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Northstar Engines and System Technical Discussion Discussion, Help - 1993 Eldorado needs new engine in Cadillac Engine Technical Discussion; Originally Posted by 93 L-Dawg Up Date, I've gotten the GM repair manual for my car. I can't seem to ...
  1. #46
    vincentm's Avatar
    vincentm is offline Cadillac Owners Connoisseur
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    Quote Originally Posted by 93 L-Dawg View Post
    Up Date, I've gotten the GM repair manual for my car. I can't seem to find the page were it talks about removing the power assembly and the cradle???

    Transmission any one know if the 93 L-Dawg has the t80 tranny or is it the t60e? Ty guys.

    Happy my car was made in my MI plant yay I have a piece of MI History!!!
    Theres no exact section for cradle removal, look in engine section and it should be listed under removal

  2. #47
    93 L-Dawg's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by vincentm

    Theres no exact section for cradle removal, look in engine section and it should be listed under removal
    Ty vin,

  3. #48
    Harry Yarnell is offline Cadillac Owners Fanatic
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    Re: Help - 1993 Eldorado needs new engine

    As for the starter, yes, only two bolts, and it should fall out. Since you said the engine's 'locked up', maybe the starter's drive is binding on the flywheel. Still, it should just wiggle out.
    Tranny is a 4T80.
    Removal of the cradle is not (I don't think) in the shop manual, but should be common sense what has to be disconnected.

  4. #49
    93 L-Dawg's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Harry Yarnell
    As for the starter, yes, only two bolts, and it should fall out. Since you said the engine's 'locked up', maybe the starter's drive is binding on the flywheel. Still, it should just wiggle out.
    Tranny is a 4T80.
    Removal of the cradle is not (I don't think) in the shop manual, but should be common sense what has to be disconnected.
    Ty Harry, it's the org Starter, lol but I'll get it out, may tap on it cause it didn't wiggle out at all.

    Reason I asked because I couldn't find the transmission listed in the book. Yea the cradle is common sense. I'm just glad that I have it ready to come out

    I just waiting for my boy to get his hands on that cherry picker. I want to take it to the machine shop and see if they can get her back to running I am replacing the oil pump and stuff. If your gonna do it then do it right!!! I plan on keeping my car. Unless I get married and have a kid again!!!! Not gonna happen.
    I'm a Caddy Man!

  5. #50
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    Lost my job, car stalls for a sec, ran across some head bolts on eBay motors last night and I wanted yaw input on buy em off of e bay?
    Ty I've gotten interviews but not hired yet.

  6. #51
    vincentm's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 93 L-Dawg View Post
    Lost my job, car stalls for a sec, ran across some head bolts on eBay motors last night and I wanted yaw input on buy em off of e bay?
    Ty I've gotten interviews but not hired yet.
    Head bolts will only be useful if youre using Normserts..the bolt holes themselves need to be drilled and retapped for either studs or serts nothing else, this isnt a small task by any means..

  7. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by vincentm

    Head bolts will only be useful if youre using Normserts..the bolt holes themselves need to be drilled and retapped for either studs or serts nothing else, this isnt a small task by any means..

    Buy the head gasket kit right? Then the head bolts studs? I have a guy that will do it. Shoot I'm not able to do that.

    Sense I lost my job, I do nothing right now to my car. Engine is still in the car, minus I've taken it apart drop the cradle and I haven't located a engine hoist yet.

  8. #53
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    Re: Help - 1993 Eldorado needs new engine

    I see that you're in the middle of repairing you Eldorado.....

    I see that you're dropping the cradle........

    A word of advice.

    If working WITHOUT a lift......don't even think of dropping a cradle.

    Between raising the car high enough for the engine/trans to clear AND that's high enough for you to slide it out with a dolly or pallet jack. Removing brake hoses, disconnecting the ebcm, disconnecting the steering rack, locking the steering wheel in position so you don't ruin the clock spring, possibly removing the sub frame with the struts still attached, disconnecting the harness that runs over the transmission, (wait till you have to put it back....), then loosening the exhaust system, removal of the rear flex pipe, coolant hoses/ pipes and the best part the wiring harness from inside the car on the passenger side comes through the firewall.

    Yes, the cradle drop sounds nice because it's the FACTORY way because at the FACTORY/DEALERSHIP they usually have lifts and the necessary dollies and such to deal with this sort of thing AND the dealership/factory is going to do this multiple times because THEY have to service the vehicle. How many times are you planning to service head gaskets? Are you going to buy a pallet jack for one time use? 6 ton jack stands and everything associated for "occasional" use?

    OR........ raise the vehicle high enough to loosen the torque converter bolts, remove the brackets holding the trans to the engine, the front motor mount, and everything else associated to the removal of just the engine. Remove the engine and work on the engine.

    After you drop that sub frame, you STILL have to now breakdown the motor?!


    I can't even imagine putting the cradle back in without a lift to lower it a little at a time to make sure you don't damage anything. Heaven forbid you cut or pinch a wire, can you say electrical nightmare?

    If the struts came out with the cradle, I hope you have at least one buddy hanging around to help you guide them back into the body.

    I've removed these engines BOTH ways practically by myself.

    Dropping the sub frame will be an option when there is no other option.

    Since you have yourself lined up for the cradle drop, you have a bit of work cut out for you either way.

    If you're going through all of this, I hope you are planning to use studs.

    I wish you the best of luck and hope you return your car to the road soon.

  9. #54
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    You are so right!!! Sense I couldn't locate a rental shop for the engine host yet. The engine is sitting in the car. All I've done is taken off all the wires going to the engine and all the horses. Coil pack has been taken off as well. Left and right motor mounts are off.

    Sense I can't get my hands on any lift. I'm kinda stuck.

    It would make better sense to me if I could pull the motor from the top wouldn't it?

    Your help would be very grateful.
    I spoke with a guy here in Austin and he said that it would be better if I just rebuilt mines instead of buying one from a junk yard.


    Only junk yards that have the right motor are way out side of Austin,Tx and the shipping is 3 to 400 extra on top of what I'm paying for the engine and I can't inspect it until I get it.

    To many risk.
    Ty for your help

  10. #55
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    Re: Help - 1993 Eldorado needs new engine

    Engine hoist.......

    Either borrow one from someone that has one or you'll be buying one. I don't know how the rental of one for those things goes, but if it's by the day, you'll end up owning one when the job is all over.

    ----------

    Look here,


    http://row52.com/Yards


    One of those yards should be close enough to you to get "extra" parts if needed

    ----------


    I just "combed" through them.......all "B" motors (4.9) at least near you

  11. #56
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    Re: Help - 1993 Eldorado needs new engine

    Did you actually order the studs? They are often agreed to be the best option, but if you are THAT screwed as far as removing the engine, Norms NS300L inserts (already mentioned above more than once) are a viable option (I just did my engine with them). You can do the job without removing the engine totally if you don't use studs. You will, however, need to at least unbolt the cradle and use jacks to raise/lower the front and back of it at times for better access. The pulley you asked about before, and Submariner told you about--you need a power steering puller...it's the same thing really. You can buy one cheap at Harbor Freight, or rent one from Autozone or something.

    I'm getting the impression that you might not be aware of some of the annoyances that you'll encounter. First, you'll want to order the guide pins/dowels that are in the block/head. You will never get them out without destroying them lol... The GM part number is 3522352 - you need 4 of them.

    Make sure you have an angle gauge for your wrench, because the torque instructions on the head bolts and the crank bolt call for a torque setting, then certain degrees of rotation.

    When removing the crank bolt, you'll need the flywheel holder they mention...or some other way to hold the engine from moving when you remove it. That thing is ON there (and must be put back ON there according to spec)

    With either inserts or studs, you'll be drilling the holes that the head bolts go into bigger, and tapping them, etc... You'll need an appropriate drill.

    The service manuals are a bit of a pain to navigate sometimes. As I mentioned in my thread not long ago, I actually had an error in my 97 manual...and had to re-do the head bolts. These are the correct torque specs for the head bolts (copied from AJ's post):

    Torque Specifications:

    1993-1999 Head Bolt Torque
    • First Pass ----- 30 lb ft
    • Second Pass -- +70°
    • Third Pass ---- +60°
    • Fourth Pass -- +60° (190 Degrees total)
    You need the bolt order too though. I'll see if I can get an image of that in here later from Alldata.

    The crank pulley is 37 lb ft, plus 120 degrees, when you put it back on.

    Those specs ARE imperative, but not a whole lot else that I can think of that isn't common sense. Not to imply this job is easy :-P.

  12. #57
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    Re: Help - 1993 Eldorado needs new engine

    93 L-Dawg, I pulled my N* out the top. It was a piece of cake! Cherry picker over the righr fender. Didnt even have to evac the A/C!
    Studs are the way to go. My Caddy, a $500 dk gn 93 Concourse, cost to rerair, about 500 in parts and 300 in tools/equipment. Oh ya, GET A FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL FOR YOUR YEAR!!! Good luck.
    98eldo32v likes this.

  13. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by 83CADMAN
    93 L-Dawg, I pulled my N* out the top. It was a piece of cake! Cherry picker over the righr fender. Didnt even have to evac the A/C!
    Studs are the way to go. My Caddy, a $500 dk gn 93 Concourse, cost to rerair, about 500 in parts and 300 in tools/equipment. Oh ya, GET A FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL FOR YOUR YEAR!!! Good luck.

    Ty guys, as I said before, my engine is locked up!!! What caused it? I have no clue, maybe from sitting before I purchased it who knows.
    What I do know is the crank won't turn when I tried to manual turn it.

    I only paid 600 3 years ago for it. No biggie, until I drop a battery in it and it wouldn't turn over again.

    Basic I'm trying to save money by partial doing it my self. I'd rather try to save the engine by rebuilding it then to buy one at a junk yard.

    Guidance on what I should do would be help-Ful,

    Wish my dad was still livening, cause he would help me fix me I'm all alone on my project.
    Ty guys
    Happy holidays and happy New Years

  14. #59
    stoveguyy is offline Cadillac Owners Connoisseur
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    Drain the oil and see what comes out

  15. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by stoveguyy
    Drain the oil and see what comes out
    Choc milk oil came out of it. Dumped the anti freeze , there was only pure water in it.

    Ty stove guy

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