Automobile(s): 2005 White Diamond STS N* 1SF RWD ACC/HUD
Well, I did my first oil change on the new motor in my car. Wow! It is really scary how much metal new engines can make while they are breaking in! The magnetic drain plug had a little "afro". That was at 500 miles, I think I will change the oil and filter again in 500 miles.
Yeah, I have heard that the best thing to do with any new engine is an oil change at 500, 1,000, 2,000, 3,000, and then the normal amount of miles. May be overkill, but maybe spending $50 now will save a repair later!
If you want a real eye-opener, using a lathe or hacksaw, cut the "top" off the old oil filter. Pull out the paper element and carefully cut around the top and bottom plates. Remember that oil flows in from the "outside" of the element, then flows out through the center tube. Take the pleated paper, in several sections, and squeeze it dry in a vise, accordion style. Pull the paper flat and determine which was the "in" side and the "out" side. (You'll know by the junk on one side). The amount of aluminum flakes and sealant blobs, on the "in" side of the first filter after overhaul, will amaze you. Next change, do the same. There should be nearly nothing in that filter, or any subsequent ones. If, a year or so down the road, you begin to get either bearing metal or aluminum flakes in a filter, suspect a coming problem. 90% of the "dirt" created by an engine in its lifetime is trapped by the first filter.
Full flow oil filters were adopted to reduce the amount of cleanup required when motors are manufactured. I have disassembled new motors in the crate direct from the manufacturer for "blueprinting" and on the average found about 1/2 teaspoon of machining chips and foundary sand in the bottom of the oil pan. On startup all the oil goes through the filter so it is all trapped. In the good old days of bypass filters it all went through the bearings. The bypass filters did trap a lot finer stuff so the oil looked cleaner longer.