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1981 Brougham Project

29K views 185 replies 29 participants last post by  Angry Matt 
#1 ·
A few weeks ago I bought another '81 Brougham. It's nowhere near as nice as my other one, but I got it for $800 and it's black. I've been wanting a triple black for a while, but this has the wine interior and the roof to match, now I'm over black interior, much happier with this. It's hasn't been on the road since '08 and needed brake lines, fuel lines, headliner and a windshield. I'm done the lines and have already done the front suspension and am waiting on rear shocks. I pulled the rear out today to swap it with the limited slip I've been holding on to. I'm sticking with the stock 2.41, the 3.23 I have is too snappy. I want to be able to cruise and drive the highway without topping out at 75 like the coupe was. I'm never going to race this car, but my mind changes like the wind. Either way, it should be on the ground by this weekend and ready to hit the road. The guy that owned it last painted something silver next to it and didn't bother covering the car, so it's covered in overspray. The fillers are busted of course and the tires are dryrotted. Where I'm confused is the route to go cosmetically. I've always wanted to do '90 exterior and make it look stock with the red center hubcaps, just lowered. Or, I've got a little collection of aftermarket accessories that I'm looking at. I've got a huge castle grill, 30 spoke Cragars, a sixth wheel and bumperettes. I'm leaning toward the '90 look because that's been a much longer desire of mine and I don't fit the style of the latter. Plus who needs the extra weight. I'll get pics up as soon as I can and keep updating. This is going to be a long project since I have limited time to work on it and a lot of work to do, I've only scratched the surface with what needs to get done. Any suggestions are appreciated.
 
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#54 ·
Matt,

I think you'll be happy with the TBI man. You can use a different ecm and work with a chip tuner like sinister performance. I'm running multiport EFI on my 472 that I put in my 78 fleetwood. I'm using a GM 1227730 ECM with Bosch red top 30lb injectors. The car runs great and i'm running on the original calibration chip. What's cool with the EFI and with the distributor being the 7-pin is there are no weights or springs to wear out and everything can be set on the ECM. The distributor i'm using is from an 81 cadillac so hang on to that distributor if you decide to go TBI. I'm sure TBI would be nice to and less hastle with changing manifolds. You could use the stock carb manifold from your 472 and use a GM 454 Throttlebody. I can try to find the popular ECM's used for TBI but what is great is you could probably pick one up from a junkyard for about 20 bucks. Moates.net has a lot of different adapters so you can put a reprogramable chip in it. On top of that you could use a knock sensor from a 454 so nothing detonates on the motor. Those Crager spokes look great by the way. If you got any questions about the TBI stuff I can try to find some info on them for you. There really isn't a lot to them. What I would do is run to the junk yard and find a 90-92 Brougham and pull the TBI harness from it since everything will be the right length for your motor. Then strip the harness down to only the TBI stuff and drop it in your car.
 
#55 ·
Forgot to comment on your car not starting. Check and see if you're getting spark. If you are then move on to the fuel system. If you're getting spark check the fuel pressure with a guage. The most common problems with fuel injected cars is either the fuel pump is shot, or the regulator is bad and leaking so it never allows the fuel pressure to build up enough for the tbi. It couldnt hurt changing the filter either.
 
#56 ·
I came out to mess with it and the car started right up no problems. I'm hoping this was just a fluke from it running out of gas. I'm going to let it be for now and see if it happens again. I was considering keeping the tbi in the car, but again I'm lost when it comes to that. If I can use the edelbrock manifold I have, that would be ideal. Other than ease of starting and stuff, will I benefit in performance?
 
#57 ·
So the original motor in the 81 was fuel injected? If so, I think it will need an oil pressure sensor to tell the ECM that theres enough oil pressure to start the car. The same thing happened to me, it ran for a day, then it would only start for a second or two and then cutoff. There should be a fuel pump test wire by the drivers side close to the firewall. Mine was either blue, green or orange, I'll have to look. I have that hooked up to an ignition terminal at the fuse box.
 
#58 ·
On most cars the oil pressure switch is just a backup if your fuel pump relay goes bad. If that's the case check your fuel pump relay and make sure its not bad. To be honest it's really not that bad. A lot of people are intimidated at first but it really isn't too bad. If you have a diagram it helps to get better understanding of things. There are even some places that will make harnesses and label everything so it's even easier to hook up.
 
#59 ·
Usually you will get better performance because everything can be programmed for optimal timing curve and injector pulse. You'll also get better gas mileage since it's vaporizing the fuel. Quadrajets are still pretty efficient carbs though. You can even run a throttlebody on your edelbrock manifold. If you do carb I would just keep all the wiring in a loop incase you change your mind down the road. You may even be able to use all of your stock wiring, just use a 454 throtlebody with it since the injectors are bigger. The ECM will use the timing curve for the 368 which should be a lot similar to the 472.
 
#60 ·
I'm going to the junk yard anyway on monday. So I need wiring harnesses from a 90's fwb and a 454 throttle body to start. What do I look for, just a large GMC of the late 80's early 90's? One without all the sensors? I looked a little on ebay to get an idea of what they look like. Even if I don't get the ideal one now, I'd like to get one to get the car running and I can upgrade later. The car's been starting all day so hopefully it was vapor or something. There had to be air in the lines, I replaced a large section of them. I don't know, just wishful thinking.
 
#61 ·
Well to be honest you may be able to just use your existing harness for now. If you replace the 368 throttlebody with the 454 throttlebody and hook up all of the sensors you can trick the ecm into thinking its still running the 368. To keep the computer from trying to kick into v6 or v4 mode there is a wire that you can disconnect from the transmission. It connects to the same plug the kickdown switch does. Otherwise ya you could grab the harness from a 90-92 brougham that used the 305 and 350 tbi motors. The 454 would come from an 80's/early 90's pickup truck or suburban. You might have better luck searching car-part.com for it if you cant find it at your junkyard. What's nice is since your 81 originally came with tbi you're all set with the fuel pump and return lines so you wont really have to make many modifications.
 
#62 ·
I had an awesome day at the junkyard on monday. Three 90's (one complete), but not one with a useable wiring harness. But I did get a complete header with lights and grill and a set of taillights and also enough moldings to start making my two door rocker panels. I am going for the complete outer 90 look so I'm hoarding parts for now. Also got an almost perfect set of rear fillers. Didn't even make it to the truck section, but I got a buddy looking for the 454 tbi. I'm almost done removing the overspray from one side of the car and it looks like the paint is actually going to clean up pretty decent. If I can get four sides of pictures that look good I'm going for antique plates which will allow the car to go uninspected and unemmissed (making up my own vocabulary), then I can do whatever, as long as it appears stock for the most part. This weekend I plan to get most of the car cleaned and the rear sway bar in. All the bolts snapped as I was removing it to drop the rear so I had to get new mounts in the yard also. I'm putting the hearse sway bar I've had in since it's about three times the thickness of the stock one. And again, the car wont start. I put a new air pump belt on today because it was shot and slipping tremendously, tried to test it and nothing but cranks. Started a bunch yesterday when we were checking the belts. Is it worth it to swap the distributor? Or maybe just the module? I have a spare I think. I don't know what could be causing it to not start every once in a while.
 
#63 ·
I started messing with the distributor the other day and found the ground wire to the coil was barely snug. It's been starting fine ever since, although someone did strip one of the bolts that holds down the cap and another one is missing. So eventually I'm going to have to break the cap off when I go to replace the distributor, but it runs fine for now. They also must have broken a plug wire since I had one rotten 7mm and the rest nice 8.5's. My buddy made it over with his polisher today and he got a good bit done. I got the rear fillers on, one front, and the new trunk lock emblem rivited in place. Got the new(ish) power window motor in and fixed the passenger side mirror (which are electric). Also put a new hood on that has no rot holes. Now with the paint cleaning up so good, I'm having issues with 90ing it. Here's some fresh pics. (The roof's not polished yet).


 
#64 ·
Angry Matt said:
I started messing with the distributor the other day and found the ground wire to the coil was barely snug. It's been starting fine ever since, although someone did strip one of the bolts that holds down the cap and another one is missing. So eventually I'm going to have to break the cap off when I go to replace the distributor, but it runs fine for now. They also must have broken a plug wire since I had one rotten 7mm and the rest nice 8.5's. My buddy made it over with his polisher today and he got a good bit done. I got the rear fillers on, one front, and the new trunk lock emblem rivited in place. Got the new(ish) power window motor in and fixed the passenger side mirror (which are electric). Also put a new hood on that has no rot holes. Now with the paint cleaning up so good, I'm having issues with 90ing it. Here's some fresh pics. (The roof's not polished yet).
I wouldn't 90 it. That car is sharp as is. It cleaned up nicely.
 
#68 ·
That is one sexy car! I agree, keep it as it is! To my eye, you're taking a nice, sleek, original looking car that says classic Frank Sinatra and messing with him by making him wear clothes from the closet of Liberace or Elvis in his later years to create that overdone 90-92 look. I know, opinions are like rear ends, everyone has one and most stink. :)
 
#69 ·
This car is quickly turning into a nightmare. I've got it all cleaned up and polished, later red center wire hubcaps and enduro 75's. Got some great pics, but I can't get into my photobucket account, so whatever. I drove it to work twice this week then moved it to wash and take pics and it wouldn't start again. Got a distributor code from the cc, so went to mess with the distributor. It was so corroded the cap wouldn't even come off. Long story short, broke it into pieces just to get it out, plopped the newer one in and went for a ride (removed the a/c in the process). Car died about 1/4 mile up from the house, just shut down. Cranked and cranked, then stepped on the parking brake and starts right up. Realized the other night when it died after work I was under the steering column. There must be a loose wire or relay or something. I'm thinking fuel pump relay? It looks like someone engineered some of their own wiring under there, so this might get messy. Any other ideas on what would kill the engine that's near the parking brake pedal?

And was anyone aware that they don't make the Enduro tires in ww anymore??
 
#71 ·
I spent a few hours rewiring the mess and cleaning up the solder. At some point (nothing that I did) the car lost all power. It's like the battery is disconnected. The fuse box had jumpers and external fuses wired in. He had something (can't remember what exactly) ones a 75 amp fuse with 12awg wire snipped from 18awg when the shop manual called for a 10 amp. Four foot of wire to a switch from the parking brake pedal to the steering column. I don't understand why people can't just do it right the first time. Whatever. Tomorrow I'm going to start testing for power. We'll see how this turns out.
 
#72 ·
Man, you are patient! By the way, the car really looks great. I'm curious-what is with the 90's look? I guess I could understand it back when these were new cars, and the 90's look would update it. But now, 80's or 90's, it is still an old Cadillac. My vote is to leave it as is. I think you have a very stylish and sharp car as is.
 
#73 ·


Here it is cleaned up, all the fillers replaced and new wheel/hupcap/tire combo. I'm not 90'ing it for now or maybe ever, I think I'm over that. Now for the problems. The battery was drained flat which doesn't make sense because it's a fairly new battery. The blower was running on it's own so I unplugged that, charged, started and timed the car. Shut it down to hang the wiring back up and the battery was dead in about 15min of the doors being open (I mean dead). Its on the charger now to see if it will hold. I tried to pull the codes, but it flickered 88 and all the dots lit and everything read 6's. Never had that happen. I'm starting to think the hole below the windshield (above the ECM) may have done more then just wet the carpet. Is there a way to test the computer?
 
#109 ·


What a beautiful coupe, I like this styling a lot and unmistakable Cadillac design . I must add, I like your stance a lot too , that car is a diamond that blinds other stones from its glare
 
#75 ·
Man does that look nice!! When I get to painting my 78 Coupe (next year or two) I am doing exactly what you have done; stock with the same wide white walls and the newer style wire hubcaps(both of which I already have). I think that is all these cars need. As to the 90's thing- I think the older 80's style is more classic. Almost the whole bumper chrome is visible, and it looks massive. The 90's style has the huge impact strips, which I don't find as attractive. Just my 2 cents.
 
#76 ·
You may well be looking at ECM issues as well as the others. I had the ECM rebuilt on my 81 and it was the best money I could have spent on her. It runs like new and has been a dream to drive ever since. Get the #'s off your ECM and post them. It will be a 5120 or a 4760. I have a rebuilt 4760 if that would work for yours. The performance will go way up as well. Have you checked and adjusted the TPS to specs. , a finicky job but makes such a difference. NICE looking ride by the way.
 
#77 ·
After the wiring fiasco of last week it seems to be running well. I properly timed the car to spec and that really did it, but... now the no charge light is on. It brightens when you give it gas so assuming the alternator is working, not to mention it hasn't died. What should I be looking for in the wires to get this light out? I was thinking of just scratching off the "no" and using it as my "charge light" to let everyone know that the alternator is working, like the everything is ok alarm.

And the car is now road legal via antique tags. Apparently you can get them right over the counter if you drive out to Harrisburg. Much nicer then the two week wait.
 
#78 ·
Angry Matt said:
After the wiring fiasco of last week it seems to be running well. I properly timed the car to spec and that really did it, but... now the no charge light is on. It brightens when you give it gas so assuming the alternator is working, not to mention it hasn't died. What should I be looking for in the wires to get this light out? I was thinking of just scratching off the "no" and using it as my "charge light" to let everyone know that the alternator is working, like the everything is ok alarm.

And the car is now road legal via antique tags. Apparently you can get them right over the counter if you drive out to Harrisburg. Much nicer then the two week wait.
One of the internal diodes in your alternator died. Same thing happened with the alt on my 307. Still charged fine and everything, just the light stayed on
 
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