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Time Serts, Norm's, SureGrip Stud Kit??????

33K views 54 replies 27 participants last post by  Submariner409 
#1 ·
Time Serts, Norm's, SureGrip Stud Kit??????
Has anyone tried SureGrip SG102 Stud Kit designed and developed by Northstar Performance. http://www.northstarperformance.com/sgstuds.php

Any input as to which is best?
Where to buy parts?
Headgasket? Brand
 
#2 ·
Totally up to you. I developed the SG102 stud kit, so you know my answer...

The studs are one piece and strong. They won't pull up or expand when torqued. I've done the head gaskets on over 50 engines with 0 failures, and if inserts such as the two types stated above were all I could use, I'd give up doing Northstars. I've had four calls in the last two months from people who have done their head gaskets with both types of inserts, that have failed within the first two hours. I don't know the exact reasons why but I have a pretty good idea. I now have Davz old engine block in my new shop with the *orm's inserts that had failed- I'll be doing some inspection work on that engine as to why. These are the best inserts available on the market, but still, studs are the way to go.

Do it once, and do it for good.

SG102 studs, Fel-Pro gaskets, and you're good to go for a very, very long time.
 
#6 ·
Studs are the way to go my friend, I used them on my HG job they are pretty slick and Jake (^^ 97eldo) has used them on 50+ HG jobs with no failures so far (not including the people that have bought and installed themselves).

He was also very helpful when I was having problems with the job itself.
 
#9 ·
Chacen, ``NortHStaR`` has used the studs as well as a few other forum members and many people that are not forum members. If installed correctly - (the large diameter end must be countersunk roughly one sixteenth of an inch below the deck surface) the chance of head gasket failure is slim to nil. If not properly countersunk, the head can tighten against the stud itself instead of compressing the gasket against the block- instant failure. This is where common sense comes into play. Really, it`s foolproof and by far the easiest and most durable way to secure the heads once and for good, and retain even clamping force on the head gasket.
 
#10 ·
I used Norms insert kit with ARP studs. No issues and they work fine. I think they would work even with some bad porosity in the holes. There is a good quantity of aluminum that gets drilled out. The inserts are beefy and grip extremely well.

However, it would be easy to screw up on the drilling if your not careful. In fact, its better to predrill with Norms inserts and then use his drilling tool procedure.

If I were to do it a second time, I'd use the studs kit that Northstar Performance is promoting. The reason why is that it comes with a better tool set to drill the holes square and eliminates extra parts (inserts) and simplifies the process. I like the one piece idea.
 
#11 ·
I'll have to update the photos on my site. The drill and tapping fixture is now all in one, 1.25" deep precision machined drill and tap bushings welded solid into a 3/8" thick CNC plasma cut plate. This simplifies the process even more and is very accurate. The fixture is bolted to a jig when it's welded so that it remains flat and square.

The box containing the drill/tap fixture, studs, hardware, everything together; weighs 14 lbs. It's solid. I'll do what I can to update the site in the next few days. The kits for the newer style Northstar (2000+) will be in stock in about two weeks.
 
#12 ·
I won't knock Norm's - that is what I used and am happy with the results. But as I have said in previous posts 97 Eldo's kit was not available when I did HGs. If it had been I would have probably used it instead.

Jake - When installed properly how deep do your studs go into the block?
 
#16 ·
To any and all people who ordered the stud kit, the studs have all come in and are being packaged now. There are kits available now for 2000-2005 Northstars as well, SG500 series. All studs are quality inspected twice- once by the machine shop and again by my team.

I'll be keeping more and more supplies in stock from now on to avoid any delay in getting the stud kits.

Thanks
-Jake
 
#18 ·
Gentlemen: I am being forced into this situation with my 97 Eldorado, 64k miles. I see that these posts are a few years old...what has transpired since then? What is the best way to go with the cyl head repairs? Does anyone know of a shop in colorado that does these? THanks in advance.
Ron Z
Lk George, Colorado
 
#19 ·
Howdy Jake. I've been searching the web tyring to figure out the best way to go with my 97 Eldorado.... Do you have a web site? Where are you located? Do you know of a shop in Colorado that has done these, and is familiar with them? Any suggestions would be gratly appreciated.
Thanks
Ron Z
 
#21 ·
Ron I apologize for my delays in response. The stud kits are in stock as of now but I am starting to lose my patience with my suppliers. Too expensive, quality not to my standards (some studs had to be sent back to them for refund & recycle) and too many time delays.

I just picked up some very nice thread rolling die heads this afternoon that will work in my lathe so I can roll threads in house. This way we can be in charge of quality control from the selection of the steel to the final packaging. The only outsourced process will be heat treating from 04/15/11 and onward.

Check this out:



I have 5 of these exact thread rolling heads now and a six tool post turret lathe. Until I get a machining center or screw machine, some things will still be manual but quality will go up I promise that.

It's a nightmare dealing with suppliers who cannot keep up to demands and do not check thread quality often enough. This way all issues will be solved once and for good.
 
#22 ·
Ronz - I do not have anyone in Colorado at all right now, but I will help if I can, and I deal with any shop you can find and introduce them to the stud kit and how easy (allbeit time consuming) it is to install.

I can't wait to start cranking these studs out in the shop again. I have a dedicated person (my father who was a machinist/maintenance mechanic for many years) to run the lathe and threading equipment full time. His health isn't the best but I feel it is something he could do and he says he'd love to!

Time to get cracking and get everything working smoothly once again as it used to. Thank you to all who have had patience with me. Almost through the last bit of the rough waters now.
 
#25 ·
Thank you Ron, I look forward to hearing from you and your mechanic! I'll help in any way I can.

Joe - I just tested one of these rolling heads in the old Atlas lathe that I designed the studs on. Effortless, perfect rolled threads. Oh my suppliers are not going to like to hear that I got ahold of equipment like this. Allbeit I bought these 5 heads used, they are in perfect shape and I did not have to pay the $3,300 price tag per head. This is $15,000 worth of tooling but nobody would ever believe the price I picked them up for. Time to make better products, have more stock on hand, and pay off some debt so I can continue on with the expansion plans. I don't like having supplier debt over my head for products I am not happy with.

Sometimes if you want things done right you have to do it yourself. I just never had the funds to invest in the machinery to mass produce the studs. This will be a big leap forward.
 
#29 ·
Jake- I need to get this thing scheduled with the garage, if I can. Can I order the studs now? I've left a mesage on your voice mail, with no reponse - Not sure the system is working. how do I call you direct, if that's the best way. Or, are you not set up yet to sell them, with the new machinery and all.
Thanks much!
Ron Z
 
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