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Convert AC from Freon-12 to R134a ?

18K views 24 replies 11 participants last post by  cadillacmike68 
#1 · (Edited)
Hello,

Today i went to a AC refill workshop and asked about refilling my AC and if it was still possible to fill the old gas, (which it wasn't)
Anyhow, my system which i though was empty was not, it was filled with 50psi air according to the AC guy (no idea why), So i am delighted to know that my AC is not leaking.
He went on and filled R134a compressor oil and afterwards started filling my system with R134a gas...but my compressor would not engage, The AC guy called his boss or similar and asked for advice filling a 89 Cadillac with gas and eventually he told me that my compressor would not engage on R134a because the system did not recognize the gas. However if i changed ac filter and oil it would work, he told me??

I feel confused, have any of you guys "converted" your AC or have you got it to work by DIY R12 substitutes like RedTek or Enviro Safe? :confused:(R600a/R290 propane)
 
#2 ·
You by pass the low pressure sensor on the dryer to engage the compressor (jumper across the 2 wires on the plug). Or erase the low A/C pressure code in the body computer. Filter? He must mean the receiver dryer. My Sedan Deville was filled with Propane for years. The green bottles you barbecue with! The air you had in it was probably added to find a leak prior to your purchase? On that age of car, replacing the dryer is not a bad idea but this in itself wont engage a compressor. You are either mis stating what was said or these people are idiots! A/C systems recognize pressure, not brand or type of refrigerant.
 
#4 ·
You by pass the pressure sensor long enough to add Freon. THEN... you plug the wires back onto the sensor. Your question was how can I get the clutch to engage to add Freon. I say again, A/C systems only measure pressure, not the type of refrigerant used. I'd find another shop!
 
#7 ·
I've done the conversion myself, and what they say above is 100% correct. Once you jump the two wires, you could fill it with helium of nitrogen, and it would eventually kick on. I might not work well or it might explode, but it would eventually kick on. The guy you took your car to is bad. Very bad. Find a new guy. Quick!
 
#8 · (Edited)
I am assuming that the HVAC person was able to remove all the old mineral oil from the system and he would also have to change the accumulator with a new one with desiccant that is compatible with the PAG oil that
would have been put in to be compatible with the R134. On the accumulator there is the low pressure cutout switch. this can be unplugged and short the plug to fool the BCM to activate compressor to allow you to charge
the R134 gas. This system uses temperature probes on the high side before the orifice valve and a temp sensor just on the low side after the orifice valve. the BCM will monitor the rate at which the temperature drops
on the low side and thus the pressure on the low side. It should turn off compressor at -2C and back on about 10C. The gas has temp/ pressure characteristics that are different than R12. The BCM is able to confirm
different pressure drop curves and probably go into a fail
mode and kick into ECON. R134 has higher pressures than R12 and also changes temp at a different rate than R12
I have used Redteck in my system and it works good as it looks very similar to R12 characteristics for temp drop on low side. also it will work with old mineral oil.
I hope the teck got out all the mineral oil with a flush. Also if the compressor is a DA type it may not handle the pressure of R134. Replace compressor with a HR6 type.
The BCM will turn on the radiator fans when the high side temp reaches a certain temperature, again this affects the low side temp slope. this slope is part of the BCM programming and at present not
able to change as no code available.
It is possible you may need to change the condenser with a newer cross flow type that has more efficiency than the original that was in the car. R134 has higher pressures and not as efficient.
Make sure the low and high side valve ports were upgraded to the new snap on connectors for R134 to inform techs that R12 was removed. and comply with Gov regs.
I also installed a filter/drier onto the liquid line just coming out from the condenser to help clean and protect the orifice and compressor.
 
#12 ·
I am thinking of getting EnviroSafe refrigerant (propane made specialized for AC) and fill up my 89 Brougham. I know that propane gas is denser than R12 and R134a so you will need less. What i can't find anywhere (not even in my workshop service manual) is how many PSI the low pressure side shall have when fully loaded since it just says how many oz of R12 to add in a empty system (by placing the gas cylinder on a scale) i am guessing around 50-60 PSI?
 
#13 ·
Propane might be safe for the environment but it will make a spark into a large explosion in an accident situation.

Nevertheless garages in New Yawk City used to use it a lot in AC.

I have not heard of any chunks of Earth missing from a Propane HVAC explosion, yet.

Old refrigerators used sulfur based gas 80 years ago!

Your system has a magic low side pressure happy number. IIRC it is around 37.5 PSI with an average heat load. I can almost see it on the 1978 Snap-On air conditioning machine we used to use.
 
#22 ·
I had my 93 FWB converted over a couple of months ago. After a week it wasn't running as cold any longer so I took it back to the shop. The tech found the leak - low side retrofit fitting - replaced it, put a vacuum on the system and then refilled it. I got a can of AC PRO and hit it a week later and it has been cold city ever since. I am curious as to how Duracool works - their web page is interesting.
 
#23 ·
I converted my '78 Deville from FREON-12 to R-134A myself with a conversion kit 4 years ago with no problems.
When I bought it, all the freon was gone from the system anyway and I did`nt want to pay the way too high prices to refill
it with 12.
It does`nt blow as cold as Freon-12 did, but it`s good enough.
 
#25 ·
A good shop can get an R134a conversion to work just as well as the original R12 system. Here in FL it gets to 95 F + every day and I can get 45 deg F air out of the system after a few minutes. Maybe my ginormous original condenser helps, but it is just as good as when it was using R12.

What you might need is a new POA / Suction throttling valve, etc (up next to the evaporator), most likely an new a receiver/drier (usually by the condenser), plus the fittings, a good flush and the proper oil.

That and a tech that knows what he is doing...
 
#24 ·
Measure Low side pressure when the car is running AC is on Max cold, pressure around 25 to 35 PSI on low port it will vary a bit. this will give an evaporator temperature around -2C to 5C you do not want to frost
up the evaporator
but you want it as close to 0C as possible for maximum cooling. the compressor motor should cycle as the temp and pressure go lower. then when compressor stop temp and pressure will rise and cycle again.
Accumulator will capture any excess liquid refrigerant and keep it from getting back to the compressor.
 
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