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98 ETC head gasket project started today...

46K views 266 replies 26 participants last post by  CadillacLuke24 
#1 ·
Well I decided to get into it today... But I am taking a very casual approach to begin. One of the main things is making sure the job is as easy as it can be and that I'm not frustrated by not having the right equipment or tools... That being said, I already faced one frustration by trying to de-couple the fuel lines with plastic disconnect tools...:thumbdown: My advice... Get the metal ones!

Anyway, I am going to drop the cradle I have an engine hoist, a pallet jack and plenty of jack stands, including 2 extra tall ones, so that should help. I have been plugging along and am at step 36 in the FSM (p. 6-85) which says to separate the drive axles from the steering knuckle... My question is if I am dropping everything all together, can't I leave the axles alone?
 
#243 ·
I'll use some lacquer thinner. I didn't realize how soft the deposits were until I scraped some off today. Shouldn't be a problem. The pistons and rings aren't that bad. I would not have even pulled the pistons out if it weren't for my stupidity described in post #205.
 
#244 ·
I would not have even pulled the pistons out if it weren't for my stupidity described in post #205.
Hey - no obscenity (words like 'stupidity') allowed! I prefer to think of my own 'alternate methods of assembly' as just opportunities to find ways to do things more efficiently, the next time around.

Cheers,
Steve
 
#246 ·
I used diesel fuel and one of them 5 buck air wands with a vacum line in the 5gal can of diesel to clean up the oil stains/crud around the timing gears. It worked great, just a bit messy and i suppose the fumes are not really that great to be breathing but i love the smell of diesel! I have even found if you filter used oil through a old tee shirt, you can spray it on the underside of the car in the frame and suspension components 2 or 3 times a year for rust prevention. I had a friend who did it religiously on an old 70's Dodge van and it had no rust at all on it, that was also in the snow belt south of Buffalo NY.
 
#249 ·
I never found an answer to the question about just installing the new rear main seal before before attaching the lower block case and then tightening it into place as the main bolts are reinstalled. Will that work or should I wait until the bottom is back together and use the press tool?
 
#250 ·
Only having done one N*, I would vote on waiting till after the lower case is cinched down. My one experience was using the latest, genuine GM seal.

The inner portion of the seal is metal (at least on the year engine I worked on), and pressed over the crankshaft. The tool that I used, the latest version, forced the seal to be installed straight, not cocked, and to a specific depth - the tool stopped when it encountered the block/lower case. With that seal, I would not attempt to install it before the lower case was mated with the block.

Cheers,
Steve
 
#252 ·
Jim, when I split my block, the rear main seal basically almost fell out. That's why I asked if it could be reinstalled that way. But I wouldn't try it. Like Steve said, it is pressed to a certain depth.
 
#255 ·
If you are referring to the picture, it is a Piston ring compressor that allows you to install pistons into the cylinders. The sleeve is tapered and is the precise size to fit a Northstar piston. As you slide the piston in, the rings compress so you can slide it in. Can't wait to try it out... Just need to find time.

Good pics of one in action here, Glenn...

http://www.cadillacforums.com/forum...-northstar-head-gasket-crankcase-leak-35.html
 
#256 ·
eyewonder said:
Only having done one N*, I would vote on waiting till after the lower case is cinched down. My one experience was using the latest, genuine GM seal.

The inner portion of the seal is metal (at least on the year engine I worked on), and pressed over the crankshaft. The tool that I used, the latest version, forced the seal to be installed straight, not cocked, and to a specific depth - the tool stopped when it encountered the block/lower case. With that seal, I would not attempt to install it before the lower case was mated with the block.

Cheers,
Steve
What tool are you referring to?
 
#258 ·
Glenn, Steve (eyewonder) was talking about the rear main seal installer tool. It is a specialty tool that presses the rear main seal to the crankshaft output. You will absolutely need that tool if you do the rear main seal. They aren't cheap, but here is a great deal for one....

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Kent-Moore-...ols&hash=item3f19047b09&vxp=mtr#ht_1218wt_952

As for the piston compressor, you don't necessarily need that exact tool, but you will need some kind of piston ring compressor if you pull your pistons out. You could always use the older style piston compressor tool that is adjustable, but these are far superior and easier to use.
 
#259 ·
Faded Crest said:
As for the piston compressor, you don't necessarily need that exact tool, but you will need some kind of piston ring compressor if you pull your pistons out. You could always use the older style piston compressor tool that is adjustable, but these are far superior and easier to use.
That crankcase tool wasn't cheap. I guess I could sell it afterwards. :)
If I plan to check/replace the rings I might as well get a tool to put the pistons back. I could use them. :) Where and how much for that piston compressor?
 
#260 ·
Glenn, click the link on my post #255. Someone has a line on a less expensive ring compressor sleeve. Like $30. Mine is an ARP tool and was around $60 delivered. I would have bought the $30 one if I had seen the link in time. That press actually is pretty "cheap" at $99. There are those who have paid over $300 for the same tool. I think I paid $115 for mine.
 
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