oil change and coolant change this friday

[GreenMachine]

Decided that on friday I'm going to change the coolant and oil in my Northstar.

Is there anything I should look out for in the coolant change process? I've read the threads about it over and over but I'd like to see if anyone has a "retual" or a "check list" they go threw when changing the oil, and when the did their coolant change.

I'm planning on using either mobil 1 10w-30 full synthetic or the Kendall 10w-30 with seal max (figured them seals could use some help and from what I read its a pretty good additive package) for the oil and the Prestone GM certified dexcool.

From what I gather I need the following:
7.5 Quarts of 10w-30 Oil and a good quality oil filter (probibly will be NAPA brand filter or AC Delco or Mobil brand based on cost)

10.68 Quarts of 50/50 water to Dexcool mix and 6 of the GM sealant supplement tablets.

Now everyone says distilled, so would that mean the purified water I can get at the supermarket in the gallon jugs would work or is water from the hose just fine?

[Ranger]

Tap water will work, but it introduces lime, calcium, iron, etc, etc. A gallon of distilled water from the grocery store is less than $1.00.

Be sure to put the tabs in the radiator hose, not the surge tank.

You won't get all the coolant out, but to help get the most out, get a shop vac and stick the nozzle in the surge tank. Reverse the hose so that it blows rather than sucks. Seal the opening with a rag. That will get some additional coolant out of the engine.

[GreenMachine]

thanks for the tips, might have some pictures but will certainly post how it went.

[white97deville]

Distilled water is normally right next to the purified water in the grocery store. The label looks the same but upon close inspection a few of the words are different.

Synthetic oils have smaller molecules and will you will get a little more seepage around your gaskets and seals from using them. There are not many fans of synthetic on this board for use in the Northstar engines. It's been covered many times in other threads....do a search and you will find info.

My personal opinion is that I wouldn't use an oil marketed as helping your seals. I just changed the oil in my Nstar and used Valvoline dino oil. Spend the xtra $$$ if you just wish to for your peace of mind....just don't expect too much from it.

[white97deville]

If it is time for a new thermostat, then you have the perfect opportunity to replace it while the cooling system is evacuated without wasting any Dexcool.

[GreenMachine]

My thermostat seems to report accurately, is there anyway to tell if its ready to go?

[Ranger]

Nope.

[white97deville]

Originally Posted by GreenMachine

My thermostat seems to report accurately, is there anyway to tell if its ready to go?

GM, the thermostat I referred to is in your water pump housing. It does not give a reading. It controls water flow through your engine/cooling system by opening/closing a valve based on the temp of the coolant. I've changed quite a few but seldom do they give any prior warning before going out.

A new one from the local Dallas parts house cost me $12.99. The dealership cost may be higher.

[GreenMachine]

Originally Posted by white97deville

GM, the thermostat I referred to is in your water pump housing. It does not give a reading. It controls water flow through your engine/cooling system by opening/closing a valve based on the temp of the coolant. I've changed quite a few but seldom do they give any prior warning before going out.

A new one from the local Dallas parts house cost me $12.99. The dealership cost may be higher.

Well just had a new pump and housing put on the car this winter, guesing the dealership probibly wouldn't have been nice enough to throw that on too :P

[JimHare]

Originally Posted by GreenMachine

Well just had a new pump and housing put on the car this winter, guesing the dealership probibly wouldn't have been nice enough to throw that on too :P

Most dealerships wouldn't put a new valve cap on without invoicing it...