Northstar Engines and System Technical Discussion Discussion, My .02 on Carbon in Cadillac Engine Discussion; I don't know how this works on the N* since I have only 22k on mine. But, on other cars ...
- 02-14-04 07:56 PM #1Cadillac Owners Member
- Join Date
- Feb 2004
My .02 on Carbon
I don't know how this works on the N* since I have only 22k on mine. But, on other cars I have owned (one being my Bronco 351 with 159k) and wow. SeaFoam SeaFoam SeaFoam.
You take your vacuum line from your master cylinder and slowly suck the stuff into the engine....being sure not to stall it out. Shut it off, wait 15 minutes and pound the crap outta it. And watch your neighbors flick you off as you leave a cloud of smoke all the way down the block ;-)
Run it near empty, poor a can in your tank, and one in your crankcase...Fill'r up and change your oil after about 500 miles. Dropping the oil pan is a plus, but not needed.
- 02-16-04 11:44 PM #2Cadillac Owners Fanatic
- Automobile(s): 2000 DTS
- Join Date
- Oct 2003
- Fort Myers, FL
Re: My .02 on Carbon
After 100k, the only carbon in my N* was right on the piston heads. No where was there any sludge, not even much carbon on the valves. I'd save the time and money and just keep flooring it. Works just as good and is 10 times the fun.
- 02-17-04 12:08 PM #3
Re: My .02 on Carbon
Personally I would never condone running any sorts of solvents thru the engine...specifically on a regular basis and especially in the oil sump.
I would NEVER dilute the crank case fill with any sort of solvent. Since that engine was manufactured the engine oils on the market are virtually immune to sludge and deposit formation. The idea of sludge in the crankcase and excessive carbon deposits in the crank case are the product of old wives tales from the oils of the 40's and 50's. We are not talking about some relec engine that ran last in the 40's.....that engine has always had superior lubricants in it from day one so there will not be any sludge or deposits to warrant any sort of crank case cleaning.
If you are concerned about carbon in the combustion chambers then quit driving like a weeny and floor it occasionally. An occasional WOT burst to a redline upshift is all it takes to keep the combustion chambers clean. On the rare occasion that an engine has been grandma'd to death and the rings are stuck in carbon the top engine cleaner that GM sells is specifically designed and developed to soften the carbon...or the "deep carbon cleaning" might have to be done. In either case, the real cure afterwards is "spirited" driving to keep the chambers clean and the rings exercised.
NEVER NEVER put solvents of any sort in an empty tank. If the key is activate to run the fuel pump before it is filled to dilute the harsh solvents the fuel pump can be ruined due to the solvents eating the insulation off the armature windings. If you really really feel the need for a cleaner or gas treatment then add it to a full tank at the gas station. NEVER put it in an empty tank and drive to the station. I know of one specific case where the owner put a can of gas treatment in an empty tank and drove two miles to the gas station to fill up. He lost the fuel pump before the tank was empty.
- 02-17-04 06:30 PM #4
Re: My .02 on Carbon
bbob- What do you think about putting ATF in the crankcase as a way to clean sludge... My car has been abused (probably a few +7000mi oil changes) and I was wondering if theres anyway to clean it up that you recommend..
I also second the WOTing..... I did a can of seafoam ONCE (to get out all the residual crap from the previous owners) and I dont think it did any harm, however I didnt really notice any difference...
Fuel additives only do so much, as Ive said before there really isnt anything you can add to the tank that will CLEAN fuel injectors... They can maybe make them better, but wont get them as new clean... If you want that you gotta do a pressurized fuel rail flush...
However, if there's one fuel additive that I love its BG44k... I used this stuff on a long road trip, and my city mileage went up from 10ish to 15... Im not saying this is the case but this is the best stuff you can buy... if your gonna get results you will get it from this stuff......
- 02-17-04 11:45 PM #5
Re: My .02 on CarbonOriginally Posted by elwesso
The only thing that belongs in the crankcase is engine oil. Period. Trans fluid is another one of those old wives tales. Forget you ever heard it. 7000 miles on an oil change is not improbably under good conditions so what is to worry?? Even under extreme conditions the oil life monitor will usually allow 3000 or so and there is a safety factor of about 2 in the oil life algoithm. I wouldn't worry about it in the least. You do not need to "clean" the crankcase. There is nothing in there that will hurt anything. The modern oils since your engine was built are easily capable of an occasional 7000 mile change even under non-optimum conditions and the fresh oil you are using now has plenty of detergents and dispersants in it to clean the crankcase if required. Forget the idea of trans fluid in the crankcase.
An occsional WOT has shown time and time again to eliminate carbon from the chambers and continued 'exercising" can even free up carbon sticky rings. We see oil consumption complaint engines from the field that have been driven SO easy that the rings have never even mated to the sides of the ring lands. Hammer it frequently. It likes it and was made to run that way.
I find it hard to believe that any sort of gas additive improve fuel economy from 10 to 15 if I understand you correctly. You would have had to have a stuck open injector that the solvent miraculously cleaned up....just doesn't happen in the real world from my experience.
Realize the the fuel in the system contacts the windings in the fuel pump directly as well as the windings in the injectors. Most any of the solvents that I have seen that can clean varnish and deposits from injectors will also clean the insulation off the windings in the injectors and fuel pump causing eventual failure. Regular injector cleanings and such are just not required and I would only use some sort of solvent in the tank or the rail as a very last resort in the event of a stuck open injector or something. Most all the failed fuel pumps that I analyzed years ago were failed due to harsh solvents introduced into the system causing the pump armature to eventually short out. I just do not believe in solvents and gas treatments. Sorry.