Torquing N* head - Page 3

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Northstar Engines and System Technical Discussion Discussion, Torquing N* head in Cadillac Engine Discussion; hope for all the best, if you have any technical questions feel free to ask Jake or I about it ...
  1. #31
    04GrandAmGT's Avatar
    04GrandAmGT is offline Cadillac Owners Fanatic
    Automobile(s): 2001 DTS, 04 Grand Am GT,07 Cobalt(Dont Judge,My fuel Saver)
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    Re: Torquing N* head

    hope for all the best, if you have any technical questions feel free to ask Jake or I about it give us a call or im sure theres alot of people on here aswell that would help you in a heartbeat, i will do my best to answer your questions to the best of our knowledge.

    Need parts for your Northstar Engine?

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  2. #32
    Tailfin's Avatar
    Tailfin is offline Cadillac Owners Enthusiast
    Automobile(s): 1996 Deville Concours
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    New York (verified rust state)
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    Re: Torquing N* head

    Well for the curious, it's running. Few kinks to work out on this thing, but not because of the headgasket...and I'll hope it stays this way :-P.

    A few things I've learned along these weeks of pain which may help others:

    1.) If you're doing this repair with the engine in the car, you will need some room to drill the holes in the rear (right) bank of the block. One way is to remove all the A/C and blower stuff and that big plastic piece that covers it all on the firewall. I did this job without discharging the A/C, and just removing the blower motor and tilting the engine cradle on 2 jacks (left the struts attached). You can drill the holes this way, but only if you have a good right-angle drill (not one of those beefy Harbor Freight Hole Hawgs that takes up just as much room as a hand drill :-P). I used a Milwaukee (1/2" chuck necessary) from Home Depot--$250. This will also be tight when you torque a couple of the back head bolts if you're using an angle gauge (which I did). If you have one of those fancy-shmancy torque-angle wrenches, this will be easy.

    2.) I did purchase a new set of bolts after I had to retract the ones I torqued because of the service manual mistake, in case that comes into relevance. However, when I removed them, all the NS300L inserts in the left bank stayed fine, but 5 of them came up on the right bank. I'm not necessarily blaming the product here, but a few things should be mentioned which are not mentioned in the instructions that come with it. The thread locker...I had to buy more... And on the bigger package, it says to shake well before each use--not mentioned. Also, it says it fully cures in 24 hours. Norm's instructions say to wait 3 hours before installing the bolts. In addition, the 24-hour cure time is assuming 72 degrees F...which I surely did not have. Also, when cleaning the holes and inserts preparing them for the thread locker, make SURE they're clean and free of oil residue....use compressed air to blow them off, and then let them dry a bit. Also, I would use just a wee bit more thread locker than around one thread of the insert and the hole. There is some play in such coarse threads...and I read in the threadlocker data sheet...that it cures anaerobically. So if air pockets are there, it won't cure. None of this was mentioned.

    3.) Again, if doing this in the car, do not even attempt to take the bolts off the firewall side exhaust manifold where it connects directly to the will commit suicide. It's impossible :-D. This should have been obvious to me, but my wits were stretched and it wasn't. Disconnect the two larger pipes that connect the manifold to the pipe that goes to the cat...and take the whole head off with the manifold. It's a bit heavy, but you will save a life...whoever gets hit by the tool you will throw after trying to get at those bolts any other way....
    98eldo32v likes this.

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