new head gasket sealant and bolt sealant

starfox86 · #1 (**permalink**) 06-02-05, 04:58 PM

What kinda of sealant do u use when putting the new head gaskets on, or do you not use any?..I actually got to both heads with the engine still in the car. I have been working on the car for about a week now...and I now have just got them off.. I wouldnt suggest anyone doing this..it sucks...I just dont have the tools to take the engine out. ..but the heads look like they are in great shape!...not as much build up as other pictures of heads I have seen online..very pleaseed about that!..I could definitely tell where the leaks were in the gaskets, they were in bad condition....and for the head bolts...I know about putting some locktight on the bottom by the threads...but should I put some at the top near the head of the bolt??

-Dave

haymaker · #2 (**permalink**) 06-02-05, 06:12 PM

If you buy the head gasket kit the new head bolts are included with the proper sealant already on the threads and under the head of the bolts. You don’t need to add anything else to the head bolts. The new head gaskets should be installed dry. Are you installing time-serts?

starfox86 · #3 (**permalink**) 06-02-05, 07:19 PM

I didn't buy the head gasket kit..well..I bought the head bolt kit, but I havent picked it up from autozone yet....I hope the have the sealant on them. na, no time-serts..I'm only fixing this up to sell it for cheap. a 98 sts is my next purchase...Oh, a mechanic said I should have the heads cleaned and checked for cracks at a machine shop....but is that really necessary?..I don't really want to spend another 120 to get that done.
And time-serts...How do they work?..What does it do?..do you just put an insert in , and then put new threads in?

nukeduster · #4 (**permalink**) 06-02-05, 07:38 PM

I always use permatex copper gasket sealant spray. Works really well. Used it on a number of turbocharged motors and have no complaints. I wouldnt recommend putting anything on the threads of your bolts though. Factory torque specs. usually are for bolts which aren't coated in lubricant or anything.

And a cheap way to check if your head is warped is just run a metal straight edge over the top of the head, if it rocks from side to side *at all* you know its warped. Cracks? Well, thats best left to them, but I've rebuilt plenty of motors without sending them off to have them inspected for cracks. Then again, I'm cheap.

haymaker · #5 (**permalink**) 06-02-05, 08:23 PM

Here is the link to the time-sert website http://www.timesert.com/ . You will gain a better understanding of the time-sert and its usage by reading the material on their site. Did any of the old head bolts carry thread from the cylinder block at disassembly? If so the time-serts will be needed (at minimum) in those holes? Many of the head bolts on my N* carried the block threads out as they were removed so time-serting was necessary. Going by the posts on this forum the cylinder heads don’t seem to have a problem with cracking or warping. I just cleaned and did a visual inspection then used a good straight edge and feeler gauge to check for flatness on my N* cylinder heads. That was at around 77,000 miles and having endured several overheats but both heads checked out within a few thousands of flat so I stuck them right back on. If your worried about them, have them checked.

**Ranger** · #6 (**permalink**) 06-02-05, 09:24 PM

Be advised, from what I have read, if you don't pull a thread removing the head bolts, you may very well pull them as you torque it down. Then you'll have to pull everythin loose again and start over. Not to mention, if you get lucky and don't pull any threads removing or installing, it may fail a few thousand miles later. You'd be well advised to Timesert it now. It would be a shame to go through all this work for nothing, whether you own it or the next guy does.