Automobile(s): 2002.5 F55 STS, 2014 Explorer XLT 4WD
MD Eastern Shore
Re: Check out my Headgasket Job in the car!!!!
aac123, You need to create a folder of pictures that are about 50 - 95 kb in size, then use that to browse to as dkoz suggested. If you expect to be a regular contributor, create a "CF post pix" folder and slowly fill it up with good stuff. When you "go advanced", surf to the folder and upload what you want. You can also load pix into your private album......see the little album folder under your name ? Click on it.
One workaround large file size pix is to go to your camera or folder, e-mail the pix to yourself with the tool "Make my pictures smaller". It reduces the file size only, not the actual pic.........then open your own attachment and "save as" to your CF pic folder......
Thanks for the help guys,justed wanted to know what u think about cylinder #7 with the coolant in it since all other valves are clean and dry is #7 probally were the headbolt and gasket has failed the worse.Also read the other guys threads on doing them in the car was just wondering if somebody could chime in on how im going to get the back head off??? Take the moter mounts off and pull the engine forward is it that easy?? Thanks alot This place is alot of help and fun.
I haven't done the job in the car before, although I have done the job before. I think you're going to have to pull the head with the exhaust manifold still attached. There's 2 bolts hooking the exhaust manifold to the exhaust Y pipe, that's probably your best bet. You may have to lower the rear part of the cradle a little or take out the passenger side motor mount to get at it though. The coolant crossover, you can leave in place, just undo the 2 bolts which may cause you to have to take off the transaxle range switch (mark it before removal). There are two coolant pipes going over the exhaust manifold that you need to disconnect. Anyways, I hope you have small hands, a universal joint, lots of extensions, and are able to cuss a lot, because that's what you'll need. lol
Doing the job in the car means that you will not be able to use Jake's stud kit. Instead your repair options are limited to timeserts, and norms threaded inserts. Timeserts have a better drill guide (from what I've read). But Norms seems to hold better. Check out this thread for more information: http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums...ilure-fix.html
Hey guys thanks for the input especially the one about the exaust and stuff, I was wondering about that and if i would be able to use jacks stud kits with it in the car. I would looooooooooooooovvvvvvvvvvvveeeeee to just drop the cradle but with no garage or equipment or the right funds I must cuss scrape and bloody knuckle it in the car.
Also I was kind of timid about even drilling new head bolts because I have never done that on an engine before maybe i would try it if i droped the cradle, but one wrong slip will I am bending over the fender while Im tapping would mean I just wasted the whole project.
So how many miles could I get If I just clean out the holes real good and put new head bolts and gasket in. I am just looking for the best route for a northstar novice to get the best RIDING car in the world back on the road.
Thanks for the help and all or any input is gratly appreciated.
So how many miles could I get If I just clean out the holes real good and put new head bolts and gasket in...
To be honest, you would be lucky if you are able to even torque all the head bolts down without stripping the threads from the block. The integrity of the aluminum has already been compromised from age and even more so from just removing the old head bolts. You need the bolts to be gripping new metal, otherwise you'll be doing the job again in the near future.
Ya I didnt think I could get by with just putting new bolts but was reading the fsm and they had some way of measuring the length of the head bolt to the face and if it was one they would trash the block basically saying not worth the repai and couldnt be in inventory but the other way was just put new headbolts, that makes more commen sense what u guys said about the block being old already and stuff neeeds fresh aluminum to grip
A common problem with bad HG's is the threads that hold the head bolts corroding. You cannot retighten the bolts because the threads are stripped.
Trying to do the job the car requires a special close quarters drill to drill out the holes for the inserts.
Drilling and tapping the inserts is not hard. I used timeserts and it comes with a guide to insure you drill the holes in the right place and square to the block. If you follow the directions it is very hard to do it wrong. It becomes a long process but it is not hard, it's just doing all 20 holes that becomes a little tedious.
I would try to find somewhere to do this job where you can drop the cradle.
The only tool you are saving by doing it in the car is the engine hoist. Every other tool you will still need, plus you will need the special drill. If you can find an inexpensive hoist you can resell it or look into renting one. I prefer buying and reselling so it's available when you need it.
I have done a HG job in the car, and I can say it is possible. You must remove the rear head with the exhaust manifold attached, as mentioned above. I didnt have to tilt the engine in my 98 Deville. You will need to drill and install the timeserts or whatever you want to use, a 1/2 inch right angle drill is necessary for the rear holes, and some of the front holes. Also, I had to use an air ratchet to start some of the holes, and then I finished them off with the right angle drill. If you are at all creative you can do this job while in the car. Search for a post I left with some tips concerning timing, etc.
thanks bigtone ur thread was the one that made me even think it is possible to do in the car i was just wondering do i have to take out the transmission or anything special to tilt the engine forward to do the back bank