I have now had the car in twice to no avail to get this fixed. First time they said they had to "download new s/w". Latest time they "topped off supercharger coolant". Same problem remains. Warning comes on at intermittant times and the temp gauge always goes to zero when it goes on. Can happen when I first start in the morning or when i am in the middle of a drive. Oil temp is never over 185 regardless of whether the warning is showing up or not. Then unexpectantly it goes back off and the temp gauge starts reading correctly again. I have told the dealer it seems like a temp sensor problem...but they don't seem to listen.
I had the same problem, and finally got around to replacing the thermostat with a Delco one this past weekend. As far as I can tell, i haven't gotten the Engine Hot error in similar conditions that used to trigger it.
Oil temps are a bit different for me after I swapped the part out:
Before the change i would rarely get above 195. With the replacement, the temps rise faster, and average temp is around 195-210 (had it get up to almost 220). The weather here has been bouncing around 100 since i changed it out, so that might be a factor.
I had done separate checks on "normal" oil temps before, and found your current oil temps to be the norm. I'd be interested in if you had a 160 in there before if that's what kept the oil temp down a bit.
Mine is doing this now, it kicks the front fan on full blast and shuts the a/c off. I wish this wasent happening with 110° weather... I'm going to have to look up how to change the thermostat within the next few days because this is annoying. Your not alone on this.
Straight forward replacement job...just a tight area to work in.
Taking out the intake would provide more clearance. I lost a little bit of fluid, so had to top it off to full when i was done.
Engine oil temps on my car run around the same (190-210 range) , max i have seen is 217 with 85 degree outside and it was stop and go traffic. I am also curious to know what is the limit where I should be concerned.
My understanding (and I just checked on Mobil's website to verify) is that 250 is a limit for conventional oil to begin breaking down. Synthetic oil limit increases to above 300° - which, I think, is where the sensor kicks in and warns you to idle the car until it cools down.
Note there's a ton of info there, hard to find specifics - but there appear to be a lot of cars that see "normal" high oil temps of 230-240°. Mobil recommends 0-40 Synthetic for those applications, but they note that's also what the vehicle manufacturer states to use in those cars.
I've beat on the car in 95* temps and had the oil at 230. You'd need to be on a racetrack to get it any higher. Consensus is 300* and its time to shut it down. But you'll feel heatsoak wayyyy before then.
I also have a 2006 STS-V and had this same experience. I went through a lot of trial and error with the dealer but the tech is very meticulous and finally rooted it out. The problem to turned out to be a bad thermostat; the challenge was that I had just had a host of preventive maintenance done, belts hoses etc including the thermostat. It turns out the replacement thermostat was bad. A quick fix for this short term and it will last for a brief while is to disconnect the Red terminal on the battery for 30 seconds and reconnect. Keep the key fob handy and hit the door lock button if the alarm goes off. This was probably one of the most challenging issues I have encountered with the car. Hope this helps
I had this happen to mine several times earlier this year when the weather was much, much cooler so I knew it had to be some sort of error. I bought a scanner locally and used it twice to turn off this code. It has not happened in months now and it is consistently over 100 deg F here everyday(CenTex) and my engine temps have not gone over 200 deg F.
I have the same problem and my dealer says nothing is wrong, won't honor the Major Guard extended warrenty and wants to charge for the diagnostic because they say there are no stored trouble codes and can't reproduce the problem. Do you have the TSB and / or the stored ECM codes that should be there? It would help me argue against the money the stealership wants to charge me.
I am having the same issue, I have been dealing with it since I bought the car back in January. I have taken it to the dealer a couple of times but each time the message has cleared and the A/C is back on. The last time I asked them to just change the thermostat, but they would not under the warranty without seeing the fault. I have to agree that it is pretty annoying the weather in Florida is not giving me a break.
Sorry to hear. Hope your stealership didn't charge you $160 for the diagnostic not to find anything like mine at St Claire in San Jose. This is one reason I don't go there. I expected to have this repaired under warranty. Was hoping the board would provide me information regarding TSB and DTC code before they charged me for nothing other than their inability to resolve. I guess I will have to drive there directly the next time this occurs.
This happened to me last week in Florida when it was 60 degrees outside. Brought it into my dealer which is very close to my house in Brandon Florida. They knew what the issue was, gave me a CTS loaner for the night and replaced the thermostat the next day. Problem solved. If only all Cadillac dealers were as good as this one in the Tampa area they would sell many more cars. Next car will probably be an ATS variant. Not sure if they will ever get a V version. I LOVE my 2006 STS-V but extended warranty is up in August so I'm thinking of something newer. Also I'm a bit tired of 14 MPG and fuel costs will be much higher soon.
I average 16mpg city/hwy. I get 24mpg on level ground cruise control set at 80/85. I slow down to 70 I get 26mpg. Even on a long run a couple wake up blast to a hundred drops the MPG like a rock to 18/19mpg average.
I used half a tank of gas on a 10 mile highway trip with other fast cars to norwalk.....
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