97 Etc N* Head Gasket Project - Page 12

Rafterd · #**166** (**permalink**) 02-25-08, 09:54 PM

Yes I have one of those also. It does use a lot of air, but works good. I think you also have to regulate the air pressure to around 50 - 60 lbs.

Bill

tateos · #**167** (**permalink**) 02-26-08, 11:00 AM

Thanks for the feedback on the vacuum pump guys - the compressor I have I also bought at Harbor Freight - it is a pretty small one - maybe 12 gallons? - rated at 5 CFM @90 PSI, but I doubt that is true - it has a hard time keeping up with my impact wrench. Here is a picture for BigJon of the engine/trans/steering on the cradle just before going in:

BigJon · #**168** (**permalink**) 02-26-08, 03:57 PM

looks like it coming along great for ya. i brought a 26 gal 1.5 hp air compressor i cant wait to start. got any other pictures ?

krechtr · #**169** (**permalink**) 02-27-08, 04:55 PM

Much drama at my house and haven't touched the caddy other than to FINALLY get the title in my hand... turns out it is a 98; not a 99. Tateos I am sorry that I never sent you any pics but my life turned very hectic very fast. Sounds like you are right on the edge of catching up to me (hopefully with out the squeal). I looked for a coolant reservoir at a junk yard but haven't found one yet. I may end up having to go to the dealer for this part. My plan is to spend a few more hours trying to find out what the damn noise is and if I can't I will take it to a buddy of mine that has a shop and hopefully he can figure it out. I will let you know when I find out what it is.

tateos · #**170** (**permalink**) 02-28-08, 11:24 AM

No problem Tom - I figured it out. I recommend you get the coolant reservoir from GMPartsDirect.com - I did a couple years ago when mine started to leak from the area where the small hose connects (I think they all do that eventually).

Here is what I paid 12/28/05 - much less than the local dealer:

1 3540041 TANK ASM- 1.240 47.25
HANDLING CHARGE 3.43
Comments:
3,17858803270 Subtotal: $50.68
Freight: $6.97
NC Tax: $0.00
Core Charge: $0.00
Misc: $0.00
Total: $57.65

I have bolted on the intake manifold, the oil filter is on, the crankcase is filled - I am pretty close. I just need to charge the AC, install the battery, install the fans and radiator, hook up the vacuum line and wiring under the dash, refill with coolant, and I think I am ready to go. I estimate another 4 hours or so - I don't rush - so I expect the car to be running by this Saturday.

jevanof · #**171** (**permalink**) 02-28-08, 11:43 PM

Wow, that was alot of reading, my HG failed, I am not happy to say that I will be starting this soon. I plan to take my time also. I was wondering why you removed the engine from the tanny, couldent you just pull the engine and tranny, make the repair and install the engine?

BigJon · #**172** (**permalink**) 02-29-08, 12:20 AM

he replaced some other gaskets like the rear main seal which is behind the fly wheel

jevanof · #**173** (**permalink**) 02-29-08, 02:18 AM

ok I am just courus here but why cant you pull the engine from the top? Is it possable?

BigJon · #**174** (**permalink**) 02-29-08, 11:23 AM

it is possable but some people say it easier some say it harder so i guess it just a personal thing.

tateos · #**175** (**permalink**) 02-29-08, 12:12 PM

Joe - don't even think about taking it out the top! I also read all the posts about dropping the cradle and I STILL tried to take it out the top. I regretted that - I found it was pretty much impossible, so I decided to take the entire assembly out the bottom and that was EASY. Not only was it easy to take out, I was able to see how much re-assembly was possible OUT of the car, which was much easier. When I installed the cradle, the engine was nearly completely assembled - even alternator/AC compressor/PS pump and the drive belt were already on; that was much easier than hanging over the fender or grill and bolting that stuff up. So, I leaned that it is much easier to disassemble and then re-assemble the engine and it's accessories. Jon is right that I had to change my oil pan gasket and rear main seal, and I also had to change my steering rack, so that was easier with the cradle out also. I unbolted the struts from the strut towers and the knuckles and wired the knuckles to the cradle so the inner CV joints will not overextend and come apart internally.

Please trust us and just drop the cradle - it is NOT hard to do and you will save yourself a lot of trouble!

BigJon · #**176** (**permalink**) 02-29-08, 12:26 PM

hey rich, how did you replace the gasket lift the motor up? and on an engine stand or? and where did you bolt a chain to so you could pick the motorup?

tateos · #**177** (**permalink**) 02-29-08, 02:10 PM

Jon:

To remove the block from the cradle, I used the old cylinder head bolts after I had installed the inserts and lifted with 2 on each side. Then, I put the engine down on the back/flywheel side on a piece of scrap carpet on the floor, and then rolled it over onto the top of the engine so the engine was upside down onto two by fours. I replaced the oil pan gasket and rear main seal and oil level sensor (hard to do with the engine in the cradle due to clearance issues) with the block in this position. Remember, there are 4 torque converter to flywheel bolts. Also, I had to jack up the transmission along with the block to gain clearance in the front.

Does that help?

jevanof · #**178** (**permalink**) 03-01-08, 02:41 AM

Can you put the engine on a stand and do the TimeSert repair?

tateos · #**179** (**permalink**) 03-03-08, 02:00 PM

The engine is in the car, it is running well, I just got it emissions tested this morning - it passed easily, and it is registered and insured and back on the road!

I got the last few things hooked up on Friday night and Saturday morning, and I filled it with coolant and disconnected the connector on the ignition module. I cranked it for 20-30 seconds to build up oil pressure, then reconnected the connector, and turned it over and it started right up - almost like it had been running all along. I charged the AC - I just need a FE alignment and I will be all set.

A couple minor issues to resolve:

1. I do have a small coolant leak on the front driver's side of the engine - in the water pump area. I see a few drops of coolant on my garage floor. I will check it out in the next few days. I hope it is not coming from the coolant crossover where it connects to the block and heads! I would not want to have to change that with the engine in the car. I guess it could be coming from the water pump, where the water pump meets the crossover, the water pump cover, or the lower hose.

2. I also need to adjust the trans shift linkage a little.

3. Also, I changed the steering rack and it is kind of hard to turn - especially at slow speeds. I hooked up the Magnasteer connector, so I'm not sure what is going on with the steering. I will check it out as time permits.

zonie77 · #**180** (**permalink**) 03-03-08, 02:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jevanof

Can you put the engine on a stand and do the TimeSert repair?

If you are leaving the engine and trans on the cradle you don't need a stand. The cradle acts like one. It's easy to do the timeserts while on the cradle.