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towing capacity after modifications

1K views 9 replies 3 participants last post by  shrike77 
#1 ·
Hi guys,
How much should I be able to tow after I all I did to the car? I am asking this because I start playing with the idea of installing a towing hitch and I'd like to know your opinions.
So it is a 1987 Brougham.
I have the front stock sway bar, 8.5 rear end from a 9C1 round Caprice with the disc brakes and with the sway bar, Eaton posi (not sure that changes anything for towing), 3:73 gears, 5.3 Vortec engine, 4L60e transmission from a 1999 Silverado.

Suspension wise I have MOOG springs (about 600 lbs*in at the front and 186 lbs*in cargo coils at the back. Shocks are Bilsteins.
I have an electric fan and 3 row aluminum radiator

I'd like to think that I shouldd be able to tow 5000-6000 lbs. I don't know if it will happen but it would be good to have the capability, sometimes you need to buy materials for work around the house, or buy a new project car:)

For that much weight I should install a transmission cooler I believe.
Is it a PITA to install a transmission temp gauge?

And the real question is about tires. I have stock 215/75R15 tires. I think they are rated about 1742 lbs. Is that enough or should the tires be also upgraded.

I also have Aluminum wheels but I read somewhere that Aluminum wheels are also a limit. I think it is better to have steel wheels.
 
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#2 ·
The tires should be fine. I've got 215/75/15's on my Dakota which is rated at over 6000lbs in towing.
When you try to tow more than the weight of your vehicle you should have an electric brake controller set up. You don't want to be going down hill around a curve and have your load push your rear end out.
 
#4 ·
It depends on where you're going. Some states require any trailer with a loaded weight of over 1500 lbs to have electric brakes. I certainly wouldn't want to go on the highway or in a mountainous region without electric brakes if I was towing more than 3000lbs.

And make sure you get a frame hitch, not a bumper hitch.

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Oh, and also be aware of the weight restrictions on the different classes of balls and hitches. The lower class ones are only rated for 3500lbs
 
#5 ·
Thanks a lot for these tips. Very useful to know.
I don't have a trailer. I was thinking of renting if I ever need one.
I would get a frame hitch. I think it should also stiffen up the rear of the chassis. I'll look around for pricing

And yeah I'll check about all the rating classes. That is one thing I wasn't sure about.
I'll do a search on the electric brakes
 
#6 ·
7000 with a weight distributing hitch, brake controller, and a trailer with brakes. However, some states are very strict about towing, and won't let you tow above factory rating no matter what you've done.

Here's Convert2Diesel's 94 R1P car, with V4P options, and 3.73 gears bringing home a little project for me.

 
#10 ·
I started looking at electric brake controllers (proportional) and class 3 hitches to have an idea of pricing. It gives me an idea of what is needed and costs implied. But I think it will have to wait until next winter or spring until I`ll have the money for it.

Thanks for the info you provided
 
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