The sheer numbers of threads on this question, in here, Seville, and Deville, is mind-boggling. There was just (within the past week) a practically identical titled thread on the same question.
Short answer: Yes, some have tried it. The length of time the "fix" works seems to be dependent on the phase of the moon and the temperature in Antarctica. Seriously !!!
Know that Bar's Head Gasket/Block repair (the copper powder bottle of thick fluid) is sodium-silicate based. Sodium Silicate, (also known as "water glass") is the basic ingredient used to ruin engines in the Cash For Clunkers program by government direction. Once that stuff is in your heads/block, I would guess that they are not then repairable.
Automobile(s): 1997 ETC (GAVE TO STEPSON 2011), 2000 DTS (RIP)
FOUNTAIN HILLS, AZ
Re: barS headgasket repair, has anyone tried it?
Sub is correct - a temporary fix at best, ruins your engine and plugs up your heater core at worst. I think the consensus is not to use these products in cars you intend to keep. Whether to repair or junk the car depends less on the dollars and cents, and more on how much you like the car and how long you want to keep it.
For those of you who wish to continue the debate, just skip this reply. For those who want to learn something constructive, read on.
I've used the Barsleak brand head gasket repair in quite a few cars and it works really, really well.
Most recently in my father-in-law's 99 Eldo with 121k miles.
First and foremost, use it on a car that is just beginning to have a leakage or overheating problem. Why? Because if you keep driving and overheating the car, it will certainly pull the studs and you'll be looking at the full repair. It is made to fix small headgasket leaks, not perform miracles on blocks with no threads for the bolts to grab onto.
If you catch the problem before the headstuds pull and follow the directions TO THE LETTER, this stuff is amazing.
I was a little worried about the pressure at the gasket so I doubled the dose (2 bottles) on the Northstar.
For those of you who claim that it clogs this or ruins that, it's clear that you've either never used it or didn't follow the directions.
It's to be diluted in water and added to the engine that way. You run at about 1500rpm's for 20 minutes and then let idle for another hour. Then you let the car cool for an hour and then (yes, while the water is still hot) you drain everything.
Then let it sit for 24 hours and flush completely.
We added the required 3 GM sealant tabs into the lower hose and filled with Dexcool.
Dad's El-Dog is still kickin after thousands of miles and it cost us less than $50! If I have to do it again next year, that won't bother me a bit!
I'm not going to spend a minute responding to people who don't believe me. I don't care if you believe me or not. I don't own stock in Barsleak and I don't care if you'd rather waste $5k instead of trying a $50 fix.
thanks for the help guys, worse case, if i repair the HG's can anyone reccomend someone in minneasota? i called northstar preformance, they seem to have a good rep, but i would have to ship the engine up there, if i was going to do that, i will just buy a re-man engine from them.
and one more thing, when does my wifes 99 seville, blow the doors off, of my 97 eldo? kinda hurts my ego...