1971 Deville Saved From Crusher (Long). - Page 2

MagicRat · #16 (**permalink**) 08-25-08, 02:46 PM

Wow, beautiful car. I turned down a '71 in about the same condition 10 years ago ($600 asking) and I have regretted it ever since.
I think the compression varience is not a problem. You may find after some driving the lower cylinders may increase a bit, as cylinder wall rust is eliminated. Even if nothing improves, it runs strong and smooth and imo anything over 100 psi is dandy.

And yes, a positraction rear end was an option on pretty much all RWD GM cars for decades, and its a quite valuable and rare option.

77CDV · #17 (**permalink**) 08-27-08, 09:54 PM

Thank you for saving this car from an ignominious end. She's a beaut! Don't give up on her!!!!

Maxwellvon · #18 (**permalink**) 09-06-08, 07:48 PM

Thanks for all the encouragement guys. I've got her running pretty well and have put 50 miles on running around town. It sure is fun to drive and turns a lot of heads.
Unfortunately I think I "hit the wall" so to speak today. I have registered and insured the car but I can't drive it until I repair the floor section of the trunk either temporarily with patches or correctly with a replacement panel as fumes enter the cabin and I start turning blue. I went to a local restoration shop and the owner is very knowledgeable of 1970's GM products. He took one look at my trunk floor and pointed to the rear window, "that's your problem, they all leaked at the rear window. Not worth saving unless you have the skills or the cash. We'd charge $4000 to fix it without paint." I poked the bottom of the rear glass at the corners and flakes of rust fell below into the trunk. It was raining tonight and I could see the constant drip of water at both bottom sides of the rear window entering the trunk. I was hoping it was just a bad trunk seal. Now I'm at the cross roads. I don't want to remove the rear window only to discover terminal cancer and have to fabricate sheetmetal since nobody makes replacement sheetmetal for these cars. The car is far from perfect and I knew I'd have to put a lot into it long term but since discovering the lack of aftermarket parts for this vintage I'm getting discouraged. I guess I should take a long term approach instead of trying to get it road worthy before the snow flies.
It's just too nice to scrap. I wish I had a better skill set to tackle this (and a welder and compressor). I may have to move off of this and pass it on to somebody more qualified for a DIY restoration.

**jayoldschool** · #19 (**permalink**) 09-06-08, 09:56 PM

DON'T GIVE UP!

It may not be that bad. That rear window leak is SUPER common on 70s GM cars with vinyl tops. My 71 did the exact same thing since the day I got it when I was 16. I used silicone all around the mouldings on both sides, and it never helped. If it rained, the trunk would get wet. I used to park it with plastic sheeting rolled up in the windows and pulled down to the trunk.

When I finally got the body done, we took the paint down to the metal, peeled back the vinyl top, and removed the rear window. I couldn't believe my eyes. There were about three or four tiny pinholes in the bottom left side right where the glass met the vinyl. It would hold moisture, and that's where it rotted through and the water would leak. It didn't even need a patch, just a few zaps with the mig. I did my Pontiac full custom style, so I didn't put the vinyl back on. Happy to report that ten years later, the trunk is still bone dry.

Here is what to do. Go to a glass shop. Get them to pull your back window. Once it's out, you need to clean out that channel down to the metal. Hate to say it, but you will need to peel back that vinyl too. If you do it carefully, you may be able to reglue it around the window. If you destroy it, don't worry... getting a top done is only about 250 bucks. Once you find the rust holes, find a local body shop that works for cash and have them patch it up. Doesn't have to be beautiful because it will be under the vinyl. They will be very familiar with your problem and know exactly what to do to fix it (and it will only cost you a few hundred, tops). even if they have to cut some patches it is not a hard job. Just get the holes patched, sealed, primed, painted. Then, the vinyl goes back (reglue, or new), then back to the glass shop to restick that window. Put the moldings back, and enjoy your dry trunk.

To safely drive it for now until you get that window leak done, just buy a sheet of patch metal, cut some patches for your trunk, and silicone them in place. You don't need to screw them for a temp job.

Where are you? Perhaps one of our members knows a shop that can help you out. Heck for 1/8th of what those rip-off artists wanted to charge you, you could pick up some nice shears, and a mig welder and do it your self.

Maxwellvon · #20 (**permalink**) 09-07-08, 04:32 PM

Thank you Jayoldschool. I went out this morning and took a better look and it is not as bad as I thought. The area right under the left corner of the rear window is crusty and porus but the rest is very solid. I'm taking your advice and having the rear glass removed this week. I'll update with pictures later on. I hope it is minor in nature. Either way I have to find out right? If I can get past this hurdle and secure a dry trunk then I can move forward and patch the trunk floor, do the rear main and then look forward to some fall foliage tours! It's really a fun car and so simple to work on. I really appreciate you sharing your knowledge and experience.
All the best,
Max

**jayoldschool** · #21 (**permalink**) 09-07-08, 05:46 PM

Glad to help. That is the same spot that was bad on my 71...

Maxwellvon · #22 (**permalink**) 09-22-08, 05:45 PM

The car is for sale. I have lost the garage space that was available to me. My landlord has rented it out for winter storage and I can't store it outside all winter. I have placed an ad in the classifieds here.
I just want to thank everyone for all the advise and encouragement. It was a pleasure to find such a great group of helpful and knowledgable enthusiasts. Hopefully somebody will restore this car to at least weekend cruiser status and it won't end up getting crushed. That was my motivation anyway.....

**jayoldschool** · #23 (**permalink**) 09-22-08, 09:01 PM

It will go to a good home. Hopefully, it goes to one of the forum regulars and we can keep it in the family!

cadillac_al · #24 (**permalink**) 09-22-08, 11:44 PM

Couldn't the new buyer register it as an antique and have either no inspection or limited inspection? Too bad you can't keep it. That car gave me a new appreciation for 71 Devilles

Maxwellvon · #25 (**permalink**) 09-23-08, 05:10 PM

The car is sold! I had it listed on Craigslist and within 24 hours it is gone. Very nice guy 10 miles away. He is a mechanic and is a true Cadillac Man. His last one was a 1960 4 door coupe. I'm very glad it's going to a good home and someone who will enjoy it. I got to drive it to his home and he brought me back to mine. What a great car! It made me feel proud that this one didn't end up on the scrap heap. I'd do it again in a heartbeat. Thanks again to all on this forum. I'll be checking in now an then.
All the best,
Max

**jayoldschool** · #26 (**permalink**) 09-23-08, 06:43 PM

WOW! That was fast. Glad to hear it worked out well. Did you tell him to join the forum?

Maxwellvon · #27 (**permalink**) 09-23-08, 10:48 PM

Just a side note Jayoldschool...
I was born and raised in Hamilton Ontario and moved to the states in 1968. I'm still a Canadian citizen. The guy that bought the car was born in Lindsay Ontario and is still a Canadian citizen although he is 20 years my junior. It's just strange how many Canadians got involved in a left for dead 1971 Cadiallac...EH? LOL!