnight, so it’s ok to redline the car the next day. From now on no more beating on your car until it’s reached operating temperature. Unless of course you like snapping valve springs.
If you are a little more cautious like me, call the tuner to come over and hook you up without driving it. I’m probably being too careful, but I didn’t want to wash out the rings or foul out the plugs since I added bigger injectors. Up to you.
I think that’s about it. If I missed anything, sorry let me know. I’m going to make these instructions into a .pdf, I’ll just have to add pics instead of the links. I’d like to thank jmX at ls1howto.com, Darkman on caddy forums, caddy forums, and ls1tech. I’ve learned plenty of things along the way from each. Also thanks to my buddy Lance for helping me figure out the pushrod length and the wipe pattern. He's old school.....and badass!