N* Head Gasket repair part I/ Remove engine - Page 3

mtflight · #31 (**permalink**) 01-30-06, 06:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by starfox86

You know what someone should do?...Make a video of replacing the head gaskets....I would pay top dollar for that!!!..I'm sure others would too.

There will be no need for a video. TimeSert has one at http://www.timesert.com/video/Headbolt01.avi (it's 20 something Megabytes though)

cart69 · #32 (**permalink**) 01-31-06, 09:32 AM

the job doesnt seem such a big deal, when i dropped my 94's engine i had no expierence with caddys, just rwd and bike expierence, not hard at all, did it in my garage with no air tools, took about 3 hours to get it out, on the 96 i have now it will be much faster thanks to a new shop and the knowledge i have gained here!!! i will be doin my 96 within the next month or so, so if anyone wants any special pics of anything let me know so i can get them when i start on my car.

Harry Yarnell · #33 (**permalink**) 01-31-06, 11:01 AM

You WILL need to Timesert all 20 holes. Even if the headbolt comes out clean, the last thing you want is to have it strip as you're retorqueing the head.
As for time, I don't know how Partick did it in 2 hours; it took me 20 minutes per hole. Maybe I was being more cautious.
Which brings up an interesting question. I tap with a 1/2 turn in, then 1/2 turn out; then repeat til the hole's finished. What tapping regimen do you use?

Pjs · #34 (**permalink**) 02-02-06, 07:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Harry Yarnell

As for time, I don't know how Partick did it in 2 hours; it took me 20 minutes per hole. Maybe I was being more cautious.
Which brings up an interesting question. I tap with a 1/2 turn in, then 1/2 turn out; then repeat til the hole's finished. What tapping regimen do you use?

The 2 hours I quoted was for pulling the engine. I had to pull mine again a week after reinstalling it. It goes quickly when you know exactly what to do and have air tools.
As for timeserts, I've not had to do my heads, but the bottom end instead. Still 20 holes. Once I had the block prepped it was about 10 mins. per hole. It was over a year ago so I may be fuzzy on the time.

Patrick

zonie77 · #35 (**permalink**) 02-02-06, 10:47 AM

B b o b said he would drill out the holes without the guideplate. This was after doing a couple. I think that if you are careful you could do that. I would't advise it the first time or if you aren't the careful type but the old hole does guide the bit. You have a bit of play around the bolts anyway. If you don't mess with the guide plate and have a couple of drills it would be a lot faster. We took a whole evening to do it so more like 3-4 hours.

raymondk · #36 (**permalink**) 02-13-06, 02:09 AM

I just did my 93 Eldo and I'm not convinced the bottom drop was easier. I still couldn't get the engine separated from the trans because the pan hit the frame. Had to jack the trans. up on the right end to clear the frame then it fell appart. It was an awful lot of work just for a core plug, and an evaporator.

digitalcaddie · #37 (**permalink**) 10-20-06, 11:40 AM

If you guys are pulling the engines in a couple of hours why did the dealer quote me 20+ hours in labor (which equals BIG BUCKS) to replace a head gasket? Is he completely full of it?

zonie77 · #38 (**permalink**) 10-20-06, 11:48 AM

The 2-4 hours is to drop the engine...not the whole job. Things always come apart faster than going back together.

richbanta · #39 (**permalink**) 10-21-06, 10:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by zonie77

B b o b said he would drill out the holes without the guideplate. This was after doing a couple. I think that if you are careful you could do that. I would't advise it the first time or if you aren't the careful type but the old hole does guide the bit. You have a bit of play around the bolts anyway. If you don't mess with the guide plate and have a couple of drills it would be a lot faster. We took a whole evening to do it so more like 3-4 hours.

I am not sure why you would need a guide plate at all. There is no question that the drill will follow the old hole. The important part is making sure the tap goes in straight. I would also make sure the drill you are using is ground for aluminum and maybe blunt the chisel point of the drill so it would be impossible to go deeper than the hole already there. The problem with enlarging a hole already there is that the drill may grab and pull itself in. Drilling aluminum is especially prone to do this.

billytheshoe · #40 (**permalink**) 12-09-06, 09:58 AM

A guide plate will at the least will locate the holes that need to be drilled out. I am new here with some close tolorance mechining experience (7yrs)& 25 yrs experience as a mechanic. I would suggest that this proceedure of drilling out the threads be done not using a hand drill. Its true if you have the angle right to start drilling the old treads will cut away just fine and leave you a "square" bore adequate for tapping. Sometimes a drill will take its own course in alum. and dig out at an angle you dont want. This would result in a cut thread that is a few degrees off of a square-perpindicular to the head fastener. This could distort the head,the block, head gasket and clamp the head to the block in a unequal manner. The other thing that comes to mind is head torque. If you over torque a bolt in alluminum you are a thousand, maybe a million times more likely to over stress the cut threads on the alum. block than the bolt. In my opinion I would only do this proceedure to a the block mounted on a machine with the angles squared up. Is it possible G.M. over torqued these head fasteners to begin with?

timdog · #41 (**permalink**) 10-03-08, 03:06 PM

anyone can tell me how to get the front valve cover off a 1999 deville? it's stuck at t he water pump pulley,I have the water pump pulley off but the valve cover won't come off. do I have to remove the cam or something to get it off? thanks

zonie77 · #42 (**permalink**) 10-04-08, 10:38 AM

It's been a while. Try turning the engine over 1 rotation. It might be cam lobe position.

Mark C · #43 (**permalink**) 10-07-08, 01:45 PM

How you going to remove the cam if you can't get the cover off? Pickup the passenger side end of the cover to clear the cam gears and slide it towards the water pump, it will slide right off the end of the waterpump pully drive and you can pull it the rest of the way off.

BBB4455 · #44 (**permalink**) 11-03-08, 09:51 PM

zonie, i have a 99 deville. gonna do HG's this weekend. Any experience with removing the motor thru the top? Any links? haven't been able to find anything like your instructions.

zonie77 · #45 (**permalink**) 11-04-08, 01:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BBB4455

zonie, i have a 99 deville. gonna do HG's this weekend. Any experience with removing the motor thru the top? Any links? haven't been able to find anything like your instructions.

No experience cus I do things the easiest way I can. Pulling out the top is harder. Some of the bolts are very hard to get to if you pull it out the top. It was made to drop out the bottom.

97EldoCoupe runs a business that does HG's. He pulls them out the top but he is set up to do that. If you are only doing one it is faster to drop it. Read that post too.