New '98 Deville Owner with coolant questions - Page 3

cadillac_al · #31 (**permalink**) 01-31-09, 08:34 AM

It's just a matter of time before it needs head gaskets. The previous owner knew that and unloaded it. You have an open and shut case to get your money back. I had a friend that sold a vehicle and the engine died shortly afterward. He got sued in small claims court and had to refund the money; simple as that. You have the invoice that verified the engine needs "replacement". You really should get your money back or at least some money back for the head gasket job if you really like the car. Good luck.

olsonscottm · #32 (**permalink**) 07-28-09, 12:23 AM

Yep, it's head gaskets. I've got the engine out and the left head almost ready to come out. Right now I'm stuck trying to remove the water pump drive pulley without forking over $100 bucks for the "special" tool. Any suggestions?

I hope to have the car back together in two or three weeks. And yes, I've got the stud kit on order, should be here next week.

Scott
Palmer, AK

**Ranger** · #33 (**permalink**) 07-28-09, 11:28 AM

That pulley tool is a P/S pump pulley remover. Should be able to pick one up for a lot less than $100.

olsonscottm · #34 (**permalink**) 07-29-09, 12:38 AM

Right you are Ranger, I lucked out and found a GM power steering pump pulley puller (I love saying that!) and got the water pump drive pulley off tonight.
Next, removing the crankshaft balancer, front cover, and then the left head.
Stud kit will be in sometime next week.
Head gaskets still need to be ordered. Is it worth the extra money to get dealer head gaskets or will Fel-Pro work as well?
Looking forward to getting this thing done, back together and driving my Caddy again.

Scott
Palmer, AK

**Ranger** · #35 (**permalink**) 07-29-09, 01:11 PM

I think Jake uses Felpro.

olsonscottm · #36 (**permalink**) 07-30-09, 12:08 AM

If Jake uses Fel-pro, that's good enough for me.

olsonscottm · #37 (**permalink**) 09-16-09, 03:42 AM

UPDATE:

Completed the head gasket repair!! Used Jake's stud kit - highly recommended!

But now I have a low oil pressure problem at hot idle. I changed the oil pressure sending unit but the problem persists. Probably bearings. Not sure what to do now. Maybe run 10w40? No oil pressure problems above about 800 rpm's.

Scott
Palmer, AK
1998 Deville

submariner409 · #38 (**permalink**) 09-16-09, 10:09 AM

Check the torque on the crankshaft pulley: proper torque is essential to assure correct oil pump drive - it's driven by clamping friction of the balancer itself.

The bolt must be torqued to 37 ft/lb and then further rotated 120 degrees. You must lock the crankshaft to get this torque, so remove the flywheel (flexplate) cover under the bottom of engine/transmission joint and use something to lock the flexplate teeth.

olsonscottm · #39 (**permalink**) 09-16-09, 11:06 AM

When I put the crankshaft balancer back on when the engine was out, I did just that. Actually, I torqued the bolt to 40 ft-lbs and then went the additional 120 degrees.

When I started the engine for the first time, I didn't have any oil pressure so I shut it down. I then removed the right front wheel and splash shield and tightened the bolt another 3/4 to 1 turn, fired up the engine and had oil pressure.

I have oil pressure when cold, and when warm, but after driving down the highway, the light will come on below about 800 rpm. I don't have an oil temperature gauge, but the oil temp has to be in the 150-175 degree range by then.

The car doesn't get hot anymore, so the head gasket issue is fixed. I just hope I didn't fix an engine with bigger problems.

Scott

**Ranger** · #40 (**permalink**) 09-16-09, 01:00 PM

I doubt it. You had no oil pressure problems before the HG job. It has to be something you did or did not do. Oil pumps and the lower ends on these engine seem to be very reliable.

submariner409 · #41 (**permalink**) 09-16-09, 01:56 PM

If you did the original torque sequence, had no oil pressure, then "tightened" the crank dampener bolt another 3/4 turn, something is wrong. You should not be able to turn that bolt 1/4 turn if it was properly done in the first try - you wind up with close to 200 ft/lb of torque there - practically impossible to go any farther without long extensions or a 3 foot pipe on the end of the torque wrench.

**Ranger** · #42 (**permalink**) 09-16-09, 03:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by submariner409

If you did the original torque sequence, had no oil pressure, then "tightened" the crank dampener bolt another 3/4 turn, something is wrong. You should not be able to turn that bolt 1/4 turn if it was properly done in the first try - you wind up with close to 200 ft/lb of torque there - practically impossible to go any farther without long extensions or a 3 foot pipe on the end of the torque wrench.

Not that it makes much difference, but I thought I once heard something like 320. Either way you are right, it should be TIGHT.

olsonscottm · #43 (**permalink**) 09-16-09, 11:14 PM

The only thing I can think of is that when I put the crankshaft balancer back on I got to 37 lb-ft of torque before the balancer was seated completely. If that's the case, then I can see how I could get more turns out of the bolt.

That may very well mean that I installed it incorrectly. Hard to see how that happened though. I mean, it it's supposed just slide on, put the bolt in the only hole available, and tighten. You'd think if I could do the head gaskets, I could do the balancer.

Any and all thoughts greatly appreciated.

Scott

submariner409 · #44 (**permalink**) 09-17-09, 10:42 AM

No criticism here, Scott.

That crank bolt is an obscure reason for oil pressure problems in a Northstar, so it's worth a look, which is why I did the entire 37 + 120 shtick.

IF there were a burr on the crank snout or in the balancer bore, then it's entirely possible that 37 ft/lb would be reached before the hub was seated on the oil pump face. You have now probably fully seated the hub, so the hour required to go back, slack off the bolt, and go through the torque sequence may well solve your low speed oil pressure. It's only a recommendation, but it addresses a common problem. There are other possibilities, including an air leak into the oil pump pickup line, but you weren't that far into the engine to disturb that.

Way back in here there were threads on how to overfill the engine to clear a pick up tube air lock from a stuck drainback valve - that also leads to a "no oil pressure" on start because the oil pump is higher than the oil level, it's a gerotor, so must be always primed. No easy answers, just thoughts............

EDIT at 0955. Just saw your other post on the same subject - hope it worked. Tight, huh ?

submariner409 · #45 (**permalink**) 09-17-09, 04:25 PM

Thought I'd put this next to the same question - different thread.