Trouble Stiff Ride / Car Shut Off

hap123 · #1 (**permalink**) 01-17-08, 02:11 PM

1) I have the 96 FW with the towing package, that is not giving me a good ride, rather "stiff" as the opinion of some. It had been suggested, that the tires could be the cause, I recently was told to consider the shocks too. I looked at the monroe site and fround several shocks, I am considering the 5801, they have a 58263 for towing and hauling, but I thought that would be to stiff for non-towing. (I could be wrong). Any suggestion on shocks, brand names, place to purchase, model # etc.
2) I was riding down the highway and the car cutoff and all the panel lights came on. Had to get it towed to a shop. They are replacing the starter. . . someone told that the starter was going bad. But that should not shut down the car. Any suggestions as the shop is having a heck of a time getting it to start again.

**jayoldschool** · #2 (**permalink**) 01-17-08, 02:21 PM

Have them check, clean, lubricate (with dilectric grease) the battery terminals/cables. Corrosion here is common, unseen, and can cause the car to die unannounced.

Good shocks will be stiff. If you want a floaty, old-school Cadillac ride, put on the cheapest shocks you can find. Be ready to replace them annually, however.

Cadillacboy · #3 (**permalink**) 01-17-08, 03:06 PM

Well, VP4 package comes with a stiffer suspension over standard Fleetwoods let alone standard FWB.You should have no floaty drive/ride that's normal as I know .

hap123 · #4 (**permalink**) 01-17-08, 07:44 PM

The car is up and running, again, needed a starter ($260 plus labor)and some gas. It had ran out of gas, the shop said the indicator is off, it was on two "bars" and got to one bar and shut off. When they got it the one bar was showing, but they advise me that the the indicator is misleading. . . . we won't cross that bridge again ! ! !

As for the shocks a friend who is a mechanic also said the car was riding a little stiff. He suggest the shocks as a possiblity also, considering the tires too. I know what that floating old school ride is like, I had that in my 94 FWB.. . . this is far from that. As it stands now I'll invest in tires and shocks, then if that don't give me the ride I want . . . its for sale . . .towing package or not.

Hap

N0DIH · #5 (**permalink**) 01-17-08, 09:41 PM

Did you confirm the "V4P" on the SPID in the trunk? They are pretty rare. A trailer hitch is NOT any evidence of a tow package. The wiring harness in the left rear trunk under the side flap IS a good sign!

hap123 · #6 (**permalink**) 01-18-08, 01:26 AM

My car is a confirmed towing package, has the sticker on the trunk lid too.

N0DIH · #7 (**permalink**) 01-18-08, 02:53 AM

Cool, welcome to the V4P Club! I think of the 93-96 Fleetwood V4P owners I have talked to, you are the 4th or 5th one I have ever found....

Considering it was only a $215 option!! Best $ you can spend out of the factory!

caddycruiser · #8 (**permalink**) 01-18-08, 09:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by N0DIH

Cool, welcome to the V4P Club! I think of the 93-96 Fleetwood V4P owners I have talked to, you are the 4th or 5th one I have ever found....

Considering it was only a $215 option!! Best $ you can spend out of the factory!

Yeah and the same suspension on our Roadmaster....I just can't see how anyone would find that stiff or hard. I think it rides SO much better than our awful float boat base suspension Fleetwoods, because it still absorbs every little impact but does so without the car wallowing, bobbing, etc. all over the place.

I wish I could do a ride & drive in this car to see. That said, tires will make some difference--at least if they're worn or old--and shocks really would only help control rebounding after impacts.

N0DIH: You've driven both an FE1 and FE2 (daily) Fleetwood...what were your thoughts? Like mine with our Roadmaster vs. Fleetwood?

**jayoldschool** · #9 (**permalink**) 01-18-08, 10:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hap123

The car is up and running, again, needed a starter ($260 plus labor)and some gas. It had ran out of gas, the shop said the indicator is off, it was on two "bars" and got to one bar and shut off. When they got it the one bar was showing, but they advise me that the the indicator is misleading. . . . we won't cross that bridge again ! ! !

Hap

I think you just got taken, big time. Your car ran out of gas. Your garage replaced the starter. Sound suspicious? Sure does! Have them show you the old starter and a bench test that it is bad. If they won't give you that, you know they are crooks.

N0DIH · #10 (**permalink**) 01-18-08, 12:00 PM

Oh but of course "it went back to the store as a core" story... they will never produce it, probably have it there in the shop.... PG260's RARELY fail unless SERIOUSLY abused.... They are monster torquey....

Don't get me on my crooked shop soap box..... Either crooked or ignorant and they spend YOUR money troubleshooting what they have no clue on.....

The B/D gas gauges are all flukey, but there is a fix, it just needs to be recalibrated (new "full" reference point). Simple really, $10 fix here: http://www.bradley.capitalclimate.com/ Click on B-Body....

I have NEVER seen my low fuel light on.... I have run out 2x now..... Once on the day I bought the car, I couldn't even GET to a gas station!!!

caddycruiser · #11 (**permalink**) 01-18-08, 12:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by N0DIH

I have NEVER seen my low fuel light on.... I have run out 2x now..... Once on the day I bought the car, I couldn't even GET to a gas station!!!

Here's the odd part. When I test drove my car, it had 3 notches. Went to pick it up, and it had 2...and we gave it a workout before signing anything.

As I was leaving for home, sitting at a redlight, ALL bars disappeared and a flashing light in the same area started, for Low Fuel. Car was still running fine, not a hiccup. So, I think, I actually have a bizarre dead accurate one.

That said...2 months later, after being parked and just started a few times, I came back home and took it for a drive, only for it to die after my first stop & turn off. The cause? Not only was the fuel pump fried, but the wiring harness for it was also melted (not uncommon). All fixed now, but it's still a household habit to never go below a quarter with ANY of the vehicles.

All as said, running out with 2-3 bars left seems to be the norm on a lot of these vehicles. That was clearly the problem...and I really wonder why the heck anyone replaced a starter, in relation.

N0DIH · #12 (**permalink**) 01-18-08, 05:23 PM

Mine typically goes to 2 bars and I am pretty paniky on getting gas. But I have run out at 4 before.... On flat ground no less..... I usually shoot for filling up by miles over gauge.... 350 is time to get it, 400, sheesh, I am on vapors!!!

hap123 · #13 (**permalink**) 01-19-08, 03:18 AM

The biggest problem I have with the starter is the price. A mechanic friend said the starter was going bad when he first heard the car. First thing he said , "The starter is bad". When i ran out of gas, it stop turning over the engine and just started spinning. The total job came to $325 including the $5 gas. The showed me the old starter.
I am so amazed about the support this car is getting in relations to it being a good riding car. I feel every pot-hole, every bump without any cushioning/ asorbing the shock . . . . just a deat flat ride . . . firm . . I almost want to say the ride is "hard" for a caddy and I have had several caddies since my High School days and over the years . . . and I swear this is the worst riding car I've experience . . . . I have a 94 XJS Jag that rides better than this car in my opinion. I have to put shocks and tires on this to see if that will do it

Thanks for the info on the fuel gauges and the kit.
Hap

caddycruiser · #14 (**permalink**) 01-19-08, 04:25 PM

Well, another thing to remember is just wear. Aside from floating and bobbing around, I don't think either of our two bone-stock "base" suspension cars are good riding at all...and do have a lot of impact harshness, chatter, etc. over bumps and cracks, usually.

Actually, I remember reading a whole discussion years ago where someone test drove one of these cars and was trying to figure out--for such a large, heavy luxury car--10 years later it seemed to have too much road noise, impact harshness, etc. compared to what they were expecting.

The idea? There's a lot in the way of not only worn springs and shocks, but also things like bushings, links, etc. and the tires that all make an effect.

Then again, it is a bit different of a car, but with the same FE2 tow package suspension on our Roadmaster...it STILL rides better with almost double the miles of either of our Fleetwoods. Then again, we also think it's a much more solid and "one" together feeling vehicle, too, which has always baffled us in comparison to both Fleetwoods.

I think you're likely experiencing a) a Fleetwood that maybe has a few bits and pieces here and there worn, b) tires that are older and hard, c) a suspension you're just not used to, etc. There's a lot of different variables that can go into a car and how it feels after a decade, and it can be hard sometimes to nail specifics down...ESPECIALLY if you've had more than one of the same car, to compare.

N0DIH · #15 (**permalink**) 01-19-08, 11:12 PM

Do you have a shock that is jammed up? I found a new one at the store that was locked in position, it wouldn't move. Can you easily push and bounce all corners of the car? Or like I did, I had one that the shock somehow brokeout the bottom of my right side lower control arm and it stuck the shock out the bottom. So I lost the shock, and damaged the car. I had it welded up and drilled it out, but it isn't right yet.... I'll fix it when I get my newer 5/8" ball joint limo/taxi/9C1 arms with the big 71-76 ball joints on. The 12" brakes will find their way on my 80 Turbo T/A for a GM looking 12" brake upgrade for next to free....

These cars are very quiet and very smooth, even for a V4P or FE2 (ride/handling car) car...