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99 STS head gasket repair [ in car]

8K views 54 replies 9 participants last post by  lembo 
#1 ·
Hello to all, I have been a member here for a while but until now I've been hiding in the shadows and getting great advice for you all. A big thank you to all of you.

I have a time sert question that I hope has a good answer. I have removed the heads on my 99 STS and plan on doing time serts. I remember reading somewhere on here that I could use the TIME-SERT J-42385-2000 kit on the 99. I'm aware the kit is for newer 2000 and up but thought it was only because of the newer models having deeper holes in one bank. Has anyone used this kit on older engines.

Thanx in advance. I'll post some pics here and keep you posted
 
#38 ·
Even with cradle lowered there was not enough room for drill. I dropped the mount and lowered engine with floor jack to gain the room needed. Doing this job "in car" is no short cut. It is more work than dropping engine and cradle out the bottom. Something is always in the way
That's what I've always heard and why I never recommend doing it in car.
 
#32 ·
True bummer ! That 'Sert simply pulled apart. CAREFUL work with an EZ-Out is in order. Jam the remaining TimeSert threads and you have real problems.

Are those the original TimeSert or the later BigSert ?

Just as an aside, I (maybe others) wish that you had used Norm's NS300L inserts ................ but, the die is cast.

www.huhnsolutions.com
 
#34 ·
These are TimeSert. I can still go to BigSert if necessary. I got a good deal on this kit used on Ebay. I plan to resell it when finished. A bit bummed that I'll have to wait for new serts to come in the mail. Not sure if there is a walk in supplier here in North Jersey. I might consider leaving it and seeing if it torques. It's on the front bank so it would be easy to get back to it if it fails. 75% is still in there and I feel it would do more damage to block threads if I got it out.
 
#35 ·
The original times serts were known to fail, sometimes while torquing the head bolts upon reassembly. Yours failed while threading it into the block, AND YOU STILL WANT TO TRUST THEM?!?!

The hard part is done, and you need to order new serts now anyway. Just use the better serts or stud it now. Why waste all that labor?
 
#36 · (Edited)
Are you suggesting that I remove the 1 bad sert and the 19 good ones? Sounds like that would ruin all the new threads due to the locktite and the bottom threads of the sert being pressed in the block on assembly. Is the tap for studs that much larger that I can retool good threads into the block?
 
#40 · (Edited)
Use this diagram for timing.

Dribble or paint cam breakin lube onto all 32 cam lobes and cam followers.

Pin the chain tensioners fully retracted, then pull the pins when it's all together. Fill the oil pump with 50 weight oil. Use a full 8 quarts of 10W-30 HD (truck/marine) to fill the sump.
 

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#41 ·
That's great info but I was hoping there was a trick to do it from above without removing front cover. I doubt those tensioners will play nice. My day job will put this project on hold for a few days anyway. Thanks again Submariner.
 
#43 ·
Maybe ............ IF you used the GM trick of wire-tying the cam chains they haven't slipped time and the tensioners have not automatically ratcheted out all the way.

The tensioner and guide slippers are nylon and they wear over time, so should be replaced.

I incorrectly assumed that you had opened the front (timing) cover to do chain/tensioner work.
 
#44 ·
The front tensioner moves freely. Sound of oil swishing when depressed. I think the rear one is ratcheted out.

Also new "used" camshaft has a broken timing gear so I need to swap it with the old one. Suggestions on cracking the ?20mm? nut are welcome. [On head, Off head, impact]
 
#45 ·
Auto part Family car


On the top left is the famous hollow bolt. As you see it is twice the length of what sticks out. Just an FYI for those trying to clear it.

On the right you see I'm replacing the pipe connector to the heater core with a standard fitting from Home Depot. I don't trust the original and it looks like it was leaking at some point.
 
#47 ·
I got her all back together and drove her around the block. Got a question. Service Air Bag on dash and a B1126 code. [Driver deployment Loop Opened]. My Alldatadiy manual has a very detailed diagnosis. My steering wheel Center sensor has been broken for some time and it is possible my wheel did a 360 while disconnected. Should I look at the steering column or did I miss a plug under the hood?
 
#48 ·
Lembo, did you have the steering wheel shaft disconnected for this job? The airbag sensor is the yellow item centered above the radiator.

----------

I will be doing a head gasket repair on my 99 Eldo in the next month or so and would like to do it in-vehicle. I will be using inserts (Norm's). Lembo I notice the right angle drill you used was a bit bulky, do you think a more slender drill like this Makita DA3000 would work better?

http://www.amazon.com/Makita-DA3000R-8-Inch-Variable-Speed/dp/B00002269W/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top

Also, how did you go about re-timing the camshafts? If you had to do it again, is there a better way you would handled the cam shaft portion of the job? Any other tips that you have not mentioned here? Thanks so much for posting the job!
 
#49 ·
Just a heads up on installing cams, you CAN release the tensioners and squish them down without removing the cover. I did this on a mis-timed chain way back.... engine in car all bolted up. you can push a flat bar down the head and hit the release. I practised on an engine i had out on the floor...
 
#50 ·
Hey JTraik,I disconnected the steering at the rack only. You lost me at "above the radiator"

If at all possible, Drop the motor. I had no choice do to gravel driveway. [ thoughts of suicide my occur] I used time serts and the bit required a 1/2 inch chuck. I think that Makita is 3/8. I also used the kit for a 2000 which works but comes with a longer drill bit for the deep bank on one side of the 2000+ Northstars. The bit for the 99 would have given me another inch clearance which is a lot on this job.

As far as the cam timing, I had a hard time due to the rear tensioner. No pics that day, sorry. It needed to be pinned so the front cover had to come off. I used a 110 volt impact gun from harbor freight to break lose the harmonic balancer and a 4 inch 3 claw puller. The engine had to get real low and I pinched the camshaft position sensor against the side wall in the process so keep that in mind. Good luck with your job.
 
#51 ·
Also another thing that helped me with timing was to draw the timing marks on the back of the cam timing gears with a sharpie. Then bring down the cam caps slowly. Concentrate on the caps on either side of the engaged cam lobs first till closed. I used a 1/4 inch socket wrench, no more than a half turn each bolt. Then use torque pattern from manual.
 
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