Northstar Engines and System Technical Discussion Discussion, Crack my Block!!!!!! in Cadillac Engine Technical Discussion; Well, the verdict is in, the heads were pulled & we found were all the water was going, #8 had ...
Sometimes if a cylinder hydrostatically locks (due to water injestion or a stuck fuel injector) the load on the cylinder wall will be great enough when the engine locks to crack the cylinder liner and the aluminum surround around it.....but that usually leaves other signs , also.
In any case, that block is scrap as there is really no way to repair it within reason.
There are lots of used Northstar engines on the market from scrap yards....and GM markets brand new replacement engines (new engines, not re-mans) thru the Goodwrench program.
With that type of failure I would honestly contact the Cadillac zone rep and ask for some help or consideration in the repair costs....might save you a little as some consideration in an unusual case like that is common.
When this whole thing started, I thought for sure I was just pulling the heads, & when we pulled the first head, the game was all over. It started as a steam problem out of the tail pipe, with water consumption that was out the roof.
Anyway, now that I've got my head back on, I'll start to look around for something I can rebuild or purchase in the way on an engine.
A cracked cylinder liner is very very rare. The cases that I have seen were traced to either a failed/stuck open injector that flooded a cylinder and hydrostatically locked it or a water intrusion situation where the car was driven thru some deep standing water (even inadvertently/unknowingly) and sucked some water into the intake that went thru the engine briefly hydrostatically locking one cylinder.
If a random and rare cracked liner happens when the engine was manufactured it always shows up very quickly at low miles well in warranty. There is an occasional one of those (one or two a year maybe at the most) but for a car to go 8 years or more and then crack a cylinder liner leads one to look for another, external cause.
Anyway, just wondering what the thoughts are out there? Replace, find another motor to rebuild, scrap the whole car? 96 Deville [/QUOTE]
96CD. It appears you are willing and able to work on your own Caddy so here goes.
You have nearly a complete engine of known good parts. I have been looking into ways to attain N* engines with a known blown head gasket(s) for testing. Well to make a long story short, the best place that I have found to date being the wrecking yards. The core engines! These engines are being recycled (melted down as scrap aluminum). I have found the local core prices ranging from a low of $25.00 to a high of $100.00 per core. That is the money anyone that does not return his or her old core will lose. All businessmen need to make a profit and are willing to part with any core for a minimal charge. Say if you offer $40.00 for the $25.00 core or $125.00 for the $100.00 core, that is a lot of good parts at a low price. You may find a core that is complete? My next step is to learn the location of the part numbers on the block or heads and decipher these numbers as to the year and hp such as vin-y or vin-9. Maybe one would need to time-sert a block or swap some parts to assemble a complete working engine but the core prices are right. Once you have all the parts and pieces you need from both engines and she is running fine simply take the remaining parts back to the wrecking yard for recycling.
If anyone on the forum knows the location and meaning of these block or head numbers please post.
With virtually all the hydrauliced cylinders I've seen both automotive and aircraft, there is a bent connecting rod to go with it. With aircraft the head usually splits and the cylinder stays whole but the rod buckles. Surprisingly enough, holes in the piston come from pre-ignition/detonation rather than hydraulics. When the cylinder comes clear off the engine from base stud failures it's usually a faulty paint job, the wrong O-ring, or loose base nuts.
Cracks in the cylinders of flathead Fords both 6's and V-8's starting at the exhaust valve seats and extending down the cylinder were very common. I actually fixed some of them by driving steel wool saturated with J-B Weld into the cracks with a screwdriver and installing a valve seat insert by machining the proper recess in the block. They all worked for a while and some were virtualy a permanent repair. Sometimes you do what you have to do to get by.