Wow no answers yet huh. Well I'm not at all familiar with the situation. I understand the problem but not sure of locations and such.

If I had to choose I'd cut the floor before anything else.

 

I didn't have that problem (luckily!). I would think the access to the top of the nut is going to be through the floor.

 

I actually went in through the inner fender behind the wheel. I cut 2 6" lines that intersected with my die grinder, used a pry bar to open it up, knocked off the speed nut, put my 1" wrench in there and cranked the bolt with my impact. Then I bent the metal back, mig'd it shut, undercoat and done. It was very easy. That loose bolt was driving me nuts giving a weird front end noise, all quiet now, thank anyways, chuck

 

Interesting. So there is a nut in there that is hidden but can be accessed through the hole you cut? The nut itself was OK - it had just lost the lock to the body subframe and was spinning and all you needed to do was put a wrench on it?

 

Tateos, they have a thin metal bracket wrapped around the nut to hold it. Not that strong, easy to bend/break.

 

OK - thanks zonie. I didn't have any problem in that area, so I never noticed it or even thought about it.

I did have a similar problem with a couple of the bolts that attach one of the braces that go across the exhaust tunnel. These braces were added as one of several things they did to stiffen the structure, starting in '96 or '97. My brace had been bent up and interfered with the exhaust after I ran over something on the highway at night. I ended up cutting with a Sawzall the bolts that hold the brace on. I intended to straighten the brace and re-affix it somehow, but I have been driving around with it off for 6 months and haven't noticed any difference, so I'm going to just leave it off.