1999 Seville OVERHEATING - Page 4
Cadillac
 

Cadillac Forums | Help Us Help You | Advertise | Cadillac Parts | Cadillac News | Cadillac Classifieds

Cadillac Technical Archive | Cadillac Dealers | Cadillac Reviews | Cadillac Dealer Reviews | Cadillac Vendors

CadillacForums.com is the premier Cadillac Forum on the internet. Registered Users do not see the above ads.
+ Reply to Thread
Page 4 of 4 FirstFirst 1 2 3 4
Results 46 to 60 of 60
Like Tree11Likes
Northstar Engines and System Technical Discussion Discussion, 1999 Seville OVERHEATING in Cadillac Engine Discussion; Originally Posted by edb150 My shop has successfully repaired 98 Cadillacs with bad head gaskets, most had new water pumps, ...
  1. #46
    89falcon is offline Cadillac Owners Fanatic
    Automobile(s): my wife crazy, 1997 STS, 2004 CTS
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Posts
    188

    Re: 1999 Cadillac Seville OVERHEATING :(

    Quote Originally Posted by edb150 View Post
    My shop has successfully repaired 98 Cadillacs with bad head gaskets, most had new water pumps, radiators, hoses, and fans etc etc. by the time they got to me. Unfortunately its usually the head gaskets. I have seen a couple that the test showed good but still had blown head gaskets. I have only tested 5 cars with the test as most are easily diagnosed without the test. Whoever fixes it make sure it gets inserts or studs or it will be time wasted. Not to mention money wasted.
    Mine got a new overflow reservoir (the first thing to go)...then a water pump......two hoses.....then radiator.....then heater (a fun and messy failure....)...then another hose......so I didn't bother with the "test"....pulled the engine...and upon pulling the heads, the failure was OBVIOUS.

    I think my failure happened over a pretty long period of time...it didn't just fail massively one day.....symptoms just got worse...and worse and worse...


  2. #47
    Ranger's Avatar
    Ranger is offline Cadillac Owners Member
    Automobile(s): White Diamond '03 DHS (with DTS floor shift)
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Woodstock Ill.
    Age
    68
    Posts
    81,927

    Re: 1999 Cadillac Seville OVERHEATING :(

    I think my failure happened over a pretty long period of time...it didn't just fail massively one day.....symptoms just got worse...and worse and worse...
    That's the norm. They never fail catastrophically. It's a long, slow painful death.

  3. #48
    ChuckDog is offline Cadillac Owners Member
    Automobile(s): 99 Seville STS
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Posts
    1

    AngryRe: 1999 Cadillac Seville OVERHEATING :(

    Good evening; Guys i just got threw re-doing a 1999 Cad. Seville STS semi complete cooling system that is redoing the water pump housing gasket, therm. replace, radiator new out the box, coolant temp. sensor,100% antifreeze not 50/50.
    But every time i drive it on the highway it shows half gauge, after getting off the highway and driving about 3mins. it starts to climb in temp. 6mins. off highway its running hot, my fan are coming on both of them, but it still rises in temp., but it seems that as long as i'm on the highway it never passes half gauge.
    Can someone guide me in the right direction away from the DealerShip?__.

  4. Remove Advertisements
    Cadillac Forums
    Advertisements
     

  5. #49
    Ranger's Avatar
    Ranger is offline Cadillac Owners Member
    Automobile(s): White Diamond '03 DHS (with DTS floor shift)
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Woodstock Ill.
    Age
    68
    Posts
    81,927

    Re: 1999 Cadillac Seville OVERHEATING :(



    Guide you to where? Diagnosis or repair?

    For diagnosis first check the purge line. If that's clear get a block test kit. You can borrow one from AutoZone. Run the test per the instructions to check for exhaust gases in the surge tank. Being a '99 I would not get my hopes to high though. Unfortunately, like many people you probably wasted a lot of money, time and effort throwing parts at it hoping one will stick.

  6. #50
    Submariner409's Avatar
    Submariner409 is offline If it won't run, install a boombox
    Automobile(s): 2002.5 F55 STS - 67,500 miles, 2014 Explorer XLT FWD
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    MD Eastern Shore, Kent Island
    Age
    77
    Posts
    55,918

    Re: 1999 Cadillac Seville OVERHEATING :(

    .......... and 100% coolant freezes and boils at a lower temperature than the recommended 50/50 mix, and 100% coolant DOES NOT remove as much heat per liquid volume as 50/50. The various "water wetters" will not do a thing for you, so forget that, too.

    As Ranger posted, you need to do a thorough cooling system diagnosis and stop throwing parts at it.

    Here is approximately the temperatures you're looking at (the tick marks on the earlier 130 degree sweep gauge correspond to the ticks on this gauge). The notations are not applicable to Northstar cooling sysems after 2005.
    Attached Images
    duke7595 likes this.

  7. #51
    Rick777888 is offline Cadillac Owners Member
    Automobile(s): 1999 Seville
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Age
    67
    Posts
    4

    Re: 1999 Cadillac Seville OVERHEATING :(

    Should the purge line pump water into the purge tank with a steady flow or with a pulsing action?
    duke7595 likes this.

  8. #52
    Submariner409's Avatar
    Submariner409 is offline If it won't run, install a boombox
    Automobile(s): 2002.5 F55 STS - 67,500 miles, 2014 Explorer XLT FWD
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    MD Eastern Shore, Kent Island
    Age
    77
    Posts
    55,918

    Re: 1999 Cadillac Seville OVERHEATING :(

    Fairly steady flow at idle, increasing in volume as rpm is raised. Spits and sputters that clear up shortly after engine start is a small air pocket being purged. Constant sputtering, with bubbles, is not good. No flow is not good.

    A pulsating flow with no bubbles is probably OK, but flow should smooth out as engine rpm is increased.

    ...........remember - correct coolant level in the surge tank is half full, cold. Don't check/adjust level with the engine any more than barely warm.

    Welcome to the Funny Farm!! You must have your site viewing preferences set to "View oldest posts/threads first". This thread had been dead for 4 years.
    duke7595 likes this.

  9. #53
    Ranger's Avatar
    Ranger is offline Cadillac Owners Member
    Automobile(s): White Diamond '03 DHS (with DTS floor shift)
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Woodstock Ill.
    Age
    68
    Posts
    81,927

    Re: 1999 Cadillac Seville OVERHEATING :(

    Quote Originally Posted by Rick777888 View Post
    Should the purge line pump water into the purge tank with a steady flow or with a pulsing action?
    The important thing is that the line is clear and flows coolant. The flow rate is irrelevant.

  10. #54
    Paul London's Avatar
    Paul London is offline Cadillac Owners Connoisseur
    Automobile(s): '98 AND '99 Seville STS's (a.k.a. STS1 & STS2)
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    London, England
    Posts
    1,112

    Re: 1999 Cadillac Seville OVERHEATING :(

    Quote Originally Posted by Submariner409 View Post
    Fairly steady flow at idle, increasing in volume as rpm is raised. Spits and sputters that clear up shortly after engine start is a small air pocket being purged. Constant sputtering, with bubbles, is not good. No flow is not good.

    A pulsating flow with no bubbles is probably OK, but flow should smooth out as engine rpm is increased.

    ...........remember - correct coolant level in the surge tank is half full, cold. Don't check/adjust level with the engine any more than barely warm.

    Welcome to the Funny Farm!! You must have your site viewing preferences set to "View oldest posts/threads first". This thread had been dead for 4 years.
    but there's life in the old thread yet: it's helped me 'cos it gave info. I'd not seen elsewhere.

    Replacing the pressure cap (NOT cheap here) stopped the water coming out of the surge tank & then replacing the 'stat meant the bottom hose felt only a little cooler than the top one (whereas before it was barely warm) that leaves the purge line (following Sub's advice elsewhere not to throw money/parts at it) which clearly needs attention: before I did the 'stat it spluttered (like a domestic faucet after the supply been interrupted) but afterwards - nothing! (at least at idle). I know now what I have to do (although removing the airbox &, it seems, the MAF sensor, to get at the "other" end out in the street, in the dark won't be a lot of fun) AND what, having cleared/by-passed any blockage, I should expect.

  11. #55
    Submariner409's Avatar
    Submariner409 is offline If it won't run, install a boombox
    Automobile(s): 2002.5 F55 STS - 67,500 miles, 2014 Explorer XLT FWD
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    MD Eastern Shore, Kent Island
    Age
    77
    Posts
    55,918

    Re: 1999 Cadillac Seville OVERHEATING :(

    If your engine has the coolant-heated throttlebody, those are known to clog and cause purge flow issues.

    Bypass the TB circuit and replace the entire purge line with proper sized reinforced rubber fuel line from a parts house. Screw-type band clamps. Be careful wth that plastic surge tank nipple.

    Coolant heated throttlebody ???? Theory says that, with the throttle blade almost closed - idle speeds - the rapid expansion of the air on the vacuum side of the throttle blade can cause ice formation on cool, humid mornings. Heat the throttle bore. Old carburetor stuff - the heat riser - did that as well as assured cold fuel atomization. But we have port fuel injection. Our throttlebody is bolted to an aluminum water crossover so it naturally heats as the coolant does so. Heated throttlebody = redundant, and it lasted only 2 years or so.
    Attached Images
    duke7595 likes this.

  12. #56
    Paul London's Avatar
    Paul London is offline Cadillac Owners Connoisseur
    Automobile(s): '98 AND '99 Seville STS's (a.k.a. STS1 & STS2)
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    London, England
    Posts
    1,112

    Re: 1999 Cadillac Seville OVERHEATING :(

    Quote Originally Posted by Submariner409 View Post
    If your engine has the coolant-heated throttlebody, those are known to clog and cause purge flow issues.

    Bypass the TB circuit and replace the entire purge line with proper sized reinforced rubber fuel line from a parts house. Screw-type band clamps. Be careful wth that plastic surge tank nipple.

    Coolant heated throttlebody ???? Theory says that, with the throttle blade almost closed - idle speeds - the rapid expansion of the air on the vacuum side of the throttle blade can cause ice formation on cool, humid mornings. Heat the throttle bore. Old carburetor stuff - the heat riser - did that as well as assured cold fuel atomization. But we have port fuel injection. Our throttlebody is bolted to an aluminum water crossover so it naturally heats as the coolant does so. Heated throttlebody = redundant, and it lasted only 2 years or so.
    Forum site let me down again, almost finished reply yesterday when it froze - & at about the 3rd attempt to get cursor to move, the site just disappeared off the screen.

    Oh well, here we go again: yup, knew that hence the current &, probably, final phase in tackling this problem. Of course you couldn't have known that, so it's not that I'm not grateful.

    Had already printed off an enlarged copy of that diagram, to keep by me when I start dismantling. I now know I have the heated TB, because the line from the surge tank ends on a vertical pipe. I now also know where to be looking for the other end, to lead me to the infamous hollow bolt.

    Couple of details though, how much pipe do I need to do the bye-pass job? I'd like to get it before I further disable the car & why do you say fuel line? Short of going to a truck dealer I'm going to have difficulty getting some with anything like that i.d. - 8 or 10mm seems to be about the norm here.

  13. #57
    Submariner409's Avatar
    Submariner409 is offline If it won't run, install a boombox
    Automobile(s): 2002.5 F55 STS - 67,500 miles, 2014 Explorer XLT FWD
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    MD Eastern Shore, Kent Island
    Age
    77
    Posts
    55,918

    Re: 1999 Cadillac Seville OVERHEATING :(

    Reinforced rubber fuel line comes on large spools in many different ID sizes. Use a length of it - proper ID - and go straight from the hollow bolt/nipple over to the surge tank. Use screw-type band clamps - fuel line size.

    Why reinforced fuel line??? Because it is tough and easily withstands any normal cooling system pressure.

    5 second quick search ..........

    https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_n...fuel+line+hose

  14. #58
    Paul London's Avatar
    Paul London is offline Cadillac Owners Connoisseur
    Automobile(s): '98 AND '99 Seville STS's (a.k.a. STS1 & STS2)
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    London, England
    Posts
    1,112

    Re: 1999 Cadillac Seville OVERHEATING :(

    As far as I know, it only comes in 6,8 &19mm ID here for automotive use, so, depending on what I can find, it looks like ordinary coolant pipe for me - & I'm certainly not going to buy a spool of it, I begrudge having to buy a metre, but I suspect that's the minimum.

    Off to a restoration show in a couple of weeks (poor substitute for a weekend in LA - but there you go) so there'll be a couple of specialist traders there, I can wait that long now, so I'll see what i ca find.

    You've mentioned clips before, not a fan of Detroit's staple fitting then (just as BMW & the French are latching on to them)?

  15. #59
    Submariner409's Avatar
    Submariner409 is offline If it won't run, install a boombox
    Automobile(s): 2002.5 F55 STS - 67,500 miles, 2014 Explorer XLT FWD
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    MD Eastern Shore, Kent Island
    Age
    77
    Posts
    55,918

    Re: 1999 Cadillac Seville OVERHEATING :(

    The spring clips are just fine for assembly line work - problem is, they seem to lose "spring" over the years and do so even more when you use the correct tool or drilled pliers to remove/replace them.

    I like fuel and coolant lines to be ......... secure.

    Drilled pliers? Yep - use a vise and high speed drill+bit to groove a cheap pair of slip joint pliers. I have used this particular one since the late 50s. It also works for the type that is a single round spring with angled tips. Good for drum brake springs, too.
    Attached Images
    duke7595 likes this.

  16. #60
    Paul London's Avatar
    Paul London is offline Cadillac Owners Connoisseur
    Automobile(s): '98 AND '99 Seville STS's (a.k.a. STS1 & STS2)
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    London, England
    Posts
    1,112

    Re: 1999 Cadillac Seville OVERHEATING :(

    Quote Originally Posted by Submariner409 View Post
    The spring clips are just fine for assembly line work - problem is, they seem to lose "spring" over the years and do so even more when you use the correct tool or drilled pliers to remove/replace them.

    I like fuel and coolant lines to be ......... secure.

    Drilled pliers? Yep - use a vise and high speed drill+bit to groove a cheap pair of slip joint pliers. I have used this particular one since the late 50s. It also works for the type that is a single round spring with angled tips. Good for drum brake springs, too.
    Guess I've been lucky, once I'd discovered how to remove replace them (the proper tool has only recently become available here - but at such a price), although access can be an issue, e.g. the heated TB connections.

    Love those drilled pliers (all these years I've struggled with brake shoe springs - & the answer's so obvious!). So one pair of waterpump pliers (my spring clamp removal tool of choice) will soon have an appointment with a drill - & I'll be looking for a cheap pair of slip joints! (for when those just not enough room to wield those 10" WP pliers)

    B-t-w, those screw clamps you favour, I assumed you meant the ones with the course thread that drives the free end of the band. But, then I wondered if you actually mean what we call fuel line clamps, i.e. the ones with the small set screw into a trapped nut at a tangent to the clamp (bit like those bent wire ones you'll know from '50's British cars); supposed to pull into a true circle - but only available in smaller sizes.

    ----------

    Oh yes, back to the original story, got a metre length of heater hose (+ 2 clamps) for £2-odd at the weekend, so last night, removed the hollow bolt to clear it (didn't fancy poking what was blocking it back into the cooling system) only to find it wasn't blocked - but not a dribble came out of it's hole! Anyway, bypassed the heated TB, reassembled the air intake, topped off the water (antifreeze can come later, if I've finally cracked the problem!) Fired it up, left it idling but got called in for dinner, so never got up to temp. but that new piece of pipe was warm, so must have water flowing along it now - so perhaps the final piece of the problem was the TB! Might find out tonight

  17. Remove Advertisements
    Cadillac Forums
    Advertisements
     

+ Reply to Thread
Page 4 of 4 FirstFirst 1 2 3 4

Quick Reply Quick Reply

Register Now

Please enter the name by which you would like to log-in and be known on this site.

Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

What Cadillac(s) do you own? (Or type NONE)

Please select your insurance company (Optional)

Your date of birth and age are displayed in several places on the forum. Only the administrator will have access to your date of birth should you choose to hide it via the privacy option below.

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Bookmarks

Cadillac Posting Rules

  • You may post new threads
  • You may post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts