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Northstar Engines and System Technical Discussion Discussion, Melted camshaft water pump drive pulley in Cadillac Engine Technical Discussion; Another update... It did not snow here today.. So I went back to the Pick n pull and got a ...
  1. #46
    KarlInOhio is offline Cadillac Owners Member
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    Re: Melted camshaft water pump drive pulley

    Another update...

    It did not snow here today.. So I went back to the Pick n pull and got a power antenna for $29.99... Worked great... Tested it when I got to the parking lot.

    Also bought 4 floor mats (mine only had one rear one in it) so I can clean them up and possibly re-dye them for further use.

    When I got home I replaced the antenna... real easy remove 1 X 10mm ground bolt, 1 X 10mm nut, unplug the antenna wire and pull the antenna assembly downward... Then take the new antenna and simply push the antenna through the rubber mounting bushing on the exterior of the car, and bolt it back up.... Now it works perfect...

    Then I replaced the light bulb for the license plate... 4 X 7mm screws behind the license plate and 2 X 7mm screws on the backside of the trunk under the carpeted area.... Lift out rear assembly and pulled the plug and replaced the bulb..

    Also, checked all my fuses... Found one burned out.. The cigarette lighter... Probably never would have known that since I never use it... but I replaced the fuse anyway...

    Then since it was still "relatively" warm at 40 degrees today I knocked out the Automatic Leveling Compressor...

    Essentially, I disconnected the electrical plug for the compressor, then unbolted the three 8mm bolts that hold the pump onto the bracket mount... Then I used the 8mm Gear wrench to remove the three bolts which holds the bracket on... A gear wrench is a must for the one forward bolt which holds on the bracket...

    Then unplugged the air line connection at the Dryer..

    Then I pulled the bracket out.. I had to turn the compressor to get it lined up to remove... Even then it is a tight fit... I found myself pulling down on the muffler for the extra space to get the old one out....


    Once I got it out, I noticed all the air hoses were worn and torn... Had to run to Advance Auto and pick up around 3 feet of hose (more is better just in case)...

    Cut the pieces and replaced them..

    Then re-installed the pump and inserted the bracket and remounted the whole setup.... Took around an hour total to do the compressor.. not a bad job, but takes some persistence and maneuvering of the bracket and pump...

    ************************************************** ***********************

    I then checked my work and turned the key on in the car.... I heard the pump going, and going and going and going and going and going..... (over a minute).. And the level was staying the same.... Hmmmm.... Guess I figured out why the last compressor died... I had another engagement to attend so I had to stop there, but not before removing the ALC fuse in the trunk area to keep from burning this compressor out...

    Hopefully tomorrow or the next day I will get down to the lines with some soapy solution and check the lines and the shocks for a leak...


    Here are the pics..

    Ground on the antenna



    Removing the 10mm nut that holds the power antenna bracket on the car...







    Removing the rear plate assembly with reverse lights










    Cleaning out and testing the fuse box under the hood





    Good pump assembly on left, bad one on right...





    New hose







    Fitting it into place...




    The air hose line runs to the middle of the car and up into a nipple by the gas tank...



    Cheers!

  2. #47
    KarlInOhio is offline Cadillac Owners Member
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    Re: Melted camshaft water pump drive pulley

    Today's update...

    I received my Seat Heating Element from Chris known as (RippyPartsDept) Thanks for the speedy shipping! Looking forward to doing this and posting the pics...

    Ordered New shale colored headliner material (no I don't need a new headliner, but I am going to do some surprise work... stay tuned)...

    Ordered the new Valve cover gaskets as well...

    My Garage door opener cartridge arrived today... Installed it in about 1 min and had it opening my garage in the next 3 minutes.... A nice feature to add to the car.

    The other thing was finding where my air leak is on my Automatic Leveling system.... I jacked up the passenger side, removed the tire and then removed the air line inlet to the shock... Used my air gun to pressurize the shock and sprayed the boot area with soapy solution... Held my thumb over the air line inlet and watched for bubbles... No bubbles on passenger side...

    Switched around and did the drivers side and did the same thing with the soapy solution... The problem presented itself... Soap bubbles everywhere all over the shock boot.... So now I need new shocks... Will buy two and replace at the same time... Hopefully no leaks in the air lines themselves, but either way, the shocks have to go...

    Stay tuned for more!!!

    The pics:

    New garage door opener:



    Out with the old!!!




    In with the new!!!


    539

    Filling up the air shock (sorry for crappy pic), it is from my S4 phone....



    The bubbles telling me it is shot!!!



    Cheers!

  3. #48
    Ranger's Avatar
    Ranger is offline Cadillac Owners Member
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    Re: Melted camshaft water pump drive pulley

    Quote Originally Posted by KarlInOhio View Post


    The bubbles telling me it is shot!!!
    Ya think? I'd say that's a pretty safe assumption.

  4. #49
    vincentm's Avatar
    vincentm is online now Cadillac Owners Connoisseur
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    Thats why the compressor keeps running

  5. #50
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    Re: Melted camshaft water pump drive pulley

    Quote Originally Posted by KarlInOhio View Post


    The bubbles telling me it is shot!!!
    I think the oily shock is a pretty good indication as well.

  6. #51
    KarlInOhio is offline Cadillac Owners Member
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    Re: Melted camshaft water pump drive pulley

    Actually the shocks in the above picture were totally dry... The wetness is from the soapy solution...

    Anyway.... Got back from an out of town trip today and it was like Christmas with all the boxes... Still waiting for the Seat dye and the resistor for the VATs system but they could be here tomorrow.

    Got the new Shocks, Valve cover gasket set, SEM soap for leather and a two headlight assemblies. Hopefully can install the headlights and shocks tomorrow (will get to a balmy 47 degrees here)... Then the next day we are supposed to get 4-6 inches of snow... Enough of winter already!!!!


    205

  7. #52
    KarlInOhio is offline Cadillac Owners Member
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    Re: Melted camshaft water pump drive pulley

    Didn't get to anything this weekend... Life got in the way...

    Anyway, got the last of the items I have needed (the VATS resistor and the Seat Dye) and today I also bought some gently used matching Michelin tires....getting the tires mounted and balanced two at a time by dropping them off at the Wal-Mart... The least expensive place I have found to do this work...

    So, tonight I tried to install the VATS Resistor... The first thing I noticed is that the wiring from the ignition lock does go directly into a larger harness plug (not a two wire plug, like older models)... So I cut the wires from the ignition lock to the larger harness plug and guess what... It still started with the same 'Theft System Problem- Car may not restart).... Yes I cut the correct wires... Don't feel like arguing about this...

    While searching around I found a thread by a guy who is having the exact same issue.... It remained unresolved so I am going to do some further exploration tomorrow...


    http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums...ey-bypass.html

    Here is what I have noticed:

    - There was absolutely no continuity or resistance on the wires coming from the ignition lock (completely open) had the key in and checked in all positions...

    - I wired the resistor into where the wires that should lead to the Instrument Panel Cluster (IPC) and this had no effect at all on turning off the 'Theft System Problem - Car may not restart' ..... The car still easily restarted.

    - So I have a dead line going all the way from the ignition lock at least to the wiring harness...(and possibly the IPC)

    - I know I cut the correct wires and traced them back...

    - There is no aftermarket stereo on this car...The stock radio is still in and works 100% fine... I doubt there is any aftermarket security system... have not seen any signs of anything aftermarket...

    Since it has been suggested in the previous thread that there may have been another resistor installed behind the IPC, I am going to remove the Dash tomorrow and do some scouting around....

    Here is what I think may have happened..

    The ignition lock had issues....Hence the security system had issues and probably was causing the car not to start.... The Ignition lock was probably either worn out and not sending the proper ohms reading or the wires may have broken internally (more likely).... It takes a considerable amount of time (=money) to replace this.... A fast easy fix is to add a resistor to the system...

    While a repair (a resistor added) could have been done under the dash (the underdash section looked all stock with no modifications) it also could have been done behind the IPC under the dash (as was suggested in the previous thread by DevilleDan and seconded by RippyPartsDept)...

    I am hoping that when I pull the dash I find a resistor... maybe going bad and not providing good resistance.

    That is my logic... I may be entirely off, but I cannot find any other explanation of why when the wires are cut to the ignition lock and yet it still starts the car (and starts it with the same error)....

    If all else fails, I will send the IPC off to Specmo to have the theftlock cleared out...

  8. #53
    rodnok01's Avatar
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    Re: Melted camshaft water pump drive pulley

    Does it have factory HU still? I highly doubt there is a resistor hidden somewhere, but anything is possible.
    Did you have any IPC codes?

  9. #54
    KarlInOhio is offline Cadillac Owners Member
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    Re: Melted camshaft water pump drive pulley

    As far as I know it is the factory HU... It looks completely factory and original..

    I agree, it is a long shot to find a resistor back there and is a bit of logical wishful thinking...

    Another thing I am now concerned with is my battery is showing 12.0 volts exact... I know it is cold, but it is a brand new battery, the last one was reading around the same range... When the vehicle is running it is charging at 13.8.... I may have to check tomorrow for a parasitic draw...


    As far as codes, these are the only ones:

    IPC Current - DTC B2711 PASSKey Open/Shorted Pellet After Good Key

    IPC Historical - DTC U1255 Class 2 Communication Malfunction

    SDM Historical - DTC U1000 Class 2 Communication Malfunction

    RFA Historical - DTC U1000 Class 2 Communication Malfunction

  10. #55
    rodnok01's Avatar
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    Re: Melted camshaft water pump drive pulley

    It's a long shot but I had wiring A pillar area that was rubbing on metal of dash and wearing on the wires for harness going to IPC on my 98. If you're yanking the dash anyways I would check there.
    I had that IPC B2711 error when key was getting worn and it didn't restart a few times until installed resistor.
    Have you cleared all the codes yet through the DIC? Don't know how long that code stays current, could be a long time(can't remember the number of starts it takes oto send to histroy without FSM). Just spit balling at this point.
    KarlInOhio likes this.

  11. #56
    KarlInOhio is offline Cadillac Owners Member
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    Re: Melted camshaft water pump drive pulley

    I cleared all the codes about a week ago from the cluster.... B2711 keeps coming back... It has had the B2711 error ever since I got the car... and as you can tell from previous posts, talking to the previous owner will be of no help....

    I will look all around for any worn wires when I pull the dash...

    Appreciate all your ideas... (even spit-balling)... Sometimes it leads to something.

    I am now concerned about a parasitic draw... Sometimes weird electrical things can be related...

    Thanks!

  12. #57
    KarlInOhio is offline Cadillac Owners Member
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    Re: Melted camshaft water pump drive pulley

    Update 6 March....

    Found the problem with the "parasitic draw"... Interior light was left on... That was easy..

    Got all four new tires installed.. and put the last two on today... I did two at a time... Dropping them off by hand yesterday and today and picking them up after work.... The four tires installed and balanced at the Wal-Mart for $40.66... The first two tires were done correctly with weights put on the interior of the wheels, the two I picked up today had the weights on the OUTSIDE on the Chrome wheels!!! REALLY???? WOW.... ARRGGH... I will have to take them back to have them done right....

    Still have not pulled the dash to trace down the VATS issue, Car still starts with no issue, so I can delay that... I had good weather today so I wanted to get the shocks done.


    Shocks were not really an issue except for the first one... All that was needed to replace the shocks is an 18mm Combination wrench, a 24 mm Impact socket w/impact gun, a 24mm Combination wrench, a T47 Socket (w/breaker bar or ratchet) and an adjustable wrench.

    Problem being is that the first shock I did I could not get the T-47 to grip the upper stud correctly and it stripped out... Needed a Cutting wheel to get that nut off the stud.... Took longer than anticipated. 24mm Combination wrench to remove the nut, the T47 to hold the stud in place... The bottom bolt and nut were easy as pie... Hold the 18mm Bolt head with the box side of a combination wrench and use the 24mm Impact socket on the nut... The bolt easily removes from its position by hand..

    But the second shock was easier (and I got the T47 seated well on the stud) to remove the upper bolt. That side took me about 10 minutes to remove the shock and another 5 to replace... Totally easy... The only difference between removal and installation was that the new shock had a stud that had the traditional type stud which only had two recessed sides (instead of a Torx or Hex type recess on top) to hold the stud.... I used a combination wrench to hold it while I tightened the nut...

    Got both sides done in no time and was ready to move on...

    Put both wheels on and lowered the car, replaced the ALC fuse and let her go.... Unfortunately the air compressor just kept running and running and running and running again...

    So now I have a few possibilities....

    1- Air lines have a leak somewhere...

    2- Compressor is not pushing air (or is weak)

    3- Purge valve is bad and air is just running right out...


    Will have to figure this out this weekend (hopefully I have time....)

    I will probably start with the air intake and purge line (the vacuum type lines show in the pics with the compressor)... I will jack up the car, and disconnect the rubber type 'air line' to where it breathes (showed a pic earlier about where this line attaches up by the fuel tank).... Then I will lower the car back down and then let the pump run and see if air is coming right out as soon as the compressor is pushing it (checking the purge valve).... If that is fine, then next:

    I will remove the small plastic air shocks lines and remove them from some of the holders so the air lines will touch the ground or close to it.... Then lower the car and let the Compressor work and check to see if air is coming out of the lines.... If none, I will remove the air lines from the compressor and check directly from the pump... One of these WILL show a fault... just have to do it......

    Here are pics from the shock removal and install...


    Lower Control Arm Raised...


    35





    Hitting the top nut (and mostly the fender well) with a generous dose of PB Blaster...



    Lower attachment... A 24mm Nut on 18mm Bolt...




    Lower attachment bolt and nut....




    Wallered out T47 at top...




    Old and New




    Shock removed




    New shock installed




    All finished on this side... Same to the next...

    CadillacLuke24 likes this.

  13. #58
    Cadillac Kid03's Avatar
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    Re: Melted camshaft water pump drive pulley

    Good thread, I love seeing older Cadillac's being brought back to life and you sure are doing a good Job!

  14. #59
    Submariner409's Avatar
    Submariner409 is offline If it won't run, stick on fender vents
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    Re: Melted Camshaft Water pump pulley

    KarlInOhio - Keep a running log and pictures of the rear shock change. When it's all done I'll copy the posts to the Tech Tips forum - in a new thread - with credit to you. Nice work.

  15. #60
    KarlInOhio is offline Cadillac Owners Member
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    Re: Melted Camshaft Water pump pulley

    Quote Originally Posted by Submariner409 View Post
    KarlInOhio - Keep a running log and pictures of the rear shock change. When it's all done I'll copy the posts to the Tech Tips forum - in a new thread - with credit to you. Nice work.
    \

    I can do that...

    Unfortunately I am limited on pics, but I can take more pics when I have the wheels off (I will do this in the next couple of days)...

    The real problem for a DIYer would be having the tools to cut that stud/nut at the top if it gets wallered.... A cutoff wheel is so nice and can be gotten relatively cheap at a Harbor Freight.... As a matter of fact, that is where I even buy my cutoff wheels.

    ----------

    Update...

    OK here is your latest update... Nice weather today.. Had to resist the urge to hit happy hour... Around 54 degrees and sunny here in Columbus, OH and after this winter, that feels like 85 degrees....

    I did what I planned on doing and jacked up the car and pulled the air inlet/vent line for the compressor (the one that goes up by the gas tank)... It was sucking air (as it should) when the compressor was running, but barely... uh oh...

    I then removed the actual air lines to the shocks and let the compressor run and felt nothing coming out of them.... Hmmmm...

    Then I removed the air lines and tested them... While they are very tiny Inside Diameter, I could blow my air gun through them, but couldn't blow air using my mouth, but under pressure they were holding the air and blowing out the other side of the line... I submerged the lines in a gallon container of water and blew compressed air through them and saw no leaks....


    Then was the last test.... See if the compressor is pushing out air right from the source.... But to do this, I would have to get the compressor running while I had the car in the air... To accomplish this I removed one 10mm bolt and a retaining ring on the level sensor, so I could manually move the level sensor and trip the system to work.... I then got the compressor to run and put my hand up next to it and felt where the air should be coming... NO AIR COMING OUT absolutely nothing.......

    So now I know my issue... Compressor is not pushing air, but I am not throwing it out yet... I will remove the compressor motor again and then remove the dryer (perhaps it is completely clogged up) and see if it works then.... If not, I can return it to the Pick n Pull and try again....


    Here are the days pics... Just a couple, not really too much to see...

    Cheers!

    Removing the arm from the level sensor (located on Drivers side)



    Inspecting the air lines...O-rings still look fine..


    . . ... ....

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