96 Northstar Build
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Northstar Engines and System Technical Discussion Discussion, 96 Northstar Build in Cadillac Engine Technical Discussion; Time to start building this thing. Here is the block ready for reassembly. ---------- Here is the crank back from ...
  1. #1
    daveyhouse is offline Cadillac Owners Fanatic
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    96 Northstar Rebuild

    Time to start building this thing.

    Here is the block ready for reassembly.





    ----------

    Here is the crank back from the machine shop. Had the journals polished.

    Until I am ready it will remain in a plastic bag.


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    scott f's Avatar
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    Re: 96 Northstar Build

    Looking Good!

  4. #3
    daveyhouse is offline Cadillac Owners Fanatic
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    Re: 96 Northstar Build

    Still cleaning the rest of the pistons. A clean piston is a happy piston right? 3 more to go.

    A question for the machine shop guys on here. When I picked the crank the guy told me to clean before use, because he said he treated it so it wouldn't rust. What should I use to clean it? I guess I should have asked him.

    Also while at Napa I asked them for assembly lube and this is what he gave me. Is this okay for the northstar or should I get something else.
    EDIT: Link for lube http://www.lubriplate.com/Products/A...ly-Grease.aspx


  5. #4
    Ranger's Avatar
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    Re: 96 Northstar Build

    Brakleen should clean the crank pretty well.

  6. #5
    daveyhouse is offline Cadillac Owners Fanatic
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    Re: 96 Northstar Build

    Sounds good. I am wanting to check clearances with plastigage. So brake clean compressed air and lite oil will work?

    Can I just spray with wd-40 when done? until next time it comes out of bag.

  7. #6
    daveyhouse is offline Cadillac Owners Fanatic
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    Re: 96 Northstar Build

    Okay pistons are cleaned and happy



    98eldo32v and 98eldo32v like this.

  8. #7
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    vincentm is offline Cadillac Owners Connoisseur
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    Re: 96 Northstar Build

    Those pistons DO look like they're smiling in a weird sorta way. My dad told me cars do have personalities!

  9. #8
    Ranger's Avatar
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    Re: 96 Northstar Build

    Quote Originally Posted by daveyhouse View Post
    Sounds good. I am wanting to check clearances with plastigage. So brake clean compressed air and lite oil will work?

    Can I just spray with wd-40 when done? until next time it comes out of bag.
    I would say yes to both questions. Actually, Brakleen will dry residue free without compressed air, but it removes EVERYTHING, so I'd wait until just before installation. If you can't, then be sure to re-coat it with something, WD40, motor oil, almost anything.

    ----------

    Quote Originally Posted by vincentm View Post
    My dad told me cars do have personalities!
    Probably true. Just think about some of the names you call it when working on it. Sooo many come to mind, but can't print a one.

  10. #9
    Submariner409's Avatar
    Submariner409 is offline If it won't run, chrome it
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    Re: 96 Northstar Build

    Synthetic motor oil. Short term. WD-40 dries and leaves a sticky residue that must, again, be washed off with solvents.

    Try several test patches of different lubricants or preservative sprays on old metal junk..............

  11. #10
    daveyhouse is offline Cadillac Owners Fanatic
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    Re: 96 Northstar Build

    hmmm. how about lite weight dino oil

  12. #11
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    Re: 96 Northstar Build

    It's not like you'll be storing the crank for a long period. Dino is just fine; synthetic has less tendency to run off of metals.

    For long-term storage of sensitive metal parts I recommend a product called Boeshield, most parts stores or NAPA. It's a Boeing-developed metal preservative spray that stays "greasy" - WD-40 dries to a hard film (over time) and must be washed off with solvent.

    Any old 5W-30, 10W-30, 30W you have lying around............. That way, you simply smear on some new oil and bolt it together. Use Torco, Edelbrock, CompCams or other dedicated assembly lube - everywhere. The stuff stays in bearings and on cam follower faces and prevents galling until oil pressure/flow is established. It dissolves in normal oil circulation and can remain in the engine until the first oil/filter change at 1,000 miles.

    When you do that change, chuck the filter in a vise and carefully use a hacksaw to cut around the filter case at the tapping plate. Remove the case, the media, and the media end caps. Remove the media from the center tube and portion it into 8-pleat chunks. Using the vise and rags, squeeze each media chunk dry. Now pull the media out like an accordion and inspect the surface for metal chips and junk. It will scare you to death - the first oil change after overhaul. (Oil flows from the case side, past the anti-drainback valve, through the media and out the center tube.)

    The engine you are rebuilding has flat-tappet cam followers. I recommend you research the HD 10W-30 oils from Chevron, Shell, Pennzoil, Edelbrock, JoeGibbsRacing or AMSOIL - they contain significantly more anti-scuff additives than today's SM and SN energy-conserving oils.

  13. #12
    daveyhouse is offline Cadillac Owners Fanatic
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    Re: 96 Northstar Build

    Thank you for tips, they are greatly appreciated.

    Sorry no updates today. I am getting ready to assemble the bottom end to check for clearances on the main bearings.
    I suppose I can use the old main bolts for this procedure correct?
    I have new ones but want to use those on the final assemble.
    Should I go full degree torque or not (I'm afraid of snapping the old ones) for clearance test.

  14. #13
    beebop01 is offline Banned
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    Re: 96 Northstar Build

    Did you dingleberry hone the cylinders?

  15. #14
    daveyhouse is offline Cadillac Owners Fanatic
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    Re: 96 Northstar Build

    Took the block to a machine shop. They de-glazed them, I don't know what their process is or how they do it. Had check for specs and they said everything was within spec. Only problem was #1 cylinder was a little rough.

  16. #15
    daveyhouse is offline Cadillac Owners Fanatic
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    Re: 96 Northstar Build

    Okay main bearing clearances were .0015 across the board, so I guess that means I am good there. Used brakleen to spray everything back down, and coated the entire cranked with Rotella T and re-bagged it.

    Just waiting for a tap for the studs, so we can get this thing moving.

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