Northstar Engines and System Technical Discussion Discussion, No acceleration... 2000 Deville in Cadillac Engine Discussion; ^^^ NO. If the drivetrain is in P there is no load on the engine and the transmission does not ...
^^^ NO. If the drivetrain is in P there is no load on the engine and the transmission does not enter the picture - BUT the PCM has an rpm limiter which kicks in when the stick is in P or N - you cannot rev the engine over about 4,000 rpm in those cases.
P = Powertrain - P 1122 H = Throttle position sensor circuit low voltage (History)
B = Body - B 0429 H = Temperature control #3 rear circuit range/performance (History)
C = Chassis - C 0658 H = Level control compressor circuit high (History)
U = Voltage and Serial bus Data - U 1000 H = Class 2 communication fault (History)
Almost every code you have is History and the only Current code you have is probably a transient hiccup - get into the sequence again and "Clear Codes" at the end of the readout, leave the system alone for a month and then see what has come up. Don't get into the habit of aimlessly pulling codes - you'll go mad because codes come and go like clouds unless the fault stays Current. If a code sets due to a hiccup, it stays C for 3 start-run cycles during which the fault does not appear; then it goes to H where it stays for 30 or so start-run cycles during which the fault does not appear, then it self-clears from memory.
Go back to the link and use the blue code legend in the Master Index.
So with the car bogging in park I should steer away from the transmission side of things and start looking at other circumstances? Thanks for your help Sub on informing me what these codes are and I will go in and reset them today.
Last nite finally had the check engine lite come on when the car started bogging. Stopped at Autozone to see what code popped and the damn lady couldn't read the code and somehow reset it, so I couldn't even run down to O'riely's. Checked it thru the car and the only "new" code was the PCM P0122. (TPS/Switch A circuit low input) About a month ago I had problems with the car surging and stalling so I bought a new TPS (from Autozone) and installed it myself. The old one was corroded... Well the person at AZ told me to apply electrical gel or lube around the ring before installing. So I did! Could this be causing these problems??? Is it possible that I didn't do something right while putting it in? I just lined it up and screwed it down... Ever since then I started having these other problems.The codes for the maf..I ended up taking one off a different Deville and sprayed it down with electrical cleaner..let it dry over nite and put it in. Is it possible I got a faulty TPS? Or is it possible the used maf is causing such bogging problems? Symptoms for the TPS include: rough or low idle (which I have), stalling, surging, no/little acceleration (which I really have!)... Seems like car gets hot and then the bogging acceleration problem starts. Car gets cold and then there is no issue!!! Please help! Christmas has put a damper on my funds so I haven't been able to get the cc checked to see if its plugged or not. Any idea on price to get it checked? Thanks to all for your input and suggestions!
UPDATE...Finally decided to pull off the "autozone" throttle position sensor and take it back for a new one. After arguing that their part was junk they finally gave me a replacement. I put the new one on and... wa~la! The car hasn't done it since! Its been about 5 days now and seems to be running great. Besides the fact that I can smell antifreeze now and can't yet find where its coming from...