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Low buck tips to improve handling on the 77-96 D Body cars?

15K views 34 replies 17 participants last post by  jayoldschool 
#1 · (Edited)
Emphasis on low buck boys and girls:

1. Install 70-81 F Body 1.25" front antisway bar. This has a shorter lever than the stock 1 1/8" or 30mm (1.18") bar we have, so the bar is much more in control than we have now stock. 9C1, FE2, Impala SS FE4, bars are all the same 30mm, they are NOT the F-Body 1.25" bar....The Hotchkiss bars are hollow, the HA/HO bars are rare, and the 1.25" F-Body bar is still made aftermarket and very very effective compared to the rest.

2. Install 70-81 F-Body lower control arm to crossmember to frame braces (often removed and tossed when headers installed). Note these were later WELDED in the 92-96 cars (not 100% sure on 92-93, but they should have been). These were bolt in on the 70-81 F cars and 77-92 B cars. The 80 Turbo T/A had shorter LCA to frame braces that were simpler and easier to work with, but not near as effective as the weld in 92-96 braces.

3. Install 1990 9C1 (cop car) Caprice shocks, most expensive ones you can afford, I have had very good results with Gabriel Ultra's for only $30 each.

4. Widest and lowest aspect ratio tires you can fit. Shoot for 275 60 15's if you can fit them.... But you rarely can keep whitewalls, so it gives away the sleeper aspect. 17in Impala SS wheels are a nice upgrade. But often don't fit low buck.

5. Lower the car 1 inch, rarely noticed if done all the way around, but good improvement in handling.

6. Relocate battery to trunk. Mount it properly, and run FAT cable, but relocating 50-80 lbs from 6 feet in front of center of gravity to 8 feet behind makes a MASSIVE improvement in handling. Better than all the mods above combined. And winter traction greatly improved, dry 1/4 mile traction improved, tire wear improved, front suspension life increased (especially ball joints). Position as far back on right side as low as you can get. Ensure proper venting and mounting! MBenz is OEM like this, Bentley is OEM like this, etc. You will LOVE it.

7. Alignment. Shoot for around 0.5 degrees negative camber, 4.5 degrees positive caster, and 0 toe, and very tight cross camber. If you can afford the tires and drive aggressively, then go for a little more toe out and 0.75 degrees negative camber. Careful with caster/camber, too much of one will either exceed mech specs GM has set on how thick the stack of shims is, or too much caster and you will start losing camber. Don't sacrifice camber more than 0.25 degrees negative and no less than 3.5 degrees positive caster. Make sure you design in some crown offset, your alignment guy will know how much...

8. 9C1 body bushings. Get em! Cheap too!

9. Don't use polyurethane bushings unless they have nyliners. They bind without them and wear fast and are noisy as heck....

10. 9C1 power steering box, 92 Trans AM WS6 power steering box, etc. 92 Trans AM Power Steering box has a constant 12.7:1 ratio. Much more desired than variable ratio.

11. Cop car springs if you like stiff. FE2 Fleetwood springs are same RATE as Impala SS FE4 springs, but the Impala SS springs are just shorter. Often cheap on the net used.
 
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#33 ·
Is the 9c1 front sway bar an improvement over the stock caddy sway bar? I'm going junkyarding tomorrow and will be taking some 9c1 springs home (definitely rear and maybe fronts) and was wondering if I should take the front sway bar as well? (I would take the rear sway bar too, but IIRC, a 90 tow package/350 brougham bar is the same as a 9c1 bar.
 
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