1984 Coupe DeVille Engine Swap! - Page 33
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RWD 19xx-1984 DeVille and Fleetwood,
1985-1996 Fleetwood and Brougham Forum Discussion, 1984 Coupe DeVille Engine Swap! in Past Cadillac Vehicle Discussion; Originally Posted by greencadillacmatt .........by the time this project is done. ....no comment. Consider it your Christmas gift from me....
  1. #481
    talismandave's Avatar
    talismandave is offline Cadillac Owners Master
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    Re: 1984 Coupe DeVille Engine Swap!

    Quote Originally Posted by greencadillacmatt View Post
    .........by the time this project is done.
    ....no comment.


    Consider it your Christmas gift from me.
    77CDV and greencadillacmatt like this.

  2. #482
    greencadillacmatt's Avatar
    greencadillacmatt is offline Cadillac Owners Connoisseur
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    Re: 1984 Coupe DeVille Engine Swap!

    Quote Originally Posted by talismandave View Post
    ....no comment.
    Hey hey hey, I didn't say WHEN the project would be done. (But I am going to make a final push this spring in hopes of cruising it on Power Tour. If not, I still have my Challenger for that!)
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  3. #483
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    Re: 1984 Coupe DeVille Engine Swap!

    Hey guys, I've been looking at alternators for my '84. I don't know if my car came from the factory with the 80 amp unit or the 100 amp unit. I would like to run a 100 amp unit, just in case I need the extra juice at some point. The alternator on my engine is a factory 78 amp unit from a 1983 Olds Delta 88 that was part of the accessory drive system from that car. (I used an '83 307's accessory drive and accessories for my 350.) I've been looking at new 100 amp performance alternators from Summit Racing tonight, and I just need to know if one of these would be a good idea: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/su...a-88/year/1983

    They are single wire units, and they have the proper clocking and fit for the 307 alternator bracket. Are single wire alternators hard to install into a car? Sorry if that sounds dumb of me, but I've never put a different model alternator into a different model car. (I've only ever replaced stock units with stock units.) Thanks in advance guys. I figured I'd ask around so I don't end up ordering the wrong thing and then have to send it back.

  4. #484
    The-Dullahan is offline Cadillac Owners Master
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    Re: 1984 Coupe DeVille Engine Swap!

    There are no dumb questions. Just dumb people (not you, Matt)

    Dumb people go ahead and do something wrong (like pour sandblasting sand into their intake to increase performance) and want answers as to why it doesn't work.

    Okay, installation of a One-Wire Alternator.

    That is very simple. The only wire you need to run is the single wire to the positive terminal of your battery off of the positive post on the back of the alternator. You would no longer require the wiring harness. HOWEVER. The reason why these alternators are so popular with hotrodders is because you can remove the wiring harness, and we all know how much hotrodders like less clutter in their engine bays and dashboards. What about dashboards? Well, without that harness plugged in, your NO CHARGE light will not be functional. This means that if the alternator experiences a problem or catastrophic failure (I will get to that in a moment) there will be no immediate indication.

    That is not necessarily a bad thing, just something to keep in mind.

    Next is amperage. My alternator was actually custom made for my car and runs ridiculously-high amperage that nobody should ever require. It is also expensive (But at least if it ever breaks, it gets shipped out and repaired without cost to me). This is FAR more than you need. A 100 AMP model should be plenty for your Cadillac. The thing to remember about amperage is to use proper cable size. Generally, for 100 AMPS of alternator power, you want to use at least an 8 Gauge cable. Of course, while you're in there, you can supplement any cable you like, including 0 gauge. Many people, especially electronic/audio enthusiasts like to run THE BIG THREE. If you're like Sting, you're asking what that is.

    THE BIG THREE.

    0 Gauge cable from Alternator to Positive Battery Terminal.
    0 Gauge cable from Negative Battery Terminal to Frame.
    0 Gauge cable from Negative Battery Terminal to Engine Block.

    This affords greater power flow. Is this excessive in your application? Yeah, most likely. But the point is that if you HAVE a bigger gauge lying around (I always do. I may be the Forum's biggest supplier of free lengths of heavy gauge wire), feel free to use it. If your stock wiring is already 8 Gauge AND it is in good shape, go right ahead with using it. Make sure all your connections are clean while you're in there. Make sure your ground to frame and block are clean, metal-to-metal contacts. Use a wire brush, if you have to (Sting learned that one with his Amplifier, too). Make sure your wires are all secure and free of breaks or damage to the rubber and you will be fine. The last thing you want is your positive lead wire having a break and making contact with the negatively-charged alternator housing. CATASTROPHIC FAILURE. When that happens, the four bolts that hold the alternator together, being made of a similar alloy as used in applications such as fuses, will actually melt and the alternator will crack in half like an egg.

    It is hilarious...but I wouldn't wish it upon anybody.

    Lastly, where to buy. Summit has a MASSIVE library of Alternators (I bet you've seen this already) so no matter which amperage and which style (One-Wire or Harness) you choose, I am sure you can find it there. I would purchase an alternator from them before I would purchase one from a general parts store (Like Autozone or Advance) and DEFINITELY before I purchased the first cheap one from Hong Kong I found on Ebay (you get what you pay for)

    ----------

    And hey. If I have to come up there to buy that gorgeous white 1984 Superior, I can always help.

    ----------

    Quote Originally Posted by greencadillacmatt View Post
    I'd love to have ice-cold A/C by the time this project is done.
    That's what driving a Cadillac is about. Even with the Edelbrock intake manifold on my 500 (Which will one day, hopefully get it's own project thread like this) I made sure to develop a means to install an AC compressor onto it.

    Luxury cars should have Air Conditioning.

    That and...you know...my Cadillac is a large, black box in "The Sunshine State"...
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  5. #485
    cadillac kevin's Avatar
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    Re: 1984 Coupe DeVille Engine Swap!

    Robert covered one wire alternators pretty well. FOr the reasons he mentioned, I do not recommend using them.

    I vote for 140 amp GM CS144 with your olds pulley swapped onto it.
    Cost- $50- $200. Mine cost approx $70 by the time I got done, but that was with the alternator, new harness plug (due to not being able to find the plug in the junkyard), new bottom bracket bolt, copper terminal ends, 0 gauge wire. I will say, my battery charges faster and my electronics seem happier (since I ran 0 gauge all the way to the factory distribution block).

  6. #486
    The-Dullahan is offline Cadillac Owners Master
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    Re: 1984 Coupe DeVille Engine Swap!

    ^That is more than sufficient, Matt. Swapping an alternator pulley is super simple stuff. As for the harness, you can either cut and splice or (as with my Alternator) make an adapter harness (allowing me to run either style Alternator...Or both...)

    I once ran a 140 AMP Alternator for about a week and it did the job of charging my batteries (All of them. The factory battery only powers my starter anymore and the rest of the power comes from a series of 200AH batteries) plenty well enough. I am pretty certain I still have that one.

    In fact, let me check and see which alternators I still have lying around. I may have one for you (God knows I have at least a few)
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  7. #487
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    Re: 1984 Coupe DeVille Engine Swap!

    Wow, ask and ye shall receive! Thanks so much guys! That's some pretty dang great advice!

    (Would a 140 amp alternator lead to overcharging issues?)

  8. #488
    The-Dullahan is offline Cadillac Owners Master
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    Re: 1984 Coupe DeVille Engine Swap!

    No. Overcharging will only occur when the alternator does not function properly and it pushes onwards, eventually resulting in higher voltage than your car should have.

    When my Alternator was initially bench-tested it was pushing (I am proud of this) 666 AMPS. Whether or not the amperage is that high will not lead to overcharging. Overcharging occurs when the regulation circuit goes bad and the Alternator ends up feeding out 15+ Volts. You'll know immediately if this happens.

    Ever see that scene in Christine, when Leigh Cabot is being killed by Christine and the dashboard and interior lights got REALLY bright? Yeah, it's sort of like that.

    ----------



    Your headlamps would also get unnaturally bright and if the voltage got high enough, things would begin to pop.

    This basically NEVER happens to anyone, so I wouldn't worry about it. If you are concerned by your lack of an indicator lamp though, you can always wire in a Voltmeter/Ammeter and call it a day.
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  9. #489
    cadillac kevin's Avatar
    cadillac kevin is offline Cadillac Owners Master
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    Re: 1984 Coupe DeVille Engine Swap!

    I had a failed voltage regulator in the safari....voltmeter started bouncing from 8 volts to 15+ volts quite rapidly then started bouncing between 8 and 11 volts.....then it died. replaced it with the alternator from my spare 4.3 parts (everyone needs a spare accessory set) and its been 40k+ miles .
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  10. #490
    The-Dullahan is offline Cadillac Owners Master
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    Re: 1984 Coupe DeVille Engine Swap!

    HID headlamps are even worse. If you have HID headlamps and your car begins to overcharge, they won't get brighter, the ballasts will go into PROTECT mode and they will just shut off.

  11. #491
    greencadillacmatt's Avatar
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    Re: 1984 Coupe DeVille Engine Swap!

    I think I found me a good compromise for my alternator! I did some research and found out that my old HT4100 alternator's connector was part number PC_151. You can get an alternator for a 1987 Brougham with the same connector, and it puts out 94 amps. That's just about perfect for what I need. And being that it isn't a single wire unit, I should have a functional NO CHARGE/ALT light.

    This is what I found: http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...999#fragment-2

    Let me know what you think! I'll probably be ordering it up next Tuesday when I'm off. (I even have an old alt laying around for the core charge!)

  12. #492
    The-Dullahan is offline Cadillac Owners Master
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    Re: 1984 Coupe DeVille Engine Swap!

    That should work just fine. I actually have one just like it presently bolted to my 1970 Cadillac motor, sitting in my garage.

  13. #493
    greencadillacmatt's Avatar
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    Re: 1984 Coupe DeVille Engine Swap!

    I'm baaaaaack!

    I've been busy the last few weeks collecting some parts for my build. I've been to the parts store, the local Meijer's, and even private junkyard!

    First of all, I got myself a new (VERY USED) set of A/C brackets from a wreked '81 Chevy station wagon with an Olds 350 Diesel. Mmm... Diesel... (The gas Olds 350 and the Diesel 350 have interchangeable engine accessories, and this one had a smog-pump-free set of A/C brackets.) Here is the shot of my swanky new brackets in action:


    Today I went to the local Meijer's (like a clean Wal-Mart for you non-regional people.) and they had their DieHard Batteries for sale. I got a brand new 770CCA Gold-Series DieHard for $117.00! And actually it didn't cost me anything, since work gives us gift cards to different places for perfect attendance.


    My next stop was Advance Auto to pick up the new 1986 Cadillac Brougham 94 amp alternator I'd ordered. "But Matt", you say, "your engine is from a '76 Cutlass! Why would you get a different alternator?" Because I'm running 1983 Olds 307 accessories, and the 1986 Brougham alt makes 94 amps and was the highest output year that still had the factory terminals. So I can plug my 2-pronged connector and the exciter wire in and not have a NO CHARGE light glaring at me all day long. Here's the new one compared to the old one. Shiny!


    And here it is installed:


    Finally, I have a COMPLETE accessory drive. And it is glorious. The best part is that shot is with my old HT4100 A/C compressor mounted. It fits the Diesel mounts! Now I don't have to splice wires to make the A/C work! Wooo!


    I'd have gotten the belts back on and tightened, but I forgot my A/C belt at home, and it was getting late anyways, so I called it quits for the evening. I cruised back to the parts store, got my core charge back with that old alternator, and picked up a new oil pan drain plug and O-ring.

    Tune in next time for more Coupe DeVille Adventures with your pal greencadillacmatt!
    77CDV, csbuckn and talismandave like this.

  14. #494
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    Re: 1984 Coupe DeVille Engine Swap!

    Wait, what year is it?



    Woot! AC brackets!

  15. #495
    77CDV's Avatar
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    Re: 1984 Coupe DeVille Engine Swap!

    Well done, Matt! Good to see you making progress!
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