Well I just went to go start my car after not driving it for a day and it wont start. Wont even click or anything... what bothers me even more is that when I turn on the power it says "Monitored Systems OK", which clearly isnt the case and its not throwing me any codes. Prior to this occuring, the car was running fine with the exception of very poor gas mileage (10mpg city), so it ran thru my head it might be hydrolocked, so while in ACC mode I put the pedal to the floor since that is supposed to clear the engine of any gas.. tried cranking, nothing. No clicking or even an attempt, i'm thinking the starter is dead but it is usual for that to happen out of the blue? This is a 94 Eldorado with 68k... any help is very appreciated, thanks.
Automobile(s): 1995 ETC, 75 Deville, Cad500 powered 73 Apollo, 94 Mark VIII
Re: Dead Eldorado
Hydrolocked is when a cyl is so full of liquid that it cannot compress. Flooded is when it has too much gas to start. Putting it to the floor while cranking sends it into flood clear mode, I'm not too sure what that DOES but it's supposed to clear a flooded engine and get it started. Anyway neither of these are the problem since it won't crank. If it won't even click I'd first check the battery connections, sometimes it will power on the accessories but not the starter. Then I'd start thinking starter relay or solenoid or starter itself.
Man I love you guys! I went downstairs after being extremely upset about spending $400 on a starter and not even including the tow..especially since I dont have a job at the moment and figured I'd tighten the cables just for good measure. I didnt think that was the cause since I changed my battery a few months ago and remembered tightening it and couldn't see how it came loose by itself... maybe all those WOT's i've been doin lately. Well, after tightening the positive cable, it fired right up! I've been really low on $$ these days but after just saving me that money, its time for another forum donation. Thanks everyone for you help!!
You guys shouldn't have to be tightening your cables, especially every so often. 90% of the time when a car comes in with loose terminals, either one of the two terminals on the cables has been changed, the positive bolt is replaced with an aftermarket version, or the two positive cables have been installed incorrectly with each other. I've noticed that many times the fault lies in that one positive terminal is replaced, and later it wont seat properly onto the other one. You will feel the bolt bottom out but if you grab the cables with some force they will turn. You should not be able to budge it. This in time will cause the bolt to loosen and the car my not restart, your lights may dim at night, could set a charging system code, or worse voltage spike and fry a module. I know a new batt cable is like 90 bucks at the dealer new, but it's cheap insurance and really the only correct way to fix the problem. The aftermarkert cables, terminals, and bolts are all junk, and don't work properly.
There is no way I am going to spend $90 on a battery cable when I can get it for $10. I have recently changed out mine and I have no problem. It isn't a science putting on new cables and connections. I don't think you can say the aftermarket cables are junk. What the difference between them and ones from the dealer? The only difference in the whole setup is going to be the connections.
As a matter of fact, when anyone changes out their battery, I would suggest they replace their side terminal battery with a top post battery. Many, not all, side terminal batteries are prone to leakage around the terminal.
If you do change your cables, converting to top post seems like a good "oem alternative". However I own 2 gm'scurrently, (about 4 past) all using Gm side post. I have had no problems with terminals leaking. Most of the times your terminals start leaking because the cables are not installed correctly, or the battery is not tied down and moves around. But I don't believe you understood my last post. Many times your battery cable will break, so what happens you go to discount and buy a $2 terminal peel the old wire and add the terminal to it. What happens? Now you have an aftermarket terminal sitting on the oem one or vise versa, they are not designed to work this way, and you won't get a solid connection. 90% of the problems lie in the positive cable they are designed to rest on each other, and when you modify the setup you get problems, be it the terminals the bolt w/e. The correct fix is to buy one or both cables and replace them,(WHY? because the factory cables are designed specifically for your application whereas the aftermarket are designed for many types of makes and models, and you have to make them fit.) Yea it's expensive, but your driving the standard of automotive luxury. And looking to pay a hyundai price? 90 bucks covers both cables with the bolt. Which is good for the rest of the life of the vehicle. I mean how long did the originals last? I replaced one cable on my concours because the dummy that owned the car before installed the intake ASM and did not run the cable correctly and damaged it. It costed me $32 somewhere around that number, and I have had no problems. Infact I had to replace my horn the other day and had to remove the battery, and those cables were on there good.
I agree, you need to change out all the terminals going to the positive side of the battery. I changed out all my wires. The reason being corrosion and not enough slack to comfortably peel back. The aftermarket terminals I purchased fit with each other in a groove. They are tight and not budging.
I can see where some may screw this up though and not do it correctly.