'94 SLS Crankshaft pully
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Northstar Engines and System Technical Discussion Discussion, '94 SLS Crankshaft pully in Cadillac Engine Technical Discussion; This is probably a dumb question, but here it is; My mechanic remove the pully and I did not get ...
  1. #1
    Reactor is offline Cadillac Owners Member
    Automobile(s): '94 STS, '94 SLS, '72 couple deville
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    Question '94 SLS Crankshaft pully

    This is probably a dumb question, but here it is;

    My mechanic remove the pully and I did not get a chance to see it before he did it. Now I have to put it back on, I expected it to have a key for alignment like balancers have. There is no key, and no way of telling what position is the right one.

    Does it matter what position the pully goes on?

    if so, how is it marked, and how would I get it aligned?

    thanks for your help

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  3. #2
    chance_b's Avatar
    chance_b is offline Cadillac Owners Member
    Automobile(s): '94 pearl sts
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    Re: '94 SLS Crankshaft pully

    Someone correct me if I'm wrong about this,

    I noticed on my '94 STS that the end of the crankshaft was notched, but the pulley wasn't.. leading me to believe the pulley was replaced,

    Anyway though, I'm pretty certain you don't need to worry about it. Just make sure you torque the damper bolt down really tight so nothing ends up slipping (can't remember torque spec, sorry, but it's gotta be reefed on).

  4. #3
    Ranger's Avatar
    Ranger is offline Cadillac Owners Member
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    Re: '94 SLS Crankshaft pully

    I think you are correct in that there is no alignment key, though I am not positive. It does require a high torque, something like 300 lb/ft. If not torqued correctly, the oil pump will slip and you'll loose oil pressure.

  5. #4
    chevelle is offline Cadillac Owners Enthusiast
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    Re: '94 SLS Crankshaft pully

    There is no alignment feature on the damper. Just slip it on. Since there are no timing marks on the damper and it is symmetrically balanced there is no need for a key or alignment.

    There is a substantial press on the damper so use the appropriate puller to pull the damper in place. Using the production bolt is NOT recommended as the bolt will only engage a few threads as the damper is started and those first few threads can deform under the high press load required. This will cause the damper bolt to lock up and seize and then you really have a huge problem. Use a treaded puller that can engage deep in the crank snout that has a long threaded section to then pull the damper into place. Then install the bolt and torque. It takes about 300 ft lb to achieve the correct torque and angle on the early Northstars and about 250 ft lbs on the later ones.

    You MUST get the damper seated and the bolt tensioned correctly to properly drive the oil pump. If the bolt is not tensioned correctly the oil pump drive can slip and cause a catostrophic loss of oil pressure.

    As usual, with any harmonic damper, NEVER EVER use a hammer to tap it on to start it or drive it into place. NEVER even THINK of using a hammer on a harmonic damper as it will destroy the adhesion of the elastomeric ring that attaches the hub to the outer ring and the damper will come apart.

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