(Finally) Going to get work going on my FWB

Stingroo · #1 (**permalink**) 07-30-09, 11:24 PM

Okay so, I've been lurking around these forums for months, talking to you guys, asking questions, and helping with little input whenever I could. Heck, if it weren't for the thing under my username that says what car I've got, half of you would probably never buy it from all my questions. :P

So... here's a recap of the situation:

I've got a 94 FWB with what I assume to be under 100k miles (the oil change sticker on the winshield says next change at 9x,xxx (It's blurry from the sun). The only problem is, I can't start the car to verify this. It definitely needs a starter, because currently it sits on the passenger seat, waiting to be put in.

However, here's the problem: I'm afraid to put the car on jack stands. It's obviously really, really heavy, and I think ramps would just be safer. But I don't know anyone who OWNS ramps, or where to go to borrow a set or something kind of like tool rental or whatever.

However, assuming I can get ramps, I have the money to buy a battery for it, so I can start it, and run it around town for a bit and then run codes. I was told it needed a head gasket... but my dad, who's worked at GM dealerships for over 20 years basically, thinks it's more likely to be a water pump, because the oil appeared to be clean. What does that even mean? lol

How would I know the difference between the two problems once I get it running? And most importantly: what would a head gasket cost to have fixed? I found a water pump at Napa for $55. I'm assuming a head gasket is much more expensive.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. I want this car to live.

thefleetwoodguy · #2 (**permalink**) 07-31-09, 12:28 AM

if you have oil in the coolant
, but no coolant in the oil
its an easy fix!, the engine oil cooler is in the drivers side
of the radiator, they can leak,
I have seen this on 3 lt1 fleetwoods recently
including my own, replace the radiator!, if thats your symptoms
I use truck jack stands, they are fine
never get under any car if your not
100 percent sure its safe!!
good luck gettin her go'in!!

Stingroo · #3 (**permalink**) 07-31-09, 12:41 AM

Where do you put your jack stands when you lift? I just want to be sure.

Also, when we last looked at the car, there was no coolant in the oil, but there was also no coolant in the tank either.

sven914 · #4 (**permalink**) 07-31-09, 01:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stingroo

However, here's the problem: I'm afraid to put the car on jack stands. It's obviously really, really heavy, and I think ramps would just be safer. But I don't know anyone who OWNS ramps, or where to go to borrow a set or something kind of like tool rental or whatever.

I was told it needed a head gasket... but my dad, who's worked at GM dealerships for over 20 years basically, thinks it's more likely to be a water pump, because the oil appeared to be clean. What does that even mean? lol

How would I know the difference between the two problems once I get it running?

You put the stands at the jack/lift points; basically on the front frame rail or pinch weld. I'm not sure exactly where the rack points are for your car; some cars the pinch weld holds and on others it gives way. There should be information on jacking the car up in your owner's manual or on the trunk lid (on the spare tire information label).

I've held my car up on jack stands, for a four wheel rotation. They just have to be on level ground. Shake the car few times before you get under it, so you know it will not fall.

The fact that there is no water in the oil doesn't mean anything. My car has a (maybe 2) blown head gasket(s) and my oil isn't contaminated. You can pressure test the cooling system to see where coolant comes out; put a large piece of cardboard under the engine. You can also use a UV flash light to find coolant leaks.

Stingroo · #5 (**permalink**) 07-31-09, 02:13 AM

I've got the level ground to do it, I guess. Just kinda worries me. I can check the owner's manual later to look for the lift points. Can't open the trunk though, because then the auto closer won't engage since I have no power.

I'm really hoping and praying that it's not the head gaskets, because that'll put me car-less for a few more months if it is. I can get a small UV flashlight for like $5-10 online I found. It says that there are 3, 6, and 12 LED lights. What's best for this? Or do I need something more heavy duty?

How would I use it to detect leaks?

sven914 · #6 (**permalink**) 07-31-09, 02:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stingroo

Can't open the trunk though, because then the auto closer won't engage since I have no power.

Just close it harder. It works like a regular trunk lid that has no electronic assist. You won't damage the motor.

Stingroo · #7 (**permalink**) 07-31-09, 10:34 AM

Okay, so I can open the trunk, cool. lol

After I replace the starter and battery, do you think it would be best to replace the oil and the coolant anyway, then run the car for a little bit and check again?

It's been sitting for awhile. At least 1 month at my house, and if the tag on it is any indication, possibly since January or earlier at my uncle's. (It says 1/09, and he's really not the type of guy to ride around on expired tags).

Lazarus_Rooney · #8 (**permalink**) 07-31-09, 10:49 AM

I'd like to reinforce the lesson here of not going under the car unless its safe. I almost learned the hard way once. USE HEAVY - DUYT STANDS THAT WONT DO THIS:

Stingroo · #9 (**permalink**) 07-31-09, 11:37 AM

Yeah, that's why I'm scared of stands. I would really prefer ramps, they'd just make me feel better. lol

Lazarus_Rooney · #10 (**permalink**) 07-31-09, 01:24 PM

i dont know if anyone makes ramps that will hold such a heavy car, i borrow jacks simmilar to these from a friend when i lift my car for any amount of time
http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/pro...531a83_400.jpg
if you prefer ramps, these seem like there is no way they can fail
http://www.discountramps.com/images/...ar-ramps-2.jpg

EndlessRyd · #11 (**permalink**) 07-31-09, 02:39 PM

Even with a dead battery, or no battery at all, you should still be able to jump it and turn on tha acc. mode to see the mileage. We jump cars with no batteries all the time at my work, and even drive them around to test them.

Stingroo · #12 (**permalink**) 07-31-09, 03:19 PM

True. I'm going to see if I can get my hands on a good sturdy set of stands, and I'll check the owners manual to see where they go.

thefleetwoodguy · #13 (**permalink**) 07-31-09, 04:28 PM

sven19 wrote.."The fact that there is no water in the oil doesn't mean anything. My car has a (maybe 2) blown head gasket(s) and my oil isn't contaminated. "

doesnt mean anything? lol

we are talking about the lt1 motors, with the optional engine oil cooler,
not ALL caddy's,
again this is very common on the lt1's
when the oil cooler hoses are replaced , often they are difficult to get off ,
when you apply enough force to get the nuts to turn, the tank can crack
, it takes a while before you see the oil in the coolant
again I have seen this 3 times very recently
I would also say it is not a typical problem to have a head gasket go on an lt1
iron head, unless it was overheated quite a bit
doing the leak down is a good idea, you can pull the rad and any radiator shop can check the oil cooler tank , my first two moves before considering a head gasket job$$$$

Stingroo · #14 (**permalink**) 07-31-09, 04:39 PM

Fleetwood Guy: When we checked the car last, the coolant reservoir was empty, and there was no coolant in the oil. So I should just change the oil and fill the coolant, then see what happens?

thefleetwoodguy · #15 (**permalink**) 07-31-09, 05:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stingroo

Fleetwood Guy: When we checked the car last, the coolant reservoir was empty, and there was no coolant in the oil. So I should just change the oil and fill the coolant, then see what happens?

for sure thats the first things to do