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Speaker Fit Guide Please Check & Ask Fitment ?s HERE ONLY!!!

71K views 67 replies 41 participants last post by  Anthonyfp 
#1 · (Edited)
Fit Guide
NOTE More Years and Models will be added as I have time and chance to verify all the sizes listed below I myself have verified and fully trust.

Eldorado
1992-2002
Front Door Bose 4 Inch Non Bose 5.25 with 2 inch tweeter
Rear 6x9



Seville
1992-1997
Front Door Bose 4 Inch Non Bose 5.25 with 2 inch tweeter
Rear 6x9

1998-2004
Dash 3.5
Front Doors Bose 8 Non Bose 6.5
Rear Doors 6.5
Sub 12.5



Deville
1994-1999
*speakers may not be located in all locations but the holes and mounts are there*
*Center Channel 4x6 *
Front Doors 5.25
Front Door Panel 2 Inch
*Rear Door 5.25*
*Rear Door Panel 2 Inch*
Rear Self 6x9

2000-2005
Center Channel 3.5
A Pillars 2 inch
Front Doors 6.5
Rear Doors 6.5
Sub 10
 
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#2 ·
hey there master of all that is audio...I just wanted to know ..on the 96-02 eldo if Im pulling the bose speakers ,and the non bose was a 5.25 is there something I shoul;d know about putting 5.25 in the door like a spacer or something ...?thanks for all help past present and probably future
 
#8 ·
cool, I actually was working on my caddy yesterday and seen that it seems like a standard port for 6x9s. To install them though I need to take out the back seats correct? I ran the amp to power them at least so right now I have the factory ones powered..haha, obviously dont sound too good so need to put some new ones in.
 
#10 ·
Hey guys,

I am new to the group and will have more questions I am sure...I am already learning a lot here!...but for now, can you tell me if I can easily upgrade a 1996 Sedan Deville stock system to a Bose system? I have a '96 Deville that I am selling to my brother in law...I just bought another 96 Deville for a good deal. The "new" car is in better mechanical shape. The only problem is the one I'm selling has the better trim (soft-top, heated seats, and the BOSE system with12 disc changer)...I have a new after-market head unit with DVD and only want to swap the Bose amps and speakers if I can...if not I will have to shell out $$$ for a new system. Are all of the 96 Devilles prewired for the premium sound? Can I easily just remove and install the Bose speakers and the amp in my "new" Deville? Please let know....Again Thank you in advance!!!

STS2003 I am too new to PM you so I've posted this on three threads so far...hope to hear from you soon!
 
#13 ·
I just bought a 2000 Deville DHS (has Bose) and I noticed in the 4 hours I drove in it on Saturday that the Bose system doesn't have the kinda bass response I've gotten used to get in my VW Touareg (Monsoon-kinda stereo)....and I was wondering what I could do to change that..without putting in a sub and all that. (I've done that plenty in the past..not looking to again)

I see the speaker size is said to be 6.5 at the start of this thread..but then on Crutchfield and on this same thread I see 5.25 mentioned. Per Crutchfield, a 6.5 can't fit in this spot. I'm not looking for modifications....so what is the deal? (confused)

Another question....if I buy after market speakers, how many watts per channel (on the Bose) is it powering..RMS? (I'd rather not have to buy an amp and all that if I can just replace the 5.25? speakers in my front and rear door with something better like JBL, Alpine, etc.

This spacer that got brought up....how much extra does that cost on install? If it's just something simple, I'd be open to it....if something costly..probably not. I paid $6000 (119k miles) for this vehicle and I'm not looking to make it a $$ pit.

Thanks for any thoughts or feedback.

-new member Witt
 
#16 ·
you want more low end
so youll replace your speakers....

speakers are not powerful enough nor designed to highly increase low end

if you want more bass youll need to add subs its that simple
especially since the stock amp will cut base at higher volume levels like its supposed to..
 
#17 ·
As mentioned previously, I've had subs before (in 3 other vehicles)..I understand how bass works..lol.

I'm not looking to go the subs route as it's a pain, takes up space, and easily more $$.

Maybe I didn't ask this right....has anyone out there replaced the stock speakers in the front..and had good luck getting some better bass response in doing so? If so, which model of speakers, etc. (You can get better bass response without needing to add a sub)

I'm not looking to have a speaker on wheels....I'm just looking to upgrade the factory speakers..and trying to get a better understanding of how many watts per channel the bose system is putting out..
 
#19 ·
STS,

I’ll amuse this idea just to see where it takes me. The “factory sub” in the vehicle, where is it located..I ask because I haven’t run across it yet. I assume it to be on the rear deck of the vehicle firing into the back window area. Surely it’s a tiny space, and obviously since I’m hearing poor bass with the system itself, it’s nearly going unnoticed. That said, what would be your exact recommendation for replacing that item..without modification? (I’m aware the Infinity unit has a built in amp..self powered..but I assume that it wont fit this application)

Back to the speakers….they suck. If I get some JBLs, Alpine, Infinity, etc….will the existing Bose amp(s) be ok to power those to improve sound? I’m not needing to be blasted out, I’m merely wondering if the Bose amplification would be enough to even provide weak power to after-market speakers? (I’m not looking to have new amps and all that)

Thanks.
 
#20 ·
dead center in the rear deck
its a 10 inch free air sub
2 ohm
75-125 watts stock i believe

will the stock amp power them
sure
but its a 275 watt amp
figure 75 for the sub
thats 200 watts per channel at 1 ohm
so 50 watts per channel at 1 ohm
hook up a JL speak thats 4 ohms now your only using 12.5 watts
hook up a Infinity Kappa 2 ohm and now your only using 50 watts

and no one makes a 1 ohm speak other than bose.
 
#40 ·
So this would mean that Bose runs a 2 ohm sub and 1 ohm speakers?
or is that 2 ohm related to the Kicker Free-Air use sub you suggested?

I removed my aftermarket sub / amp a while back because the amp went bad causing the sub to go out too (when the amp powered on it caused the sub to bottom out several times then it was done before I could do anything about it).

This thread got me thinking of replacing the factory 10" with another free-air 10" instead of using an aftermarket box type setup.
I was looking at Crutchfield.com and they have some interesting replacements available.

If the Bose sub is a 1 ohm then I'm looking at this one:
Infinity 102.7w Kappa 10" 1 or 4 ohm selectable $162
Its DVC 2 ohm internally wired to give only choices of 1 or 4 ohm
RMS 50 - 350 watts
Peak 1400 watts

If it is a 2 ohm then I'm thinking about this one:
Infinity 100.9w Kappa 10" 2 or 4 ohm selectable $190.
Same specs as 1 ohm version.

However they have a really good price on a Kicker Comp 07C104 $45.00
Its a 4 ohm SVC
RMS 50 - 150 Watts
Peak 300 Watts

But if the Bose stock is
75 watts @ 1 ohm
37.5 watts @ 2 ohm? - most likely not worth it
18.75 watts @ 4 ohm? - def not worth it

or if stock is
75w @ 2 ohm
37.5 @ 4 ohm? - not bad for only $45

Any advice on what would be a good idea?
 
#21 ·
STS....since I cant post a link (new member), I will mention the Kicker 10" free air $89 on Crutchfield....I would see this as a decent, cheap, replacement....and the factory power would be ample....(per your post I assume..)

Thanks for the detail....loved it.
 
#22 ·
not a problem
thats a good bang for buck sub nothing earth shattering but an improvement over stock without getting crazy
id recommend adding an external amp which has speaker level inputs to power it
connect the stock sub wiring to the speaker level inputs
then power the sub with the amp
powering the amp is cake since the battery is under the rear seat so no need to run amp wires the length of your car.
 
#28 ·
Thanks for all your help with all this. I blew my sub and now that i have it out i see where it has come unsealed around half the speaker. Probably age, Texas heat and I was listening to the Muse when i blew it!

I just want what i had. No amps, nothing...SO I cant just go buy any ol sub?
What are the specs i need?
Ohms? Watts? Free Air?
Can someone please suggest me a replacement?
I want something cheap and compa:confused:rible to what I have.
 
#23 ·
Whats up everone havent posted in 4ever! Getting the stuff to do a major audio upgrade. Just got a Rockford Fosgate Type RF X7 1500w. Ive heard from many RF fans that the birth sheets on these babies ranged from 1700-1900wrms! I wanted to test it out when I first got it, so I took a trip to my bro's house. He's got a bd1000 pushin' 2 S12L7 solobarics w/ a box as big as his little chevy malibu will fit. We tested the amp for about 1/2 hour on his 12's, adjusting the gain up then down adding a little more bass boost via bass knob, never did turn them both all the way up, as he was a little scared to, but I dont blame him. It made his radar detector drop right off the windshield, was kinda funny. Its a mean amp:want:.

But anyways, Im planning on getting 1 S15L7 4 ohm and a 2 farad cap. Gonna build my own vented box out of 1" MDF. Was gonna get a 10" solo-x but my jaw dropped after I figure the price of the sub and box. I also plan on taking all the carpet out and dynomating the entire trunk, then put it back together so it still looks good. Now I know the stock radio is not gonna be able to overpower the bass but I freakin love the finger controls on the steering wheel.

And this is were I need your help Jason! What head unit will match the controls on the wheel? Also, what kinda interior speaks you suggest?

Thanks man,
Greg
 
#27 ·
Ok i know i was gonna go small and just get a solo l7 15", but it 09' im takin whats mine, just got a 12" solo x. Yea i know...wow what is he thinking, but my 10" kicker comps can only take so much from my 'source'-(1700w @2 ohms) is alot even at half gain on 10's. Got a 4 Farad Kole Audio Cap few days ago, 150a breaker installed ready for the box build. Get ready for some pics its gonna be bad! My first box build....
 
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