Havoline? - Page 5

GreenMachine · #61 (**permalink**) 01-13-07, 12:03 AM

Havoline has been "marked up" at the family dollar to two dollars and then reduced to 1.89 :P Advance only has 20w-50 and something else left, no 10w-30 or 5w-30 left but the Advance Auto brand of oil says its bottled by havoline and it is 1.65. Seems all the oil around here has jumped in price, adding tax to the cases brings everything up (sales tax is .0875 in Erie County, NY)

codewize · #62 (**permalink**) 01-13-07, 12:13 AM

I'm not seeing this supply problem. Wal-Mart and all of my local parts places have oogles of Havoline products. Auto Zone, Parts America, PepBoys. They have tons.

Hey man I'm just giving you guys a hard time at this point. It's all good.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ranger

Thats the point, Code. Conventional oils are designed and tested to flow at -35C/-31F (5W) and -30C/-22F (10W).

MonzaRacer · #63 (**permalink**) 01-13-07, 12:17 AM

Ok guys I will chime back in here again. I for one have seen several Amsoil lubed engines and if I want to look at bearings that trashed I can demo a car with no coolant (non- northstar) and look better.
As a technician and a an engine builder (and I am seriously thinking of using either a N* or Aurora as both aresame basic design just depends on which I find used first in a hot rod project ) I see this discussion show up everywhere but I have used several types of oil in my life. I personally use Kendal Full Synthetic in my truck and my big block has Shell Rotella T in it.
But basicly when the oil police bump on antiwear component they replace it with one or two others and have to follow specific anti wear test and these include older tests/specs not just new tests/specs or you would be warned to not use them in older engines.
I uise full synthetic because of specific things I see happening in engines and I see what they will do and I know they can be used for exteneded mileage oilchanges(I am a tech and my truck is last to get worked on).
BUT I also know my bib block haas a lot of hard miles on it and well over 100k on Shell too.
BUT if you read your owners manual it will tell you to use a rated oil and change regularly. Seems like you guy just want to put your mangnifying glass a little too hard on what you do.
If most people would simply change on a proper schedule, service it with a maintenance plan and the car will go a long time.
The taxi cab company I set up the maintenace program for them and when the sold thier last 87 (the last of the cars that I was certain used my plan) Caprice a friend of mine bought it and it had 388k on the car and all it ever had got was a camshaft (lifter collapsed, so it got a cam/lifters) and a valve job,,, other wise it got 2 trany rebuilds(bad seals as they just work hardened never had any new clutched installed) a set of axles and C-clip eliminators. But the short block was still as GM built it in 87. I was impressed and saw the mant. records and the engine when he brought it down to soup it up. It naow has 010 pistons , still stock crank never turned and a new set of SR Torqer heads ,and headers and a LT4 HOT roller and soon to be converted over to a TPI and Megasquirt.
AND i guarantee this car got beat harder than your cars and it ran Shell 10W30 all its life.Now it runs Kendal Synthetic 5w40 and was broke in on Shell Rotella.
BUT from the records the engine started life with 2 % leakdown new and it was at 5 % when we tore it down, and was honed to .010 over to clean up some light scuffing. I sold the heads after a valve job and he stepped up to better heads.
I'll say it again use a good grade of oil, change it regularly and service other thing properly and you will be fine.
Dont sweat the small stuff so much.
Lee

GreenMachine · #64 (**permalink**) 01-13-07, 12:39 AM

^don't look at me, was trying to find something cheap for under 2 bucks, I'm a Kendall fan. Local hardware store chains have the synthetic blend GT1 for around 2 bucks, thinking of buying that since they have rebates on it:
http://www.kendallgt1promos.com/index.html

Wish I checked that site when I had the local shop change my oil, would have received a free thermos, sharp looking too.

STS127 · #65 (**permalink**) 01-13-07, 09:07 AM

^^ I recently bought a case of Kendall GT-1 Hi-Performance synthetic blend for 23 bucks. I went to Auto Zone and they were out of Havoline and this was a good price so I bought it. Too bad the promo for a case is only $4.80.

codewize · #66 (**permalink**) 01-13-07, 12:20 PM

MonzaRacer; I have to say that you're the only one I've ever heard speak so adamantly about Amsoil in a negative way. Everyone I talk to think it's the greatest thing in the world, every test I've seen backs that up, but yet you say it's like running your engine with sand in it.

I'm not sure I understand why there's such a difference in stories here.

GreenMachine · #67 (**permalink**) 01-13-07, 12:37 PM

its more like pouring liquid gold threw your engine, very expensive seems to be its drawback.

AlBundy · #68 (**permalink**) 01-13-07, 03:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by codewize

MonzaRacer; I have to say that you're the only one I've ever heard speak so adamantly about Amsoil in a negative way. Everyone I talk to think it's the greatest thing in the world, every test I've seen backs that up, but yet you say it's like running your engine with sand in it.

I'm not sure I understand why there's such a difference in stories here.

Its like trying to figure out if the product is bad or is it the extended drain interval?

codewize · #69 (**permalink**) 01-13-07, 04:45 PM

Well there's a couple things here. The one oil they claim is good for 25k, the XL line is rated at 7500 miles. I would never leave anything in there for 25k. That's just wrong and I don't care what they say.

So is it that people are not changing the oil for 25k and burning stuff up or is the oil bad. And if you feel it's the oil then which product line are you referring too? Additionally, are people not checking there oil for 25k because they think they don't need to?

I want facts here. I want to know why you say what you do and which Amsoil product was in the engines you've seen fail and for how long. How much of what you've seen is the owners fault. I have a feeling it's about 100%

MUGSANDLUKE · #70 (**permalink**) 01-14-07, 03:13 PM

OK, I give up! Keep talking! TTFN

clarkz71 · #71 (**permalink**) 01-14-07, 04:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ranger

The point is that any one is "best" for your engine. It will run just as long no matter what oil you use. It's all marketing, to get your dollar.

No, not "any one". Any one that's "API starburst certified". There are plenty of oils that aren't. I've seen plain old 30 weight non-detergent oil in some stores.

clarkz71 · #72 (**permalink**) 01-14-07, 04:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Flynn

So why pay twice the price for a synthetic?

1) Because I want to
2) Because I can afford to.
3) Because as a professional automotive technician I have seen proof that over many miles there is less wear.

AlBundy · #73 (**permalink**) 01-14-07, 05:25 PM

Clark I see you hold no punches.

clarkz71 · #74 (**permalink**) 01-14-07, 05:28 PM

, I've been using Mobil 1 for years and have seen many examples of it's benifits. And as a tech, I'm going to see more examples then the average car owner.

Flynn · #75 (**permalink**) 01-14-07, 07:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by clarkz71

1) Because I want to
2) Because I can afford to.
3) Because as a professional automotive technician I have seen proof that over many miles there is less wear.

No doubt that's true. If I were going to keep a car forever I would use synthetics.

But this is my point:

I have owned many cars, and have always changed the oil & filter every 3000-4000 miles, and have never had a single problem due to lubricant failure. I used Mobil 1 for awhile, Castrol Syntec for awhile, but still changed them after 3000 miles out of pure habit, even though I knew they were good for much more.

So for me, I can live with the negligable wear disadvantage "over many miles", because by then I'll be driving something newer.