4T80E heartbreak with pictures - Page 2

zonie77 · #16 (**permalink**) 03-11-06, 04:25 PM

Scorpio, ditto on parts68 question.

blunted · #17 (**permalink**) 03-13-06, 02:04 PM

Just replace the solenoids, it can't hurt and you get to inspect the valve body in the process. Also, try to drain as much of that ATF as possible.. you dont want any plastic crap floating around.
I'm prayin for u, cause I know I almost crapped myself when I found about 2 quarters worth of debris in my pan.

Zorb750 · #18 (**permalink**) 03-14-06, 05:11 AM

Heck, put a replacement valve body on it, from a junk yard or something. Then again trans parts are hard to come by at junk yards... I'd tear apart the thing and rebuild the valve body, or the replacement, then swap it. A junk yard trans will probably be $500.

onegabite1 · #19 (**permalink**) 09-23-08, 06:36 PM

I am having a simular problem, code 29, I replaced the solenoids and installed the bracket. When I first pulled the pan down, there was that same ball. and a piece of gasket, looks like possibly an accumulator gasket. I don't know. well, I figured out if I'm doing over 40, and clear the po29 the car will go into 3rd and 4th till i get below 30 again. I have been driving the car like this for a month. I pulled the VB down again. This time there was a pile of what looked loke clutch material. Now I am getting codes 29 and 94. when i'm crusing about 75 the cel comes on, trans goes into neutral unless i tach it up to about 4500 rpm. The trans is defaulting into second. the code is 94. I clear the code take off go to 40 the cel comes on, I clear the code 29 and then it shifts into 3rd and 4th again. I think I'm going to put a valve body in it. I really need to know where that check ball came from and that piece of gasket. I know it is gasket material. I have rebuilt abot 20 4L60e's. I never did a 4t80e. So i do have a slight clue as to what is going on. please help!

submariner409 · #20 (**permalink**) 09-23-08, 08:17 PM

Man, that's one way to resurrect a 2 1/2 year old thread !!!

My guess is that it's time to lower the transmission end of the cradle and do a complete overhaul. Clutch/friction material and probably bright shavings in the pan is never good.

Rebuild it. (You're not alone...there are several threads about 4T80E work over the past 2 years........do some homework.)

There's not much else to be said.....PITA, but dig in.

codewize · #21 (**permalink**) 09-30-08, 05:12 PM

Yeah, that's what my guy said when he pulled mine apart.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ranger

I don't know what it is, but it can;t be good. I'm surprised it still ran.

onegabite1 · #22 (**permalink**) 09-30-08, 11:47 PM

Well, I found a valve body for $70. I will install it when it gets here. now I have noticed that once the code 29 sets, I clear the code and leave it in diag mode, the cars shifts normally from 1st to 2nd the to 3rd at 3500 rpm and 4 normally. Every once in a while while crusing on the highway it will kick out of drive, go to neutral then right back into drive. I'm very concerned about the clutch material i saw by the scavenge pickups. I have dropped the pan since I saw it the first time and this time the pan was clean. something weird now is happening, on occasion when I start the car it seem to go into PCM reset. I get code 52,and 80. I checked the ground from the battery to the alt bracket, it is clean and tight. (new Battery) had to replace the alt when I first got the car. I also check the grounds on the bottom rear of the engine block, clean and tight. I was wondering where the ECM groud is? I'm familliar with the 4.9 not this brownstar engine. I'll replace the Valve body and check the ecm grounds (once I find out where they are). BTW the valva body i found is from a 94 $t80e no stamp on it, from an olds. I think it souuld be the same thing. I'll be posting again i'm sure, I just love my 40 mile commute wondering whats gonna go wrong next! I'll never give up my crapillac!

onegabite1 · #23 (**permalink**) 10-09-08, 09:26 AM

I replaced the valve body, problem solved. Shifts like butter and I can finally drive it like i stole it!

thu · #24 (**permalink**) 10-11-08, 01:01 AM

Glad to hear! Now, have fun on your commutes to work!

prosin · #25 (**permalink**) 11-08-08, 06:06 PM

I just dropped my pan - got the same pics as you but what confuses me is whether or not I need a new(used) valve body or if I can simply drop my valve body and thoroughly clean it. I replaced shift solenoids 6 months ago and its been acting normal - I will say there is NO CHECK BALL in my pan though.........after putting the car in drive it loses pressure and falls out of drive.....

onegabite1 · #26 (**permalink**) 11-08-08, 09:01 PM

I highly suggest you change the valve body. I worked at a caddy dealer years ago and still have alot of friends there. Thay all say the 4T80E is a bulletproof trans except for the valve body. I must of had my valve body down 5 times before I finally replaced it. THe car has been fine now for a while. I wish I would have done it sooner. I didn't want to spend alot of money on the valve body in case that was not the problem. I found someone on ebay that had a parts car and I bought the valve body with shipping cost for $70.00. Money well spent. If I were you I would try the valve body asap. Actually the one I got was from an Olds. just note that there are 2 different ones one has a stamp code on it and the other does not. Mine did not have the code. I believe I found out about the stamp code when I was shopping for a reconditioned VB. I also added the Lucas Trans additive. It's great stuff. I have to say my problem was code 29 and would go into limp mode. You may have another issue. Good luck

"I'll never give up my Crappilac"

capnfred · #27 (**permalink**) 02-10-09, 12:21 AM

did you ever figure out what the plastic was, I have the same problem, shifts 1-2 then no further, I also had a pile of crap in the pan, some plastic,,,,, for the record the balls in the solenioids are tiny, smaller than a bb, where that checkball came from is a mystery.......I have not tried resetting the codes while driving.... will try that tomrrow. I have taken the entire valve body out, I am wondering what goes wrong, its castings, machined valves, and checkballs..... when you say that you bought a valvebody did that include the steel gasket plate, and the accumulators..... thanks

Capn

onegabite1 · #28 (**permalink**) 02-10-09, 05:04 PM

Yes it included the steel plate, accu's ....was complete. I have a new problem now. My front pump is noisy and after about 14 miles she starts going in and out of TCC, then 3rd starts going in and out. I'm like totally sure it is a pressure problem. I have not put a guage on it. The pump is screaming like PS pump. I did drop the pan a few days ago hoping to find a clogged screen. it was clean. I guess I'll be getting rid of the car. I hate to say it but i'm goin jap next time. I't like a game, what new will happen today with this krappillac.

tateos · #29 (**permalink**) 02-11-09, 12:58 PM

Have you thought about a rebuilt trans?

onegabite1 · #30 (**permalink**) 02-11-09, 02:10 PM

I have thought about a reman, I found a place for about $1000 with shipping, I dont have the facilities anymore, or the back, to install it my self. I figure I'll sell the car for $1500 OBO and put that $ towards a Honda Accord. yeah< I know, like comparing apples and oranges. But I'll do a timingbelt and water pump on a honda and be good for another 90k miles.