Just picked up a new 84 Deville De'elegance. Blue on blue with the soft cloth seats. The outside looks good as does the inside. It has 142K with a bad tranny and a motor that wont idle down. I only had it running for 10 minutes but the temp light came on. I looked under the hood and saw some melted wiring and some small mods but it all looks intacked.
Completely stock interior looks to have survived very well with the only defect being the locks not working.
Then comes the bad parts. The rust on the drivers floor board, its the only part of the floor board with rust
There is a rust hole in this fender thats hard to see. You can see the tire, just not in the pic.
Never did a floor pan though, are they a pain to deal with? I havent had it on the lift yet but the rest of the frame looks good. The plan would be to switch over the complete drivetrain from the 90 to this 84, everything except the interior mods, I like the interior as is. I would need to put some gauges somewhere though, any ideas?
It is the flexplate to crankshaft bolts, they are loose and the flexplate moves back and forth a little. Just glad to see its not another bearing. Thanks again.
What a pain huh? I am always scared of that happening. I always loctite them and torque them extra tight. You must have most of the bugs out of it now so it's time to enjoy it.
So I'm having trouble with the battery setup I have in the Coupe. I'm running two 78 series batteries in parrallel and they keep draining. This did happened when I had them in the 90 but not as fast. I just got two new batteries under warranty so I dont want these to go bad again. This is the third set of batteries(thanks to the warranty) and I hate going out to the car to see the dome lights not come on, its upsetting. Do I have these wired correctly? Batteries running parrallel, positive to positive-negative to negative. Alt wire going to one battery. One battery powers the starter, one powers the acc terminal. Should I isolate the batteries and run an alt wire to both? After charging the batteries, the car will have power from anywhere from a day to a week. Sometimes when I turn the key off, a couple dummy lights will blink and drain the battery. I can cycle the key on and off and the blinking dummy lights will go off. Got me thinking I should look into my ignition now but is the dual battery setup right?
Why not just run one battery? You can get battery isolators from an RV shop, but you really shouldn't need two batteries. One good 78 is more than enough.
It starts a little better with two batteries. When I use one battery, it has a hard time cranking it over and sometimes dies before it starts. Maybe I should try one battery and sees if it drains.
There should be no problem starting it with one (good) battery. Even with the coil disconnected, it should crank for a lonnnnggg time before depleting the battery. Check the alternator output, and the battery cables and connections.
Take it in and get it load tested. Check the battery connections on both ends, and the grounds, too. May as well get the battery load tested while you're there. Charge it up completely before going.
The one have test with the car running, with loads on and off and at high and low rpm...connected at the battery. It prints out the volts with and without load and a ripple chart. Think I should still take it off and bring it in?
That's a really nice ride csbuckn! I have a 1980 coupe deville with the 368...no where near the power of the 500 but love the car! mine is the same color as yours with the same interior!! I do have a question for you...i'm looking to upgrade my suspension system as well so I'm going to start with upgrading the springs and shocks. Did the impala SS springs fit easily or did you have any trouble? do you know of anyone that used the eibach lowered springs? i'm still debating whether I want to go with the slammed look but worried that I will have trouble driving over speed bumps and getting into my driveway since its on a bit of an incline...
Thanks. The Impala springs went in like the stock ones. Same indexing and spot as the stock ones, no mods needed. The shocks have to come out so you might as well replace them with Bilsteins or Monroe Severe Service ones. That will stiffen up the front end pretty good. I think Angry Matt has the Eibachs and I think his car looks better but I like the lowered look.
Never had them but I hear good things about them. Probably worth the money if you plan on hitting the track. For street driving, the Bilsteins are probably enough.
So, the deal is done on the body. Dont know when I will pic it up but he said I can keep it there. The dude that did all the work is a beast on body work. He documented the build on LIL...100+ pages. I couldnt even read it all, my eyes were hurting. He shaved the wiper setup and had trouble with the quarter windows.
So, the deal is done on the body. Dont know when I will pic it up but he said I can keep it there. The dude that did all the work is a beast on body work. He documented the build on LIL...100+ pages. I couldnt even read it all, my eyes were hurting. He shaved the wiper setup and had trouble with the quarter windows.
I traded a 98 Accord with 228K miles(with NO problems) for a brand new body for my coupe. The extra mile dude went to get this body right was amazing but he shaved the mounting area for the wiper motor and welded in some Brougham quarter window mounts or something. He deleted the heat and AC box at the firewall but I can live with that. The link above is to his project thread on LayitLow.
I went through the thread quickly, (as possible:lol and he really has a lot of love/work/money in that body. You would have paid a fortune to have done what he did. Especially to the quality he did everything.
I slowed down and paid attention when I got to the window problems. It appeared from the last posts on it he had it right and it worked out to be exactly the same as the brougham he measured against.
The re-positioning of the wipers might be a problem, but if you find one in a junkyard you could cut out the assm. and use the sheet metal as a drilling template. Worst case you could cut and weld it in if the smoothing changed the positioning of it.
Plenty of time to figure it out. Just gonna be great to see you get it home and start on it.
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Related Threads
?
?
?
?
?
Cadillac Owners Forum
4.8M posts
369.7K members
Since 2002
Cadillac Forums is the perfect place to go to talk about your favorite Caddys including the ATS, CTS, SRX, Escalade, LYRIQ, Vistiq, concept and future Cadillac models.