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Thread: EBTCM,Electronic Brake & Traction Control Module

  1. #16
    crabgrass's Avatar
    crabgrass is offline Cadillac Owners Fanatic
    Automobile(s): 1996 Deville
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    The 5th bolt is the hard one and that is why I removed the whole setup pump and all. That stud that mounts the EBTCM to the frame bracket is on a sleeve that slides over a rubber isolator, the rubber is covering the final bolt. I did not have to cycle the abs system after just bleed the brakes.

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Apr 2013

    Re: EBTCM,Electronic Brake & Traction Control Module

    Okay! Now. so that I don't misunderstand... The stud I have the nut off at this point is on a sleeve. That sleeve slides over a rubber insulator (presumably that is what I can see "along side" the frame mounting bracket?) and the insulator covers the head of the #5 fastener (which is in fact a bolt, right?). So -before I "Rip and Tear" and screw something up- this raises two more simple (I HOPE!) questions: 1)how do I proceed (correctly" THE FIRST TIME) to remove the stud and/orthe insulator WITHOUT removing the valve body, and 2)is it indeed POSSIBLE AT ALL to remove the EBTCM (proper) leaving the brake line piping intact, thus avoiding not only having to bleed, but also the Dreaded Twisted Off Brake Line Syndrome! Sure, I have proper line wrenches, but even though the lines themselves are not visibly rusty, there is no guarantee that a line connected with a flared
    joint that was made 16 years ago hasn't become "slow-welded" together. Pointing out the location, I will only be able to either SEE or REACH (but not both at the same time). Rusty lines that fail at disassembly should absolutely be changed, and I am not afraid to do whatever I HAVE to do if and when the time comes, but I would rather NOT "induce my own difficulties" if at all possible.

    crabgrass...Thank You very much for taking the time to "take up the task". Sorry for the somewhat tardy reply, but, must understand...Needs of Service only allow me to "play" with this at IT'S choosing! The olderer I get, the less hours there are in a day (aging is NOT for the
    Faint-hearted!!!). Thanks Again
    Last edited by Andsoforth; 06-29-13 at 11:31 AM. Reason: typos

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Apr 2013

    Re: EBTCM,Electronic Brake & Traction Control Module

    So... can ANYONE help me out at this point? Please?

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Apr 2013

    Re: EBTCM,Electronic Brake & Traction Control Module

    Swap is complete. Operational check 100%!
    Here's "how to do it" on '95/'96 Cadillacs using AC Delco P/N 25633191 module. It is my understanding that other years are similarly installed. Before beginning, remove the air cleaner "lid", the filter, and the filter box lower half. This is held
    down by two rubber "frommitses", lift the box up and off these rubbers and slide the "legs" out from under the top opening of the PCM top cover. Next ( will have to remove the steel corner brace plate to complete this step) grab
    the PCM (complete) by the side facing the engine and lift it up and off similar rubber frommitses on the inboard side. When these are free, there is one more thing holding the PCM in place...there is a plastic "horn" molded onto the case that
    is pointer right at your belt buckle. Lift the PCM up and out of the hole in the fender wall and stow it (my "donor car" had enough slack to simply turn it around and let it lay on the engine nicely; the ESC wouldn't reach that far and I needed toturn it and lean it against the fender. Okay, let's get greasy!

    1) remove -and stow out of the way- the terminal strip connector. There is a shiny "latch" that folds down over the connector on the forward end. Lift this latch, pull upwards on the aft lifting stub and the connector "swings" up and forward
    on and molded-in "hook" watch this action carefully the first time you do this, as it is very easy to re-connect the connector WRONGLY and/or BREAK STUFF.
    2) from under the car, locate and LOOSEN ONLY the three 10mm NUTS that secure the pump body AND the elec. module (as a unit) to the frame mount. Two are located in the "slot" (opening) between the frame and the radiator support, and
    the rear nut is accessible through an opening in the frame stamping.
    3) shove upwards from underneath to slide the three studs holding these nuts up and out of the SLOTS that are in the top of the mounting bracket. Not to worry, there's lots of flex in the brake lines and any line(s) that is too rusty as to
    break at this "insult" weren't safe to drive on anyway, and needed replacing before you "spoiled them" with this mild abuse.
    4) using a #25 Torx bit (I found that a spring-type 1/4" flex extension to be the secret weapon here, sometimes in conjuction with a regular 6" long extension) (I also found that removing the clamps that secure a wire loom across the front
    face of the lower frame crossover provides the required "little more room" making this job less stressful) remove the four corner screws (other years are alledged to have more).
    5) to access what has herein come to be known as the "fifth bolt", you will have to now work off the rubber dodad that the stud is mounted to in order to get to the Torx "socket head bolt" (Gawd, that was SO EASY to say, considering that
    this is so difficult to figure out -the first time- because this is a weird way of attaching things that is actually beautifully simple and my old eyes don't focus up close so pretty good anymore) that it is hiding. Penetrating oil will solve the
    issue of the rubber "bore" of this bushing RUSTING TO what is actually the "stub" on the bolt head that this rubber bush/mounting stud is hiding. You only need to "dislodge" this one rubber thingie, leave the other two on the pump body in place IF YOU CAN, 'cause they are a BEAR to get back in place through and around the frame (the rear one especially, don't ask me how I know!).
    6) once this has be accomplished, nothing is keeping the module on the side of the pump body except for a thin diameter rubber gasket that may or may not be stuck to the face of the parting line. There are, however two plugs mated right
    near the bottom edge that you can clearly see, looking up from the bottom. The module is very light for its size, and with the flex in the brake lines available, it all comes apart very simply and easily. I removed one from the bottom, the
    other from the top.
    7) installation is the reverse of removal. MIND THE MANNER in which you reinstall the EBTCM connector plug! It needs to go STRAIGHT DOWN onto its heel over the pivot point, where it then TIPS from straight up-and-down to flat, and in
    place. The metal "lock" needs to be "open" while this is all happening, until you actually LOCK IT when the plug has mated properly. You CANNOT correctly mate this plug if the lock is down as you tip it in. You WILL see why they cast on
    the little lifting ear on the rear end. It makes it possible to not only LIFT the connector when you unlock it, it allows you to LOCK the lock, when you have it properly closed, by giving you a place to get the right forefinger in there to hold
    it closed while your left hand locks the lock.
    8) reinstall the PCM, air cleaner box, filter and lid, and the corner brace. Redo the clamps on the lower wire run (and the plastic engine guard piece IF it was still there). Don't forget to reconnect the airflow sensor on the filter lid BEFORE you
    put the plastic cover back on the relay/fusebox, or you might freak out when you next fire up and see if you fixed it, and get a Check Engine Light about sixty feet down the road!

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