97 Etc N* Head Gasket Project

[AJxtcman]

Originally Posted by krechtr

Got the motor back together today... no problems with the inserts. I am ready to put it back in the car tomorrow morning but have haven't installed the harmonic balancer yet. My neighbor told me that it has to be lined up to work correctly but I don't see any marks on the timing chain cover or the balancer to line up with. I am doing this work from AJ's post on the Fiero website but it doesn't mention it. Anyone have info?

It can go on at any position. Just make sure it is tight.

[ewill3rd]

If you didn't mark it when you took it off, no point in worrying about indexing the balancer now.
Just put it on, there is no keyway to align it with.
Torque is pretty important but without the proper tools it will be hard to set it at the factory spec.
It is really high.

[97Concours1]

Originally Posted by krechtr

Got the motor back together today... no problems with the inserts...

I don't want to beat a dead horse, but what did you have success with in your case? Torque: 22'#+60deg+60deg+60deg? Aftermarket (Rockauto?) bolts? Just curious.

[krechtr]

Originally Posted by 97Concours1

I don't want to beat a dead horse, but what did you have success with in your case? Torque: 22'#+60deg+60deg+60deg? Aftermarket (Rockauto?) bolts? Just curious.

Actually felpro bolts from partstrain. 22 plus three passes of 60%... No issues whatsoever.

Thanks for the info AJ! I am going out to the garage now to install that balancer.

I have the day off so my goal is to get the car running tonight so the paint work can be done tomorrow.

[submariner409]

Don't forget that the oil pump gear is driven by the crank, and that the balancer torque is critical to the oil pump function. I think you're looking at over 200 ft/lb of torque. The '02 FSM calls for 37 ft/lb first pass then 120 degrees..... that's a lot for a big bolt........you need to lock the flexplate to do it. You also need to prime the oil pump before you bolt everything up because the pump sits above the full oil level and will not self-prime.

[tateos]

Worked on my project a little last night - how far on the camshaft should the water pump pulley go? Is the pulley hub supposed to be flush with the end of the camshaft? There is no stop and I don't remember how it was before I took it off...

Thanks guys

[jbrenn7000]

tateos, hi, i'm working on doing the HG in 94 deville concours.....easier to take harmonic balancer bolt loose before removing engine. I unhooked the coil wires so car does not start.....THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT..... than with the socket and wrench on the bolt, i positioned the end of the wrench so that it would hit the ground or stabilizer arm when I cranked the engine. I cranked the engine for about 1 second or 2 until I heard the thud of the wrench hit the ground vwalla! bolt was loose.... have had to do this several times to remove a harmonic balancer bolt......sometimes the first try does not work and it has to be set up again for a second or third try.... I learned this trick from a mechanic friend that had his own shop for about 15 yrs. if your engine is already out, try some break free on it, and tap it a little to jar it and break to bond, if you use a 6 point socket, you can not round the corners on the bolt. if too late for that, file down to next smaller six point socket size and you will get it. if out of car, you may need a 12-15' pole on the end of you wrench, use a 1/2 in drive.

[krechtr]

Tateos... maybe my motor was dirtier than yours but it was obvious where my water pump pully was suppose to stop. Also, if you look straight down you can line it up pretty close with the pully on the pump. Also... got the motor back under the car and got most of the wires and hoses connected... taking a break for lunch. We may even be able to get this thing fired up tonight (crossing my fingers). If this doesn't work I will post a picture of me blowing the car up in the desert.

[tateos]

OK Tom - good luck - let us know how it works out - maybe I will come down and visit again and see how you did. I want to see the fender paint job also.

jbrenn7000 - thanks for the advice - all good advice - I have used that trick before, but did not think there was a good place to wedge the breaker bar. Anyway, I did finally get the bolt off after the engine was OUT of the car and I will install a new bolt - the old one was way too mangled

Richard Moore

[krechtr]

Didn't get it done today. You were right about the half shats Tateos... they are a bear. We got the left side done and will finish the right in the morning (I have to find those straps you were telling me about)... I didn't take some of the stuff apart so I wasn't sure how it went back together and I ended up breaking the belt tensioner trying to put it back together so I guess I get to go junk-yard hunting (or pay way too much at the dealer). Got a lot of the tough stuff done today and I think we just have "buttoning up" stuff to do tomorrow.... hopefully we can get it running and start on the paint prep. I need to get this thing done! Too many projects, not enough time.

[tateos]

Tom - you can buy the tensioner at any parts store - Checker - Auto Zone - NAPA - whatever. I tried to find the cv joint boot clamps, but no one had one big enough - not even the dealer. I ended up using the old clamp and used end nippers to compress the clamp and a screwdriver to force it on. Call me to discuss if you want - you still have my work #, right?

[krechtr]

Still not running but closer. Turns out that the heater core broke and I had to replace that (they made the part the heater hose hook ups out of plastic... what kind of crap is that?!?!?!). Wanted to crank it tonight but the battery is dead. Put the charger on it and tomorrow morning I just have a buy a new hose and fix a few broken vacumm lines to fix and route and hopefully I can get it running in the morning. For some reason I can't see where the large vacumn line for the brake booster goes so I will have to figure that out too. Oh, I found the tentioner at a local wrecking yard for $20.

[krechtr]

It's alive. If that hose connection would have been a snake it would have bit me. Got a bad whining noise that i have to diagnose (may be that stupid tentioner I got at the wrecking yard). It's running though and that is a step in the right direction.

[krechtr]

Okay. There is a very loud, very high pitched squeal coming the driver's side of the motor. At first I thought it may be the water pump pulley connected to the cam (it may still be) or the tensioner for the WP belt so I took the belt off and cranked the car... still squealed. The pulley is straight and appears to be lined up perfectly. The belt is good. Would something make the throttle body squeal like that? I replaced the TB gasked and torqued it to spec. It sound like the squeal is coming from that area. The car starts and idles great. Any ideas would be appreciated.

[Rafterd]

Does the squeel vary with engine speed? Is it maybe a high pitch wistle? Vacume line maybe, but might idle rough if it was that.???? Spray some starting fluid in that area and see if the engine speeds up. If so Vacume leak somewhere.

Bill