Gotta grab the cabbage! Not always harvest time!
Gotta grab the cabbage! Not always harvest time!
Does anyone have ideas on how to revive this piece of dash trim?
I got the angle grinder out and worked on the trunk lid:
Its going to get a dose of bondo....actually what preferences do any of you have for body filler?
Hit those with a rust converter before you bondo. I use Bondo, but I'm a hack, so see what others who do this more say.
Those extreme close-ups have an artistic beauty to them....until you realize what you are looking at, then, not so much...
The dash I am stumped by.
Possibly use a syringe to put a dab of glue under wood grain and tack it back down? You can get nice ones for injecting marinade in meat. I would try Weldbond. It is a white glue, looks like Elmers school glue, but is much stronger. Very low volatility, unlikely to damage plastic or film. For the chrome edges, I bought chrome pinstripe tape from a model store. Comes in widths under a sixteenth of an inch. http://www.modelexpo-online.com/search.asp?SKW=cat1_bt
Would work to restore edges.
Otherwise, strip it all off and paint until you can find some at a junk yard? Post up some photos of all you need, full view and I can check when I go to my local yard.
Keep on plugging away at it!
I noticed that my car's faux wood trim had a bit of that plastic/vinyl trim coating starting to come loose, so I went to Home Depot and got a really liquid-like type of glue. I wanted something that wasn't quite as viscous so that I could dab a drop on a pin and slide it underneath there. Unfortunately I can't remember what that glue was called. Yours looks like it's bubbling up a lot more, so you'll have to be a bit creative in how to secure all of that down. Good luck!
2 body guys I know recommended evercoat rage xtreme for its ease of application and sandability. It only comes in a gallon though. I bought evercoat rage (also recommended, but not as highly due to being slightly harder to sand)
I've also personally used the Evercoat Rage Xtreme and it is great. It sands very easily, and smooths out very nicely with a good smooth edge. Most body shops I've seen use it. It is going to cost twice as much as the cheaper stuff you'll find at Autozone, but I would buy it because is such a good product. Working with a top quality product will help make up for your lack of experience. Body work is like any other car repair- the more you do it, the easier it gets. Good luck.
I just use whatever I can find at the parts store or walmart really...usually it's bondo brand or some off brand.
Ordered my Evercoat Extreme filler.
I have unplugged the tail light assemblies and cleaned up the lenses although I think the reversing lenses maybe too far gone./ Gosh replacement reversing lenses are expensive!
But now I have a wee problem....how the hell does one get the old bulbs out of the holders? I'm reticent about using force as it may break the glass of the bulbs...any ideas? The reversing bulbs were shot but as they are at 90degrees they were easy not so the others that are at an angle and impossible to press and turn......
I'm also looking to replace some of the wiring...as a fellow enthusiast said, "that wiring was never designed to last 35 years!".
I'm certainly no expert when it comes to electronics so I am on the look out for a good auto electrician in my area...Nashville.
Whouaaaaaaa ! bravo très beau travail
Good job very nice car..
I'm pretty sure you just push in and then twist the bulbs and they should come out
Yes, but these bulbs have been in their respective sockets for some 30 odd years and they are stuck!
Yeah dosed the units with WD penetrating oil well already..still stuck. I think I will put the whole unit into a bath of degreaser and then spray with WD penetrating oil. Otherwise I'm going to have to try and get the plugs off the back...not an easy task. I've cleaned up the rear light lenses and they are looking really nice. I would like to replace the reversing light lenses as they are really 'foggy' and one of them is cracked, I will try the defogger kit on them but I think I may try a few parts shops to see if they are available and at what cost. Its a radiator flush today and then anti freeze installed. I love this forum...its great that like thinking Caddy fans can impart knowledge, experience and help to each other here. Thanks to the moderators and web page gurus. Rock on!
Hi - I assume you've got the bulbs out by now, but if not....
Only way is brute force - had to do the same with mine on my 76 CDV.
Break the glass out. Put heaps of WD40 or similar in around the base.
Get some long nosed pliers and bend the brass case of the bulb in on both sides so that the bayonets pull away from the slots in the side of the holder.
Then pull it all out.
Put more lubricant in cos the base of the holder is spring loaded and seizes up - then push it in and out till its all free.
Hel;lo Chaps, Sorry its been such a crazy winter here in Nashville with record lows of 20 below!
To continue the above:
The side front and rear (vertical) lights reinstalled. The indicators are working but the flasher is not, the indicator lights staying on when the indicator arm is used for left or right. I presume this requires a new flasher unit?
The headlamps have new sealed beam units but are not working. Could be the inline fuse (why?) which we will check this weekend. The bulbs have been extracted form the stop light and reversing light holders and new bulbs will be installed. The good news is that after I got the insurance and we stuck the antique plate on the back, we ran Blueboy around the block and it felt pretty good :-) I had forgotten how big this vehicle is and the limited visibility. Next will be checking of the brake drums at the rear and some fresh pads on the front discs. We will also check the diff this weekend and make sure its topped up. Mechanically everything feels fine, starting up easily. The heater is not working nor is the A/C. Will have to get an expert on that but no shortage around here in Tennessee. I'm not worried about the paint yet as the car is solid and no rust at the bottom and around the wheel arches. I want to get the mechanics solid first so there are no driving or reliability problems. If anyone has anything to add to my list below please don't hesitate to post.
Check Diff. Top up or renew.
Check brakes Front & Back.
Renew front pads (I took off a wheel, they need renewing)
Check rear shoes an renew if necessary.
Top up or renew brake fluid.
Renew Freeze plugs.
Remove, clean and check plugs. (New plug wires installed just before storage)
Check all seals and renew where necessary. (Some people think this to be very important !)
Drain Tans fluid, renew filter and refill.
Drain engine oil renew filter and refill
Remove wheels, shotblast and paint.
Rock on, Tim