since several people asked me too...ill start from the beginning, its in progress so as I do more work ill update it.
this is my 1st time seeing the car when a co-worker found it after i told him a few different models i was interested in. took a month to get in touch with him cuz no one lived at the house.
was really dirty from sitting all them years after the owner passed away. the uncle didnt want to fool with it and it wouldnt start. he said make an offer. I made an offer for $1000 how it sits with 16,495 miles on the odometer, he accepted and i towed it home a few days later. dropped the fuel tank and put a new fuel pump in, cleaned the injectors and it fired right up the first day i got it home.
then i gave it a good cleaning inside and out
started with the chrome rocker moldings
cleaned the factory dry-rotted tires and rolled them for a few months till i had a blow-out
carpet was kinda funky so i pulled it out and cleaned it, new jute and it put it back in, good time to run some wires for the radio and future stereo
cleaned up shortly after i got it, sitting next to my lil mini truck
still had the other guys handicap plate
looks pretty nice on the underside
not long after getting the car I had to change the tires and A/C compressor was leaking out the seal.
First Day of driving it i had to clean the engine. this is what it looks like 365 a year. gets a lil dusty but i just clean it again
nice all day at the show, left and stopped at the store and cranked it up...took a short video. then started talking with a buggy boy...songs switched and the next song wasd pounding way harder, i was going to redue the video but rain started falling so i closed up and went home
the next video i do tomorrow will show the 1/4 panels flexing still with the box in the back seat area
still havent stopped to get a new video but i have demoed it for about 6 ppl and they all said its too loud, 1 person wouldnt get in the car and my neighbor didnt last long in it at all
the console was flopping around and i noticed the gauge a lil loose, pulled it down and was missing a nut, found it in the headliner and put a lil lock-tite on both nuts
its also blowing every bit off dust and dirt thats between the headliner and roof onto my dash
WoW, That awesome!!!! You're gonna disassemble your whole car with this system. I wonder, if none of the stereo components laid down, how long would it take to completely disassemble a car from the vibrations and pressure??
well some bolts from the factory have a loc-tite on them so not everything would come apart. but i have to make a quick pass on the dash and if i find anything lose then a dab of loc-tite and it should be good for a long time.
i some how vibrated one of the speaker wires off the tweeter in the drivers door but that went back on quick
and if your ever in louisiana mainly the new orleans area anytime or mississippi for scraping the coast in june, cruising the coast in october let me know ill demo for ya
....if your ever in louisiana mainly the new orleans area anytime or mississippi for scraping the coast in june, cruising the coast in october let me know ill demo for ya
well my friend lives in pensacola, FL after his air force base closed down in panama city so i may have to make a trip to florida to visit him one day
i got the subs a lil hot tonight but we have a lutheran convention in town and you wouldnt believe the girls and a few guys getting down to the bass, had to pound for them...i think ima go hit on a few tomorrow after a few drinks
whenever your ready, let me know...businesses are booming here, all the tax breaks they give you plus stuff is cheap. its just getting better and better, especially b/c ppl are starting to take over blighted properties and refurbish them.
New orleans in the last few years has claimed the title HOLLYWOOD SOUTH, they are filming movies everywhere and its not uncommon like in california to see top notch celebrities on the street, but unlike california, ppl dont bother them. were to busy drinking and treat them like everyone else
we can meet up at harrahs casino, top shelf drinks on me, located on canal street by the french quarter, 3 blocks from bourban street
checked online and found there was a 94 fleetwood that arrived at the pull-a-part wednesday, grabbed some tools and headed over, about 15 mile drive....not a single part that i needed was there or not broken/destroyed....wasted trips suck
pulled the amp side panels out and tossed them, mounted the highs amps by the sub amps...nothing permanent just secure right now.
im going to fiberglass a trim panel so you cant see in the trunk, i may redue the amps and batteries to be viewed through a plexiglass window, i may not, also have the tank to figure it, we'll see.
also thinking of a possible new box later one. push it farther back and wall it to the roof so i can have some more seat room, all in the future.
and the other day a new casualty of vibration...i seen my trunk jacked up on the pass side. the bolt from the actuator on the hinge came completly out
I'm not a wire expert, but their stuff seems to be really nice. They claim 250 amps capacity over 25 feet for the 0-gauge. I used it to install the 2nd battery in my limo and had to run a lot of their 0-gauge stuff. It bends around places that 0-gauge shouldn't. It's amazing, and like you said it's reasonably priced.
I have a question about the Dynamat....my lower rocker molding on the 1/4s rattles something fierce when I turn up the bass. I don't have anything crazy like you, but it's annoying to hear the trim rattling. If I line the trunk with Dynamat, will that help? I just have a couple of cheap 12" subs in a simple box back there.
few updates, i really need to upgrade the alternator, too much voltage drop when the bass is cranked...not good
i found out a rag does a nice trick, money does not...sucked my $10 all the way in, barely got it back
and i had a shake in the steering for awhile. i knew i had to change the drag link b/c it was getting worn but not really bad...finally get under there today and of course, tierods inner and outter need replacing, the idler arm has too much play not to change and the upper balljoints will need changing soon, plus an alignment...just more money
Do you have/believe in Caps? The $10 thing is funny!!LOL Yeah unfortunately, our passion for our cars and the cars themselves never actually get tired of consuming ALL the money we can throw at them. Id rather have this habit than another!
i had to locate the money with my phone taking pics, then couldnt reach it. had to swing a rag in there and drag it out. and power caps, i had them, they arent for my application. i just need an alternator that can keep up.
i think the stocks are what around 140amps, when i get money and some downtime, im going to send my stock one to a local friend, i should e able to get it around 220-250amps, ill be happy with that. then it will have plenty power to keep the batteries and .5ohm wiring happy...hopefully
tomorrow im going to order the other suspension parts and hopefully get them on at lunch time, except for the balljoints, drop it off for alignment and ready to ride thurs,fri and saturday
i just looked at the autozone website, all the ones they sold were 140amp, dont know which number on the sticker is for the alternator...either way everything is upgraded except for the alternator...but 220-250amp is about what i need
got my idler arm in today, had to get duralast tierods as autozone was the best price and had them in stock, napa were i got the idler arm could go pick the tierods up wanted almost $80 more ...ill get the balljoints another time
so instead of getting out at lunch time replacing everything im still waiting for autozone to deliver the tierods. after work fun now
knukoncepts ultraflex from doing my research for one is Oxygen free copper, bigger than anything on the market and has some of the highest strand counts and is cheaper than anyone...thats my wire source for anything i do
and yea dynamatting the 1/4 panels, youll tighten the metal up so it will reduce vibration, on the bottom of the chrome molding there is a hole in that panel near the fender skirt. run a screw through there and secure it to the body, it tightens the molding up and prevents some vibration
with my big ass monsters in the cabin, it still flexes my 1/4s and vibrates the molding s
and yea dynamatting the 1/4 panels, youll tighten the metal up so it will reduce vibration, on the bottom of the chrome molding there is a hole in that panel near the fender skirt. run a screw through there and secure it to the body, it tightens the molding up and prevents some vibration
Thanks. I'll try that. I noticed that my LH molding has a screw through the bottom of it. And it doesn't rattle (much). I'll have to do the same thing on the right.
finished the tierods, idler arm and drag link when i got home from work, didnt take much time. then later i went out and removed the front wheels, checked the bearings, had a squeak in the brakes so a lil brake lube on the back of the pads....put it back together and just need an alignment now
got the tires pretty damn straight, drives straight but the wheel is to the right a lil bit so ill let them correct that and get it aligned on a machine.
dropped the car off for an alignment this morning, waiting for them to tell me its done...almost didnt happen. my friend who is doing it and only 2 ppl i trust to do it, tells me we cant do it with my rims. they dont have deep wnough sensors for the machine. in the end i had to pull the skirts off and all 4 2 prong caps on the rims so the sensors would fit. when i get the car back i have to remove all the wheels just to put the caps back on, then reinstall them. but its worth it
Ive never even thought about alignment being a problem with these rims. Good to know, when I do mine Ill remove the caps before I take it in I guess.
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