PCM P0410 Secondary Air Injection System Malfunction - Page 3

codewize · #31 (**permalink**) 06-14-08, 10:38 PM

I wanted to get you a reply but I don't know the answer to that. my problem turned out to be a simple vacuum hose knocked off by the engine cover.

I'm sure someone will chime in with good info.

Ectodude · #32 (**permalink**) 12-19-08, 11:57 PM

Hey all! Am I to believe that my CA emissions control 2000 Deville has TWO air pumps? I have 2 50 amp maxi fuses (both blown) in the underhood fuse block. 2 pumps?

codewize · #33 (**permalink**) 12-20-08, 01:00 AM

I don't think the 50a Maxi's are for the secondary air system? I could be wrong but that seems like a LOOOTTTTT of amperage for that.

Secondly each car was different. Could be 1 pump, could be no pump, could be 2 pumps.

Some where around here there's a picture of how to tell. Lets see if we can find that. I think it's the number of relays on a small bracket mounted on the right side (passenger side) of the firewall.

FrankT · #34 (**permalink**) 12-20-08, 09:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ectodude

Hey all! Am I to believe that my CA emissions control 2000 Deville has TWO air pumps? I have 2 50 amp maxi fuses (both blown) in the underhood fuse block. 2 pumps?

Yes, the 50 amp fuse is for the AIR pump, that pump has in a inrush current of close to 60 amps and has a steady current draw of 30-36 amps while running. You can see your headlamps dim when that pump turns ON.

You probably have water intrusion in both pumps, there a tsb on it to redirect the AIR pump inlet hoses. Here a quick little test you can do, disconnect both AIR pump harness connectors, replace both 50 amp fuses and drive the car normally for a few days, if the fuses don't open, then you just found out that both pumps are shorted or have water contamination.

codewize · #35 (**permalink**) 12-20-08, 09:55 AM

Wow, really? I'm very surprised. I'll be dipped. LOL

Yup water intrusion is one of the more common problems.

Both fuses are blown, Wow I'm just dumbfounded.

FrankT · #36 (**permalink**) 12-20-08, 11:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by codewize

Yup water intrusion is one of the more common problems.

Water intrusion in the AIR pump and AIR system has been an ongoing issue since 96MY and across most all of the GM platforms. Every vehicle that has the AIR pump just seems to digest water. That's one lesson they have not learned how to deal with.
ex. 2000MY Jimmy/Blazer, huge problem with water in the AIR system. There was finally a tsb that had you replace all of the AIR components with updated ones and reroute the AIR inlet hose. In fact, I still think the same problem exists with 06 -07 DTS and 6cly Envoy, go figure.

submariner409 · #37 (**permalink**) 12-20-08, 12:35 PM

Those 2 fuses are identified on the sticker inside the the fuse box cover.

turbojimmy · #38 (**permalink**) 03-09-09, 09:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FrankT

Water intrusion in the AIR pump and AIR system has been an ongoing issue since 96MY and across most all of the GM platforms. Every vehicle that has the AIR pump just seems to digest water. That's one lesson they have not learned how to deal with.

The other is how to manufacture a reliable TCC solenoid. They regularly fail on my 1987 GN, and I just replaced the one in the Caddy. The difference is on the GN it's a 20-minute job, on the Caddy it's a 20-hour job. As soon as I saw it, I became enraged. A plastic connector essentially JB-Welded to the metal solenoid body. Is it any surprise that they come apart after years of being immersed in hot oil?! I get the whole engineered-obsolescence thing, but for pete's sake, give me at least 100k miles first!

But, that's not why I resurrected this old thread. After the 20-hour TCC replacement, my SES light came back on today. When the light came on I wanted to head for the nearest tree and end it all. But I resisted the suicidal tendencies and pulled the code (you can do it while you're driving, though I don't recommend it). Thankfully the codes was not the P0741, but a P0410. I did a search and whaddya know? This thread that I posted in years ago. I know my pump is plugged in because it was the one of the last steps in putting the car back together. I'm off to check the vacuum lines as suggested by the codewize - I didn't get the P0410 until I installed the manifold beauty cover today.....

Jim

submariner409 · #39 (**permalink**) 03-10-09, 10:38 AM

A.I.R. operation is weird. Look at my post up in Deville in the "Failed NJ Inspection......" thread.

fox5flyer · #40 (**permalink**) 09-10-09, 02:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FrankT

Yes, the 50 amp fuse is for the AIR pump, that pump has in a inrush current of close to 60 amps and has a steady current draw of 30-36 amps while running. You can see your headlamps dim when that pump turns ON.

You probably have water intrusion in both pumps, there a tsb on it to redirect the AIR pump inlet hoses. Here a quick little test you can do, disconnect both AIR pump harness connectors, replace both 50 amp fuses and drive the car normally for a few days, if the fuses don't open, then you just found out that both pumps are shorted or have water contamination.

At the risk of resurrecting an old thread, I have a 2002 Seville SLS that has suddenly began to throw a P0410 code (current). There was also a history of B1860, U1000, and U1016, but I don't know if they are related.
I first checked the air pump fuse, but it was good. Not blown. Next, I tried to listen for the "vacuum cleaner sound", but I can't tell if that is what I'm hearing or just the engine in high idle (1200rpm). The high idle drops off to about 700 rpm after about 30 seconds or so.
OK, here's my question(s). Is there a way to determine if the pump is actually defective? I mean can it be checked while on the car? Or, if I remove it, can I bench check it by hooking 12V directly to it? Is it something that can be dismantled and cleaned? I just don't want to order a new pump until I'm sure that the pump I have is actually bad, as I understand that there are other things that will throw the P0410 code.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Deke
Mikado MI

submariner409 · #41 (**permalink**) 09-10-09, 02:34 PM

Jack up the driver's front wheel and remove it and the inner fender liner. The A.I.R. pump is in there, sort of under and outboard of the surge tank area. It comes out with an electrical connector and hoses. Half hour. No reason you can't jump it across 12V to see if it runs. There are replacements and kits, one of which moves the air intake hose up into the engine compartment to prevent water intrusion. (No need to do the hose insert into the intake duct, however - that's for silence, not clean air......wire tie it up in there somewhere.) Also check the gray connector/relay block which is bracketed to the passenger side strut tower. That's the A.I.R. pump feed and relay.

The U codes are data streams, usually - not a big deal. They come and go like the wind.

B1860 is the driver's lumbar seat cushion adjuster malfunction. Under seat connectors, usually.

My A.I.R. pump is quiet - very hard to hear, and it does not operate every time, cold or hot start. No codes, so I don't fool with it..........

fox5flyer · #42 (**permalink**) 09-10-09, 03:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by submariner409

Jack up the driver's front wheel and remove it and the inner fender liner. The A.I.R. pump is in there, sort of under and outboard of the surge tank area. It comes out with an electrical connector and hoses. Half hour. No reason you can't jump it across 12V to see if it runs. There are replacements and kits, one of which moves the air intake hose up into the engine compartment to prevent water intrusion. (No need to do the hose insert into the intake duct, however - that's for silence, not clean air......wire tie it up in there somewhere.) Also check the gray connector/relay block which is bracketed to the passenger side strut tower. That's the A.I.R. pump feed and relay.

The U codes are data streams, usually - not a big deal. They come and go like the wind.

B1860 is the driver's lumbar seat cushion adjuster malfunction. Under seat connectors, usually.

My A.I.R. pump is quiet - very hard to hear, and it does not operate every time, cold or hot start. No codes, so I don't fool with it..........

Thanks, Submariner. Great answers and I appreciate the quick response. As soon as I have some time I'll check it out and report back.
Deke
Mikado MI

klew122 · #43 (**permalink**) 09-30-09, 01:21 PM

I just went through the same thing with PCM P0410. Replaced the air pump and vaccuum solenoid, neither fixed the problem. It was the rear air valve, got it at junkyard for $75, better than $200 new. Finally had to find the real problem as the car would not pass emission testing for NY. It was easy to hear the difference of the front valve (which opened) when the vacuum was applied vs the rear which stayed closed. If you take the air pump hose off the valves (and they open with vaccuum), you can hear the noise from the exhaust manifold.