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41K views 59 replies 15 participants last post by  Paul London 
#1 ·
I bought a 99 seville in Jan. with 108,000 miles. I drove to Kansas City, MO from Wisconsin two days after I bought it (moved). The car drove fine. The first weekend I drove downtown the car overheated. I found some threads online that say it is the head gasket. I brought the car to a cadillac dealership and they said "yes it is the head gasket". I brought the car to another place and they ran a test (mixed some liquid with the coolant and did not see a color change) and found not to be a head gasket. This mechanic stated there is nothing wrong with the head gasket and replaced the fan sensore and sent me on my way. One week later I drove downtown and the temp has from the middle about an 1/8 inch (about 3/4 of the gauge). After it raised it went back down after about a minute. When I pull off from a stop light I can hear air bubbles. I need help and hoping this is an easy fix before I drive it back to WI to the dealership to get fixed.

Any help PLEASE!!!!
 
#59 ·
Re: 1999 Cadillac Seville OVERHEATING :(

The spring clips are just fine for assembly line work - problem is, they seem to lose "spring" over the years and do so even more when you use the correct tool or drilled pliers to remove/replace them.

I like fuel and coolant lines to be ......... secure.

Drilled pliers? Yep - use a vise and high speed drill+bit to groove a cheap pair of slip joint pliers. I have used this particular one since the late 50s. It also works for the type that is a single round spring with angled tips. Good for drum brake springs, too.
 

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#60 ·
Re: 1999 Cadillac Seville OVERHEATING :(

The spring clips are just fine for assembly line work - problem is, they seem to lose "spring" over the years and do so even more when you use the correct tool or drilled pliers to remove/replace them.

I like fuel and coolant lines to be ......... secure.

Drilled pliers? Yep - use a vise and high speed drill+bit to groove a cheap pair of slip joint pliers. I have used this particular one since the late 50s. It also works for the type that is a single round spring with angled tips. Good for drum brake springs, too.
Guess I've been lucky, once I'd discovered how to remove replace them (the proper tool has only recently become available here - but at such a price), although access can be an issue, e.g. the heated TB connections.

Love those drilled pliers (all these years I've struggled with brake shoe springs - & the answer's so obvious!). So one pair of waterpump pliers (my spring clamp removal tool of choice) will soon have an appointment with a drill - & I'll be looking for a cheap pair of slip joints! (for when those just not enough room to wield those 10" WP pliers)

B-t-w, those screw clamps you favour, I assumed you meant the ones with the course thread that drives the free end of the band. But, then I wondered if you actually mean what we call fuel line clamps, i.e. the ones with the small set screw into a trapped nut at a tangent to the clamp (bit like those bent wire ones you'll know from '50's British cars); supposed to pull into a true circle - but only available in smaller sizes.

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Oh yes, back to the original story, got a metre length of heater hose (+ 2 clamps) for £2-odd at the weekend, so last night, removed the hollow bolt to clear it (didn't fancy poking what was blocking it back into the cooling system) only to find it wasn't blocked - but not a dribble came out of it's hole! Anyway, bypassed the heated TB, reassembled the air intake, topped off the water (antifreeze can come later, if I've finally cracked the problem!) Fired it up, left it idling but got called in for dinner, so never got up to temp. but that new piece of pipe was warm, so must have water flowing along it now - so perhaps the final piece of the problem was the TB! Might find out tonight :suspense:
 
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