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Northstar Engines and System Technical Discussion Discussion, 99 STS Project in Cadillac Engine Technical Discussion; this forum is great lots of cady people on here, if you have a problem just post it. My biggest ...
  1. #286
    JoeTahoe is offline Cadillac Owners Fanatic
    Automobile(s): 2001 GMC SLT,Tahoe, Malibu LTZ, 99 STS studded with NP
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    Re: 99 STS Project

    this forum is great lots of cady people on here, if you have a problem just post it. My biggest advise is to use Northstar Performance Shure Grip Studs and get a Factory service manual. nice looking Seville and welcome to forum
    maeng9981 and maeng9981 like this.

  2. #287
    iflipcars's Avatar
    iflipcars is offline Cadillac Owners Member
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    Re: 99 STS Project

    Joe,

    I just read this entire thread, very good information. I just did HG repair, put engine back in (without touching the lower end). I am looking to sell car, not love it for life. Anyways, I am paying now for trying to save a few bucks, the case and or rear seal are leaking badly, bad enough to pull engine again.

    From reading the thread, I gathered this info. Can you confirm for me?

    1. New Rod bolts (are they bolts or studs coming out of the rod ?)
    2. GM sealant for split case. (I was going to use RTV Grey, would that cut it ?) Also, the FSM shows the use of seals and talks about making sure the seals are in the groove etc... You do not mention the use of seals, I notice that GM Parts giant shows the seals as "unavailable" and I believe says to use RTV.

    Exactly what you did with the lower to upper crankcase seal would be great.


    FYI, the engine runs great. I wanted to use Jake's studs too, but couldn't wait, so went with Norm's serts.

    thanks,

  3. #288
    89falcon is offline Cadillac Owners Fanatic
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    Re: 99 STS Project

    Quote Originally Posted by matt<3's_cadillacs View Post


    Amazing thread people I have spent the last two hours pumping my brain full of extremely useful information. I have a 98 sts gaskets just went bad from having a crack in the radiator resovuoir overheated 3 times now I'm blowing white smoke random miltuple misfires ect ect. Now I ****ed myself a problem that could have been easly avoided. But now I can put the blood sweat and tears into my car just like you have and how I've always wanted to.

    Iwill begin next month after I collect all my parts here's what I got :

    Welcome!!!

    But I think you have it backwards......you likely have a crack in your radiator reservoir from a bad head gasket.

    When the gasket starts to go, it can throw some pretty good pressure into the cooling system....the pressure comes in waves that can damage pretty much any part of the cooling system before the pressure cap has a chance to relieve it.

    I know this because I'm an especially slow learner.....I replaced the overflow tank, the radiator, the water pump, the thermostat, the heater core and a couple hoses before finally admitting to myself that my HGs had given up the ghost....

  4. #289
    matt<3's_cadillacs is offline Cadillac Owners Member
    Automobile(s): 98 sts seville
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    I did have a crack in the resovouir and patched . Before I did as you know the water would leak out slowly and the car would go from normal temperature to overheating problems. Before that I had to replace the starter after taking that out I found it to be in pieces! The dome that holds the shaft in place was completely broke off! The guys at orileys completely freaked out when that saw it. There's still small fragments i could not recover in the case that holds the Flywheel. So after I did that the car was able to retain its coolant but still was overheating . Then I replaced the thermostat. But to no avail the car still overheated with a full resovouir. Then soon after began to emit gradually more and more white smoke at idle. The resovouir has very low pressure and then the cap is removed to relieve the little pressure that it had it would go back to normal operating temperature. After a lot of research and talking to a buddy of mind from San Antonio he says to just replace the engine! Crazy ass mo fo. So feel I have no choice but to replace the head gasket .

  5. #290
    JoeTahoe is offline Cadillac Owners Fanatic
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    Re: 99 STS Project

    new rod bolts, but if you are only gonna reseal you dont need to touch the rods. I used gm sealant on the Eldo I did. On my STS I bought all the Felpro gaskets from Jake and he sent a calk tube of permatex rtv and it worked great. I believe it was called great stuff with a set time of 15 min. GM has a service bullitan on the resealing the bottom end. You do not use any of the seals only rtv. You do need a special tool for the rear main seal, and if memory serves me right Jake had problems with felpro in this area, I think he recomends a GM seal at the rear main. Also get a new oil manifold plate. I hope this helps, Joe

  6. #291
    matt<3's_cadillacs is offline Cadillac Owners Member
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    I hear of the special tool often . I also hear its the least of my worrys apparently there is another special tool or maybe the same special tool for the timing . This has been my main concern. The dismantlement of the engine is what I can handle but the timing and procedure to torque the head bolt is what I worrying about I have read the thread by stealth on 98 northstar head gasket replacement by the book. I'm trying to verify this and get my hands on this boook.

  7. #292
    Submariner409's Avatar
    Submariner409 is offline If it won't run, chrome it
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    Re: 99 STS Project

    matt, Click my username, open my profile - two albums in the left column, 6 pages of Northstar stuff - several of engine parts and chain timing. To hold the 4 cams, study CF for the cam bearing cap bolt proper torque for your engine. Time the engine in the car, then remove each cam bearing cap nearest the sprockets. Lay a thin strip of paper (computer printer paper is fine) in each cap and properly torque the caps in place. This will lock the cams. You need to pin the 3 chain tensioner hydraulic slippers in their fully retracted positions. Make a careful note of the markings on the 4 cam chain sprockets - some are a bit funny, with the RE sprocket stamping being 90 degrees to true - in that case you use the timing dot at 12:00.

    If you remove the cams to check the follower buckets for wear, use plenty of magic marker - it hurts nothing.

    ...........anyway, either get a real GM/Helm service manual (eBay or www.helminc.com) or subscribe the car to www.alldatadiy.com.

  8. #293
    naif is offline Cadillac Owners Connoisseur
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    Re: 99 STS Project

    Quote Originally Posted by submariner409 View Post
    ...Lay a thin strip of paper (computer printer paper is fine) in each cap and properly torque the caps in place. This will lock the cams...
    Careful with that stuff. Use only paper rated for laser printers. Don't use rags/shop towels/newspaper. (cheap recycled paper -> metal fragments)

  9. #294
    matt<3's_cadillacs is offline Cadillac Owners Member
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  10. #295
    matt<3's_cadillacs is offline Cadillac Owners Member
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    Re: 99 STS Project

    thank you sub ive looked over the photos they will be very usefull once i get to that area

    ----------

    omg i have completley forgot about alldata this is goning to help so so much thanks again sub

  11. #296
    89falcon is offline Cadillac Owners Fanatic
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    Re: 99 STS Project

    Quote Originally Posted by matt<3's_cadillacs View Post
    I did have a crack in the resovouir and patched . Before I did as you know the water would leak out slowly and the car would go from normal temperature to overheating problems.

    So after I did that the car was able to retain its coolant but still was overheating . Then I replaced the thermostat. But to no avail the car still overheated with a full resovouir. Then soon after began to emit gradually more and more white smoke at idle. The resovouir has very low pressure and then the cap is removed to relieve the little pressure that it had it would go back to normal operating temperature. After a lot of research and talking to a buddy of mind from San Antonio he says to just replace the engine! Crazy ass mo fo. So feel I have no choice but to replace the head gasket .
    That is EXACTLY where my cooling system first started to "give up the ghost"....small leak at the connection at the bottom of the radiator....started in Vegas....drove 25 miles each day...highway...during the fall. Drove the car back to Colorado, with no trouble (Winter)...replaced the reservoir....then the Radiator exploded....then the Heater core exploded.....

    I think that the connection on the bottom of the reservoir is the "weak" area on the car....first to go....

    Not once did I let it overheat until the HG's were completely gonzo....I stick to my story....your headgaskets caused you cooling system to fail...not the other way around.

    Get the FSMs.....if you've ever built a modern engine, you can handle the N*.......all the talk about "special tools" and "tough to time" are just that....talk.....the only "special tools" I can think of would be the tool for the rear oil seal (I actually think you can make your own...), a BIG ASS BREAKER BAR to get the front crank bolt off...and a flywheel lock (since you broke the the starter hole....you may not want to use the "jam a big screwdriver in there" technique....and whatever tools you need for Studs or inserts. If you use studs, there is no need to use the "degree" procedure on the headbolts.....you use a torque spec.

  12. #297
    vincentm's Avatar
    vincentm is offline Cadillac Owners Connoisseur
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    Re: 99 STS Project


    Are you dropping the cradle or pulling it out the top?

  13. #298
    iflipcars's Avatar
    iflipcars is offline Cadillac Owners Member
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    Re: 99 STS Project

    Quote Originally Posted by JoeTahoe View Post
    new rod bolts, but if you are only gonna reseal you dont need to touch the rods. I used gm sealant on the Eldo I did. On my STS I bought all the Felpro gaskets from Jake and he sent a calk tube of permatex rtv and it worked great. I believe it was called great stuff with a set time of 15 min. GM has a service bullitan on the resealing the bottom end. You do not use any of the seals only rtv. You do need a special tool for the rear main seal, and if memory serves me right Jake had problems with felpro in this area, I think he recomends a GM seal at the rear main. Also get a new oil manifold plate. I hope this helps, Joe
    thanks Joe, I ordered some gasket material called "The right stuff" from permatex awhile back because of its excellent reviews somewhere, was probably jake, I think that is the RTV you speak of. So I'm good to go. Did you actually use the tool Joe? If im splitting the case, Can't I place the seal in its place in the main cap and tighten it down and voila?? The tool is used for installing the seal when the engine is assembled, but I will have split the mains.....is this not recommended?

  14. #299
    RippyPartsDept's Avatar
    RippyPartsDept is offline Hi, I'm Chris - Please Read My Signature
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    Re: 99 STS Project

    we use permatex's Ultra Grey - as far as we can tell it's basically the same as GM's grey stuff #12378521
    (we had a couple problems with a bad batch of the GM stuff - it wasn't setting up and staying wet so we switched)

    back in the day Saturn used to recommend permatex's Right Stuff for some applications

    we stock both now but only one Right Stuff and a whole bunch of Ultra Grey ... and we go through the Ultra Grey ... the Right Stuff can has probably been up there for a month or two now

    by the way, Right Stuff is black and Ultra Grey is grey (duh)
    Chris Heath (RippyPartsDept) is an ASE Certified GM Parts Consultant at Rippy Automotive
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  15. #300
    JoeTahoe is offline Cadillac Owners Fanatic
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    Re: 99 STS Project

    you really need the rear main tool. I bought a used one on ebay, its the only way to do it. Its a two piece seal so it has to be pressed on the crankshaft

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