I was going to post this in Eldorado_Red's thread "97 ETC Headgasket Project" but I decided if someone just wanted to reference just this part, I should make a separate thread.
This is just my opinion and experience so far and nothing more. I'm not being bias or taking side, these are just my personal conclusions.
Once you have decided to remove the engine by whichever method of your liking, you'll eventually come to the crossroad of drilling and tapping the block for repair. Eldorado_Red's and my personal choice is for studs.
I suppose the inserts have to be drilled also, so some of this may apply but since I've been drilling for the studs I'm a bit more familiar in that area that the inserts.
Things you WILL need:
Cutting Fluid......Motor oil or Trans Fluid. I used trans fluid.
Drill with side handle...Mandatory 1/2" variable speed reversible
Drill Bits...... High strength for cutting metal. 1/2 and 17/32.
I have Northstar Performance's Stud kit with it's first design stud plate. The second design "X" plate looks a lot more user friendly, but that could be just "eye" appeal.
Eldorado_Red chose Carroll Custom Cadillac studs. CCC's items came out a bit cheaper for Red, but was missing drills bits, thread locker and the tap. I suppose those items can be sourced rather easily, but I happen to be a one stop shopper so my kit came with those items.
Eldorado_Red and I started to compare the head studs.
I happen to have the "shiny chrome" version of the Northstar Performance head studs. When comparing the studs, (no matter who's version), there is no comparison to the oem head bolt. One thing I did note on CCC's stud was the allen head key dimple on top of each stud to help speed up installation.
The tap needed seems to be the same for either kit, but CCC's kit calls for a bottom tap at one point in the info on the website, but states it my not be necessary in one of the videos.
The tap needed will be 5/8-11 high strength steel. The starter tap has a taper to it to align itself into the hole. The bottom tap, lacks the taper and cuts immediately.
More on that when we cross that bridge.....
DRILLING........
Here's where the fun began......
My personal opinion..........
Tape off the block with DUCT TAPE. The duct tape is more durable, and "forgivable" heaven forbid you start drilling and the drill "jumps" on you. You want to protect the deck surface of the block from any potential harm.
Take the duct tape and cover the deck surface of the block including the holes to be drilled out. Once the deck is completely covered with the duct tape, smooth the duct tape on the deck to make sure the tape sticks to the deck. (Pre cleaning the deck surface before taping is a good idea if not done so already).
Find the head bolt holes with your fingers by running them across the duct tape. The head bolt holes will leave dimples in the duct tape. You will use a single edge razor blade or x-acto knife and cut the dimples out in a circular motion by sticking the edge of the blade into the lip of the hole and trimming away the duct tape. You may need a small flatblade screwdriver to assist in removal of the dimple of tape from the head bolt hole. Do this to all the head bolt holes to be drilled out. Once the holes are exposed you are ready for drilling.
I was a bit skeptical if the holes could be drilled without a guide plate, at this point I can say yes. Yet, the reason for that, I happen to have a bit more experience with these sort of things, but if one were to feel uncomfortable I would advise using some sort of guideplate.
Even with my experience, you still had to get a "feel" on how to drill these holes out.
1. Load the drill with the 1/2 drill bit. Make sure it's TIGHT.
2. DIP the drill bit into the trans fluid/motor oil. You may want to pour a little in the hole to be drilled out.
3. Align the bit with the hole to be drilled and brace yourself firmly. (you'll understand after a few tries). Start the drill just slightly above the hole, don't have the drill going too slow or too fast. You want the bit to "fall" into the hole but cut smoothly at the same time. IF the bit GRABS (it will until you get the feel of it) hit the reverse button to back the bit out. Re oil the bit and hit forward with just enough speed to enter the hole and cut through without "grabbing" on the aluminum block.
----------
To be continued......
This is just my opinion and experience so far and nothing more. I'm not being bias or taking side, these are just my personal conclusions.
Once you have decided to remove the engine by whichever method of your liking, you'll eventually come to the crossroad of drilling and tapping the block for repair. Eldorado_Red's and my personal choice is for studs.
I suppose the inserts have to be drilled also, so some of this may apply but since I've been drilling for the studs I'm a bit more familiar in that area that the inserts.
Things you WILL need:
Cutting Fluid......Motor oil or Trans Fluid. I used trans fluid.
Drill with side handle...Mandatory 1/2" variable speed reversible
Drill Bits...... High strength for cutting metal. 1/2 and 17/32.
I have Northstar Performance's Stud kit with it's first design stud plate. The second design "X" plate looks a lot more user friendly, but that could be just "eye" appeal.
Eldorado_Red chose Carroll Custom Cadillac studs. CCC's items came out a bit cheaper for Red, but was missing drills bits, thread locker and the tap. I suppose those items can be sourced rather easily, but I happen to be a one stop shopper so my kit came with those items.
Eldorado_Red and I started to compare the head studs.
I happen to have the "shiny chrome" version of the Northstar Performance head studs. When comparing the studs, (no matter who's version), there is no comparison to the oem head bolt. One thing I did note on CCC's stud was the allen head key dimple on top of each stud to help speed up installation.
The tap needed seems to be the same for either kit, but CCC's kit calls for a bottom tap at one point in the info on the website, but states it my not be necessary in one of the videos.
The tap needed will be 5/8-11 high strength steel. The starter tap has a taper to it to align itself into the hole. The bottom tap, lacks the taper and cuts immediately.
More on that when we cross that bridge.....
DRILLING........
Here's where the fun began......
My personal opinion..........
Tape off the block with DUCT TAPE. The duct tape is more durable, and "forgivable" heaven forbid you start drilling and the drill "jumps" on you. You want to protect the deck surface of the block from any potential harm.
Take the duct tape and cover the deck surface of the block including the holes to be drilled out. Once the deck is completely covered with the duct tape, smooth the duct tape on the deck to make sure the tape sticks to the deck. (Pre cleaning the deck surface before taping is a good idea if not done so already).
Find the head bolt holes with your fingers by running them across the duct tape. The head bolt holes will leave dimples in the duct tape. You will use a single edge razor blade or x-acto knife and cut the dimples out in a circular motion by sticking the edge of the blade into the lip of the hole and trimming away the duct tape. You may need a small flatblade screwdriver to assist in removal of the dimple of tape from the head bolt hole. Do this to all the head bolt holes to be drilled out. Once the holes are exposed you are ready for drilling.
I was a bit skeptical if the holes could be drilled without a guide plate, at this point I can say yes. Yet, the reason for that, I happen to have a bit more experience with these sort of things, but if one were to feel uncomfortable I would advise using some sort of guideplate.
Even with my experience, you still had to get a "feel" on how to drill these holes out.
1. Load the drill with the 1/2 drill bit. Make sure it's TIGHT.
2. DIP the drill bit into the trans fluid/motor oil. You may want to pour a little in the hole to be drilled out.
3. Align the bit with the hole to be drilled and brace yourself firmly. (you'll understand after a few tries). Start the drill just slightly above the hole, don't have the drill going too slow or too fast. You want the bit to "fall" into the hole but cut smoothly at the same time. IF the bit GRABS (it will until you get the feel of it) hit the reverse button to back the bit out. Re oil the bit and hit forward with just enough speed to enter the hole and cut through without "grabbing" on the aluminum block.
----------
To be continued......