Followed the checks according to what I posted on the troubleshooting steps and found nothing out of the ordinary. Got to step 8 which calls for a jumper, will have to go to the boneyard to snip one off. Basically step 8 checks the coils which have to be good. After that the steps stray elsewhere. So at this point I'm going to say the wiring is good for the cam sensor to get to the PCM according to the steps. I however did my own t/s and shot from pin B of the cam sensor plug to the plug at the Ignition Module and that checked good for both pins/wires A and B. But when I tried to shoot continuity through the Ignition Module (the jack side) I got an open? Maybe that's normal because power isn't applied and measuring continuity is impossible that's why I would have to measure frequency during step 8 which I stopped at?
Gonna take the coils off and see if I trace a path through the base plate of the Ignition module to the other side, might be impossible?
Another thought. We removed the same exact cam sprocket gear that is sensed by the cam sensor in order to get the timing chain and guide/slides all lined up. It would only go back on one way right? I remember a guide pin hole in the sprocket but just saying...
I hope I find something on the ICM base plate.
Post #97 the second diagram, I found the cam sensor jack on the base plate (C2) both pins A and B are shorted to pin B of the jack right next to it (C1), and pin B (C1) is "Crank A Low"? Wouldn't the cam sensor wire need its own dedicated signal wire seperate from the crank signal of "sensor A"?
I put everything back together. Started it on the first try and that cam sensor code went away! :)
I drove it about 15 minutes, checked it with my scan tool, to see if everything had run its checks yet, and it hadn't. Will have to drive it some more to make sure all the gremlins are run off.
Don't know what I did to fix it? Maybe reseatting the dual connectors on the PCM or adjusting the plug wires on the ICM?
Just have to work on the some other problems that cropped up. Air ride in the back isn't working, driver's rear is all the way down, and the pump in the rear runs non stop, and the ride isn't typcial of a caddy (real firm and bumpy). Also have some MMM codes, and that darn clock spring I broke, but those can be dealt with in another thread.
*Edit- looks like the IPC and MMM's are all related for the SIR which has the clock spring issue, and the passengers mirror which was removed by the automated car wash. On the clock spring Rock auto has one for $199/std. motor and another for $240 airtex/wells, which one should I get, if not used?