Oil missing from pan

[harold4]

Temps have been the same since I got it, 198-206F with 80F outside temp the past two days. I did notice a VERY light amount of smoke when I opened the cap. From time to time I do notice a slight oil burning smell after parking the car and walking past the hood.

I think part of it is I like this '98 so much I want it to run like it's off the lot.

[Ranger]

Something is just not sitting right with me. I recall the Guru once mentioning just how much oil the Northstar pumps at WOT. While the exact number escapes me, it was a LOT, and thus it has to drain back a LOT real fast so as not to oil starve. I cannot imagine todays oils getting so sludged up as to clog those drains, unless the oil has NEVER been changed. If that where the case, the upper heads and cam area would most likely look like pudding and I suspect you'd be having lubrication problems by now. Is it possible that you are misreading the stick? Take a reading before you start the engine and again after shut down. How close are the two readings?

[harold4]

It is the red tipped stick, which is a pain to read at times, but I'll upload a few pics in the morning; pre and post start, as well as a pic of inside the cap to see if that helps shed any light.

[harold4]

'x' marks the spot

This morning before starting the car, oil at max
<ADD| | | | x|MAX|----------------------------


After 30 miles, I parked with the car still running
<ADD|x | | | |MAX|----------------------------


After waiting 10 minutes
<ADD| | | x| |MAX|----------------------------


I was unable to get a good shot of the stick with the point and shoot canon cam, but the inside of the cap and under the car turned out. Again, there has never been oil spots on the ground under the car.

BIG IMAGES

[jadcock]

It certainly sounds like a block drain is plugged somewhere. But that'd be a lot of pluggage going on for it to retain that much oil.

Where is the oil reading DIRECTLY after you turn it off? You say it's low with the car still running (should be), but then your other check is after 10 minutes. What about 30 seconds after turning it off?

[harold4]

After 30 seconds
<ADD| |x | | |MAX|----------------------------

[Harry Yarnell]

Lets get a few things straight. There ARE no 'block drains'. If you're talking about drainback from the cam areas, then the drain back is the chain case. HUGE cave-like structure; right back to the sump.That's it.

Never check oil level (dipstick) with the engine runnig. Splash will give false readings.

Personally I think this is a non-issue.

[harold4]

What is the 'normal' time it takes from shutdown to full oil pan?

[Ranger]

Should be no more than just a minute or two. There will probably be some oil dripping back into the sump for at least 1/2 hour or more, but that will be minimal. Checking the level while running is meaningless as the oil is being pumped throughout the engine. I too am starting to think you are worried about nothing.

[harold4]

I'll keep an eye on it and gladly chalk it up to worrying about nothing.

Do the images linked above look concerning at all?

EDIT: Thanks for all the quality feedback

[submariner409]

One of these days, when you're out shopping for car stuff, pick up a couple of WIX 51522 oil filters. Prefill one with the same oil as is in the engine. REMOVE THAT FRAM FILTER. (You'll need a drain pan to catch the 1/2 quart from the oil cooler) For your education, compare the inlet hole area of the two filters. Install the WIX, screw it up a bit more than healthy hand tight, clean up the mess, and go for a short drive. Then, with the engine off for 5 minutes, top up the oil level to 1/2 way up the hashmark or just a bit more. <ADD| | | X | | |FULL>
...........Just for grins, clamp the old filter gently in a vise and, using a fine tooth hacksaw (or better, lathe), cut around the case about 1/4" from the tapping plate. (Stuff a rag under the mess.) Remove the tapping plate assembly and pull the filter media out of the case. With a sharp knife cut around the media in order to remove the top and bottom plates. Break off 10-15 fold pieces of the media, and press the accordion firmly in the vise to squeeze most of the remaining oil out. Unfold the accordion and look at the OUTSIDE crease areas (disregard the orange case chips) in order to see any metallic pieces or gasket remnants. Anything other than minimal metallic dust is cause for concern. Bright, shiny flakes are aluminum (piston). Dull gray flakes are bearing metal or timing chain/gear. Dark gray, maybe shiny, is iron (cylinder liner). You could also go online to find an oil analysis laboratory, spend the $25, and get a chemistry report on exactly what's in (or not in) your oil. Fun

[harold4]

I still have the old filter from the change this weekend; I appreciate the tip.

This doesn't quite merit a new topic, so I'll fire off the question here. I had my brakes/rotors replaced and for the few hundred miles I've driven with them, I've been getting a light metallic rubbing noise out of the driver side wheel well. The frequency is mutually inclusive to the speed of the car. There has also been a screeching noise when stopping. The screeching occurs until the brake pedal is > 60-70% down.

A friend of mine suggested driving the car in reverse (safely, of course) to "auto adjust" what he suspects to be uneven brake pad height. If this worth attempting and if so, what speed is needed to "trigger" the car to do this. If the lack of search results is any indication... :-P

[Ranger]

Cam cover Picture looks pretty normal from what I can see. The underside is an obvious leak. Might simply be an oil filter adapter gasket or oil cooler line fitting.

Brake noise might just be the pad composition if it is a squeal. Otherwise an inspection is in order.

[Harry Yarnell]

The backing up to adjust your brakes is from the old days with drum brakes. Modern braking systems are self adjusting; need no input from the driver.

[harold4]

Took the cadi 300 miles today with the MMO in the pan and checked the oil level about 30 seconds after parking... sure enough, it's right where it should be.

Just purchased the 3 vol. manual set off ebay. Software Engineering went from hobby to Degrees/Career, so the Eldo is my newest hobby/obsession. If only they came out w/ an Eldo for '08... <insert dead horse gif>

Again, thanks guys.