Havoline?

STS127 · #1 (**permalink**) 12-25-06, 07:22 PM

I've got another oil question. What is all of your opinions on Havoline. I saw a case on sale and was thinking about trying it.

Dadillac · #2 (**permalink**) 12-25-06, 07:54 PM

I buy my oil at WalMart in the 5qt jugs. I buy whatever is cheapest. Havoline is usually about $0.20 cheaper than the others and I usually get that. Oil is oil. Just buy whatever floats your boat and don't worry about it. Havoline, Castrol, Valvoline, etc. It doesn't matter.

Don

**Ranger** · #3 (**permalink**) 12-25-06, 08:19 PM

codewize · #4 (**permalink**) 12-25-06, 10:01 PM

Ok granted this question is getting out of hand but oil is NOT oil by any means.

Havoline is a great oil. I swear by Valvoline for several proven reasons. However I have recently switched my 93Brougham 350 to Amsoil and the 2001 DTS N* will be switched on the next oil change. Again for proven reasons. Things I've seen proof of.

C66 Racing · #5 (**permalink**) 12-25-06, 10:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by STS127

I've got another oil question. What is all of your opinions on Havoline. I saw a case on sale and was thinking about trying it.

AMSOIL included Havoline in this fairly recent motor oil comparision so you can see how it stacks up to your other preferred brands:
Comparative Motor Oil Test Nov 05

peteski · #6 (**permalink**) 12-25-06, 10:41 PM

I wish that every car owner in the world would just swich to Amsoil and get it over with. Then we would have no more questions and "oil battles" anymore. And we would all be on the same page. Or better yet, it would be great if we could somehow stop all the other petroleum companies from producing inferior lubricants. That way Amsoil could become the sole world supplier of superb quality lubricants.

Why fight it? Use the best there is - synthetic oils by Amsoil! Proof is everywhere.

Happy New Year!

Peteski

**Ranger** · #7 (**permalink**) 12-25-06, 10:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by codewize

Ok granted this question is getting out of hand but oil is NOT oil by any means.

Havoline is a great oil. I swear by Valvoline for several proven reasons. However I have recently switched Brougham to Amsoil and the DTS will be switched the next oil change. Again for proven reasons. Things I've seen proof of.

Are you saying that we are going to suffer an oil related failure by using a "lesser" oil, or the engine won't last as long?

codewize · #8 (**permalink**) 12-25-06, 11:48 PM

No I'm not saying that at all. I've used Valvoline since I was old enough to know what a car was. Again for reasons that were show to me then in test results. I've also run every one of my Cadillacs over 200k with no engine issues at all.

I had a drag car, 67 Camaro ragtop, seriously built 350. I ran Valvoline 20-50 in that and changed the oil about every 5k. I drove the car as my daily driver for 2 years and raced it every Sunday. The engine had about 100k on it when I sold it. The guy wanted to reuse the engine but insisted that it needed to be rebuilt after all that abuse. He later called me up to ask me what oil I'd been using because the internals showed no signs of where and were clean enough to eat off of.

Having said that, long term I will say you're view of my statement can be correct. It's been shown several times that Amsoil yields FAR less metallic wear than any other oil on the market.

Will you're engine break at 50k if you don't use it? No of course not BUT if you know there's a way to reduce wear, why not use it.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ranger

Are you saying that we are going to suffer an oil related failure by using a "lesser" oil, or the engine won't last as long?

**Ranger** · #9 (**permalink**) 12-26-06, 12:02 AM

Well, I think you are basically agreeing with me. Don't get me wrong. I am not (nor Do I think) saying that Havolin is bad. Maybe a better way to put it is, in the end, oil is oil. Look at it this way. We both run our Northstars 200,000 miles with no oil related failures. You used whatever you consider to be the best oil and I used whatever you considered to be the worst oil. The oils did there job. They kept the moving parts seperated and lubed. You just can't ask any more from an oil. Now which oil was "better"? And if one was, by what ever standard, what did it accomplish that the lesser oil did not?

dkozloski · #10 (**permalink**) 12-26-06, 01:07 PM

I bought a lawn mower from Sears in 1974 and ran it until 2005 when I finally took it to the dump. The engine was running fine and didn't smoke but the rest was worn out. In that time I NEVER changed the oil and added oil once. 31 years of service on the original oil and the drain plug was never removed. That oil was some pretty tough stuff.

codewize · #11 (**permalink**) 12-26-06, 02:13 PM

Wow that's pretty impressive. I wonder what it was. Is that a Briggs engine or Kohler?

devilleconcours100 · #12 (**permalink**) 12-26-06, 02:30 PM

Well, I have got to 184k miles on the 94 caddy, and it has used mostly shell oil, but occasionally Pennzoil, Mobil, Valvoline, and at times Exxon. No real difference, just so long as its 10W-30. My 86 MB uses Shell 15W-40, no difference between it or Valvoline, Mobil Delvac, Chevron Delo, etc. Basically, as long as it meets the same specs, and is the same weight (for conventional oil anyway) its pretty much compatable.
Thanks, Dave.

dkozloski · #13 (**permalink**) 12-26-06, 02:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by codewize

Wow that's pretty impressive. I wonder what it was. Is that a Briggs engine or Kohler?

Briggs and Stratton

Dadillac · #14 (**permalink**) 12-26-06, 10:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ranger

Well, I think you are basically agreeing with me. Don't get me wrong. I am not (nor Don I think) saying that Havolin is bad. Maybe a better way to put it is, in the end, oil is oil. Look at it this way. We both run our Northstars 200,000 miles with no oil related failures. You used whatever you consider to be the best oil and I used whatever you considered to be the worst oil. The oils did there job. They kept the moving parts seperated and lubed. You just can't ask any more from an oil. Now which oil was "better"? And if one was, by what ever standard, what did it accomplish that the lesser oil did not?

In no way am I insinuating that Havoline is a bad oil. Havoline 5w30 is in my N* right now. Oil manufacturers have to abide by government regulations on minimum standards. That is what the sunburst chart is all about. So "all" oils meet the governments minimum standard. If one oil was heads above the rest, ALL new cars would be filled with it. This issue on which oil is best, and how often to change it, has been going on for decades. And it will go on for many more decades no matter what info comes out. As long as you are using a brand name oil, you cannot go wrong, period. And I will bet that my engine that gets plain old dyno oil, and changed when the OLM tells me to, will last just as long as the engine with high dollar synthetic, that is still on the ancient 3k plan. I will not argue this with anyone, as it is a never ending debate, and I have had my fill of it in the past.

Don

Tonkin · #15 (**permalink**) 12-27-06, 01:27 AM

On all my cars I have owned since 1958 I always changed the oil and filter every 3000 miles or three months, which ever came first. Always used the least expensive natural oil I could find. Buicks , Austin Healeys, Porsche , and Cadillacs. Never had an oil failure. The only problem with the above is if your engine overheats due to cooling failure you need to replace the oil right away, Or if you run your engine at full power on a race track for 100 plus miles you would need a racing oil. (High temp kills oil fast). For most of us 90% of engine wear happens within the first 5 seconds of starting the engine. (synthetics reduce this) But even with this wear with regular oil at 100,000 miles you can hardly measure any wear on the engine parts and at 200,000 the wear is still within tolerance of manufacture. I do love the smell of Valvoline Racing oil in the morning though!