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Northstar Engines and System Technical Discussion Discussion, Melted camshaft water pump drive pulley in Cadillac Engine Technical Discussion; Hey Sub , what does 'shotgun' a post mean?...
  1. #16
    eldoedwardo is offline Cadillac Owners Fanatic
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    Re: Melted camshaft water pump drive pulley

    Hey Sub , what does 'shotgun' a post mean?

  2. #17
    KarlInOhio is offline Cadillac Owners Member
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    Re: Melted camshaft water pump drive pulley

    Quote Originally Posted by Submariner409 View Post
    No need to buy a complete tensioner ($58) if the spring and arm are in good condition. The pulley/bearing comes off with that single center bolt. $23 at a NAPA or www.rockauto.com - your car, year, model, engine "belt drive" - the 3 rib gates pulley is fine.

    A complete engine rebuild is usually not necessary - but if you do, follow the service manual instructions - these engines are not intuitive projects - several special processes to follow. Study up on the new GM method of halfcase (lower cylinder bolock face) sealing using UltraGray and no silicone formed "gasket". Do not dingleball the cylinders - yours probably still has most of the original aggressive hone pattern anyway. These engines use low tension iron rings (oriented correctly - the lower compression ring is also a scraper) and there is no cylinder bore oversize recommended.

    Pictures in my albums - click my username, open the profile - left column - 2 albums, 6 pages of stuff for your engine. (you have the earlier waste spark ignition setup)

    Nothing wrong with DEX-COOL - exchange it every 3 years or so. Test the thermostat with a candy thermometer in a saucepan of water. It begins to open at 188 and is fully open at 206. All engine calibrations are set for that range of coolant temps. Remove and clean the ignition module (ICM), coils/bases, and make very sure the ICM ground wire is well connected. Use the plug diagram in my albums to get the proper coil-wire-plug sequence.

    As long as you're in the tool ordering business, get one of these - http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/lis75500.html
    Thanks for the info... I have a Napa distribution center less than a mile from where I work, so I will grab a new tension pulley/bearing assembly...

    I have read everything I could on this site about re-building and believe with the FSM and the info you guys have provided will be able to do a rebuild if necessary.....

    I have a block tester already and will give that a try as well (just got some fresh fluid off the Snap on truck about 2 months ago)

    Cheers

  3. #18
    Submariner409's Avatar
    Submariner409 is offline If it won't run, stick on fender vents
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    Re: Melted camshaft water pump drive pulley

    Quote Originally Posted by eldoedwardo View Post
    Hey Sub , what does 'shotgun' a post mean?
    Some members mistakenly post the same question in several different forums simultaneously in the hopes that "the more posts the more answers". All it really accomplishes is to dilute - scatter - advice from the members who choose to reply.

  4. #19
    eldoedwardo is offline Cadillac Owners Fanatic
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    Re: Melted Camshaft Water pump pulley

    thanks Submariner409

  5. #20
    KarlInOhio is offline Cadillac Owners Member
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    Re: Melted camshaft water pump drive pulley

    Sorry, no pics today... Got up to 27 degrees here in Ohio today... Felt like a heat wave... No snow and sunny skies...

    I decided to tackle replacing the melted Water pump pulley and tensioner pulley issue today.

    Took about an hour total (I had the Factory water pump pulley remover and installer)... It made it like child's play...

    Plied the belt around the water pump pulley (the hardest part of the job) and got it everything hooked up properly (the second hardest was getting access to the 10mm stud that is closest to the firewall which held the tensioner on)

    Then I started the car...

    Guess what? No overheating... Maybe I dodged a bullet... While driving the highest it went up to was 233 degrees, but the fans kicked on and knocked it down to 208 in 20-30 seconds...

    Drove it for 30 minutes.. No overheating, no leaking...

    Need to do a tune up on it now (115k miles) and I do believe the spark plugs and wires are original... Put some fresh gas in it and drain, refill and bleed the coolant.... After that hopefully I will be good to go....

    Will keep everyone informed FWIW..

  6. #21
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    Re: Melted camshaft water pump drive pulley

    Good to go.

    Your fan sequence with no function in the HVAC that calls for A/C compressor operation: Engine runs, warms up. if you drive at 25 - 30 with few stops, fans will not run. Stop, idle, temp goes to 224, fans go to SLOW, the coolant drops to 213, cycle repeats.

    With some A/C function set (DEFROST, for one) the fans run in SLOW all the time. Temp should stay around 190 - 205 all day.

    Above 35 mph, cruising - fans won't run at all they aren't needed.

    In serious traffic or slow traffic summer heat fans go to FAST at 236 coolant or 304 transmission fluid temps.

    Further pics and info in my 2 albums. If you want to monitor any 4 of 12 engine functions in real time, take a look at www.scangauge.com - the ScanGauge-II. I watch coolant temp, intake air temp, timing advance and MAP (manifold vacuum absolute).
    KarlInOhio likes this.

  7. #22
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    Re: Melted camshaft water pump drive pulley

    DONT ever put Dex cool back in the system if you have flushed it out, Dex cool eats aluminum, we have had blocks that were corroded so bad on the surface the customer needed a new block. stick with universal green or yellow long life.

    ----------

    P.S. Sub check this out - http://www.ultra-gauge.com/ultragauge/ its like the scan gauge, i bought one for my grand am, Love it.
    KarlInOhio likes this.
    Replacing the Head Gaskets on a Northstar? Use our SureGrip Cylinder Head Stud Kit!


  8. #23
    Submariner409's Avatar
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    Re: Melted camshaft water pump drive pulley

    Quote Originally Posted by 04GrandAmGT View Post
    DONT ever put Dex cool back in the system if you have flushed it out, Dex cool eats aluminum, we have had blocks that were corroded so bad on the surface the customer needed a new block. Stick with universal green or yellow long life.
    I'll bet that Prestone, other coolant manufacturers, and most automobile manufacturers in the world would tend to disagree. Could the block (cooling system passages) condition have ANYTHING to do with improper system/coolant maintenance ? Compared to the total of all DEX-COOLed aluminum blocks ever made, what is the percentage that you, me, us, them have seen in poor condition ? Any problems with poor grounds, shorted small wiring, electrolysis ?

    I've overhauled some pretty nasty green coolant aluminum and iron engines.

  9. #24
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    Re: Melted camshaft water pump drive pulley

    If Dex ate aluminum GM would have been out of business long ago. They would have been sued into oblivion. WAAAY too many Dex-Cooled engines still running around for that to be true.

  10. #25
    Caddy-EaRL's Avatar
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    It's been my experience that dexcool works great as long as it never gets mixed with air from leaks in the system that go unrepaired. Seems like that's when it turns sludgy. <shrugs>

  11. #26
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    Re: Melted camshaft water pump drive pulley

    I really think that is another internet myth. If that where the case I'd have a half gallon of sludge on my shelf.

  12. #27
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    Re: Melted camshaft water pump drive pulley

    Turns sludgy when crap gets into the coolant. The AF isn't the problem, the water added is. Cast Iron block meet mister corrosive water mix....have fun making rust, calcium build up and plugging up radiators.

    Dex Cool no worse than any other AF, how could you even make a sweeping statement like that anyways?
    Hey I hear BRAND X oil destroys lifters in every engine....or at least once it did.

  13. #28
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    Re: Melted camshaft water pump drive pulley

    Nobody's kidding anybody - coolant is a touchy subject, we see all the horror stories in here - when the engine is terminal - and I'll bet name brand dealer shops see some real Lulus. My take on the apparent DEX-COOL problem is that it is marketed as a "long life" product, most car owners never bother to read the owner's manual, most car owners never bother to do basic underhood checks ("Dear CF, Where is my oil dipstick ?), and the whole thing leads to "Out of sight, out of mind". ANY neglected coolant turns into a witch's syrup of nasty stuff. We see the end result of vehicle maintenance ignorance and we try to help recover........... just like any dealer or Mom&Pop shop.

    Working behind the counter at the local Western Auto I hear problems that would make stuff in these forums seem like a warm, rosy child's fairy tale. "Jim, My Toyota has been making a grinding noise in the left front while braking - for a couple of months now. Any ideas ?" .......... Up on the lift, wheel off. Any guesses as to what the brake pads/rotor looked like after 80,000 miles of commuting ? Daily occurrence. EaRL can testify to that.

  14. #29
    Caddy-EaRL's Avatar
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    Yep lol

  15. #30
    KarlInOhio is offline Cadillac Owners Member
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    Re: Melted camshaft water pump drive pulley

    UPDATE for 12 FEB 2014

    I went out this evening after work to try to work on the CADDY... Was 30 degrees here after work with the sun shining... Another HEAT WAVE!!

    Anyway, the interior of the car was not heating up... Checked the coolant reservoir and it was almost empty... Added coolant and then it started heating up.... Drove around no issues (got nice and toasty inside), the ECT never went above 210 degrees.

    Since I had no idea how old the gas was, I took it to the gas station and added 11 gallons of 93 octane...

    Unfortunately I still kept getting a P0301 popping up (and flashing)... Other than that, everything seemed to run well enough...

    Took it home and replaced the #1 spark plug.... took it for a run... Still the code flashed and remained.

    Went back (was getting dark) and replaced 2,4,6,8 plugs and it ran a little smoother....

    I still think the wires need replaced, so I will do that next... (maybe tomorrow)

    I am going replace the last 3 rear plugs and then swap the coil packs and see if the problem jumps to another cylinder, if that shows no improvement, I will try to swap the injector.... After that, I will be forced to do a compression/leak down test...

    Another thing that bugged me was the smell of burning oil... Pretty sure the seal on the rear valve cover gasket needs replacing... saw the evidence of oil seep.... More fun for the weekend.

    Cheers

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