Northstar Engines and System Technical Discussion Discussion, Real Performance Parts for the L37 in Cadillac Engine Technical Discussion; I found a smaller buisness that does custom engine parts, They say they can get 600Hp out of one of ...
I found a smaller buisness that does custom engine parts, They say they can get 600Hp out of one of these engines. Not a cheap upgrade, but It is real parts. Somethings would be hard to fit on the cady, but if you are looking for real performance upgrades, I think this is where you need to start. They do quite a bit, you just need to call and ask. Also integrating into the car would be interesting, but I don't think it would be too dificult. http://www.mechtech-ms.com/northstarSupercharger.php
BTW: On a side note IF I rebuild my northstar this summer (thats a major IF), I will grind down the surface on the heads to increase the comprestions ratio. If anybody has done this let me know, Or should I grind down the block instead.Yes I have allthe things I need, including a CNC mill if I really want to get carried away and bore it out a little more.
Before you start grinding heads and shaving block/decks, you might do some homework into the valve-to-piston clearances in a Northstar, why the pistons are already flycut, what the deck height vs. rod length is, and why there is a specification for head gasket compressed thickness. You cannot bore the liners/block. Your statement that you want to raise compression, immediately preceded by a supercharger link, is apples and oranges.
Chrfab and mechtech make specialized parts for Northstar engine conversions in sand rails and a few rear engine bodies. Nothing for the dedicated FWD Seville/Deville/Eldorado platforms.
Yeah, again that is a big IF, and IF i did do that I was hopefull to find some information here. Like how much clearence comes factory, etc. I don't think it would be near as a pain in the ass as my cousins BMW, there was an issue where we had to resurface the heads and the block, but if we took off a total of greater than .030" we were screwed and the valves would hit the pistons. About boring it out, how thick are the cylinder inserts? Because if they arn't to thick I can make new ones without too much trouble. The issue becomes how much material I have left to put them in, If I make them on size with really tight tolerances, I should be able to just hit them in with a hamer, after a bath in liquid nitrogen, then after the warm to room temp, they shouldn't move at all. I personaly am not planning on superchargin it. That is just another resource for people who are considering it. Plus that company offers better fuel delivary systems, headers, and a variety of other parts and accesories that would be nice. No I would also probably turbo it before I would super charge it. There is not as much required when it comes to fooling the computer after turboing the engine. Plus I would do a small twin turbo setup that has little boost, maybe 4or 6 PSI, but that they reach maximum boost realitavly quickly. But I have NO plans for forced induction right now, Especially not being able to just retune the factory PCM. I hope somebody finds the information from mechtech usefull.
Darn trouble is that the liners are cast in, not drop-in, it's an open deck design, and there are no oversized pistons or rings available on the open market....special order only, scary expensive. Even the rod and crank bearings can't be turned......bad crank, bearings.....must buy new parts, no resizing available.
The BIG problem we all face, as tuners and modifiers for our daily drivers, is that the just aren't any goodies available out there. The installation problems are one thing, but the demand just isn't there. There are a couple of small companies doing some Northstar work, but they are now primarily focusing on the 2005 and newer stuff. Us 1996 - 2004 strokers are left in the dust.
Now you need to keep snooping around in here and Seville/Deville to find the bits and pieces that will yield a few (darn few) HP and make your car a pleasing ride. Go up in the black bar and read the entire Cadillac Technical Archive. Google "knize oil filter study". Read up on some of the sneaky airbox mods which give a HP or two and don't cost an arm and a leg. Keep watching AJ's work, and go fast .
Sorry its been so long. I did find a few more things. But everything, I mean everything is on hold. Even replacing the rear shocks. One of the benifits of being a college student I guess. In fact if anybody knows of a suitible standard shock and spring set for the rear suspension that dosn't cost an arm and a leg, I would love to know.
I did notice that I can find heads for dirt cheap. Prolly because of how many blocks loose threads and are scraped. My initiall thought except I have no cash or resources, was to aquire a set and do some custom top end work over an entire summer. Mostly having custom cams cut and then just upgrading hardware for durability. (inserts etc). However I'm still left with the problem of how long it would take to do a swap for a track weekend, and then I'm still left with the problem of tuning. Essentially without that I could actuallly reduce power. It seems no mater what I come up with, or find in parts, its not the install thats a problem, its that it comes down to needing to be tuned.
I almost had it dyno tuned over thanksgiving break. A place in Idaho Falls, ID reckoned they could do it. The place is called Powerlabs. Unfortunatlly I had to leave for AZ on sunday, and we were unable to find a time to get it done the few days I was there. I was truley bumed at that.
Thats about it, the only thing I did do, and I'm quite happy with it, is install an exhaust cutout for track days. All said and done was like $50, performance gain is quite noticable, but I think just that amazing sound is inspiration enough to go faster.
Any money I put into this thing if any will go towards installing some NMO antenna mounts for my VHF, CB, and anyother radio I install in the future. Or...upgrades for handling. I did go to the track and have some fun. I will be posting somewhere else on that. Next thing will be an STB, prolly going to be a 3 piece, I'm going to laser cut some mouting brackets, and weld some reinforcment to it while also providing a mounting point for the bar. Anyways, I will post that somewhere if I ever get around to it.
Also remember that if you mill the heads/block you're changing your cam timing too. Very little, but that's part of the overhead cam design.
You'd get more power out of a port/polish job than milling the heads down. These are already running 10.3:1 (10.0:1 for 2000+). That's not bad for stock, and with the knock sensor operating properly they'll run on 87 octane without a problem.