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Stubborn Water Pump Removal

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engine sts
16K views 17 replies 11 participants last post by  sefiro 
#1 · (Edited)
Guys, just wanted to give you a heads up. I did a search on here and tried to find any tricks to removing a water pump that had corroded and stuck to the housing. I read the thread about using an impact but I didnt have one. I first soaked it in PB Blaster and let it sit, only after breaking one of the "teeth" off of the rented tool from Autozone. Still I couldn't get it to budge. I had tried so much that I rounded off the teeth somewhat and made grooves in the old water pump to where it wouldn't catch to remove it. The strap for the socket mentioned in another thread would have come in very handy. I finally got this thing loose with a breaker bar and a pry bar (I used the pry bar to keep the removal tool engaged fully by using the engine mount as leverage). The flanges on the water pump where it contacts the housing are "raised" a little on the "tightening" side and doesn't sit flush with the housing like it does on the "loosening" side and you can get a lot better grip with the socket on this side. How I got it out was luckily my water pump wasn't fully seated against the stops and I turned it like I was tightening it (counter-clockwise) until it broke free. Due to the socket getting a better "grip" this way it was a lot easier. I was then able to loosen the water pump (clockwise) with no problems. I hope this helps someone who's pump is stuck like mine so they won't spend 3 hours trying to remove a stuck water pump.
 
#3 ·
It's a 97 STS. I really don't think that I over torqued it. The tangs weren't fully seated against the stop. I could have easily kept "tightening" it and removed it that way as the the tangs are easily bendable and the grooves aren't tapered but I just moved it enough to free it. Just trying to help out those like me who don't have pneumatic tools and such at the house. I was at my wits end because I had already F'd up the old pump trying to break it free because the socket kept jumping off of it. I don't think that an impact would have even helped due to the old pump tabs being screwed. Not enough left there for the tool to grab.
 
#12 ·
I have a 02 Sev
Guys, just wanted to give you a heads up. I did a search on here and tried to find any tricks to removing a water pump that had corroded and stuck to the housing. I read the thread about using an impact but I didnt have one. I first soaked it in PB Blaster and let it sit, only after breaking one of the "teeth" off of the rented tool from Autozone. Still I couldn't get it to budge. I had tried so much that I rounded off the teeth somewhat and made grooves in the old water pump to where it wouldn't catch to remove it. The strap for the socket mentioned in another thread would have come in very handy. I finally got this thing loose with a breaker bar and a pry bar (I used the pry bar to keep the removal tool engaged fully by using the engine mount as leverage). The flanges on the water pump where it contacts the housing are "raised" a little on the "tightening" side and doesn't sit flush with the housing like it does on the "loosening" side and you can get a lot better grip with the socket on this side. How I got it out was luckily my water pump wasn't fully seated against the stops and I turned it like I was tightening it (counter-clockwise) until it broke free. Due to the socket getting a better "grip" this way it was a lot easier. I was then able to loosen the water pump (clockwise) with no problems. I hope this helps someone who's pump is stuck like mine so they won't spend 3 hours trying to remove a stuck water pump.
I hve a 02 Seville STS and the water pump is stuck like Chuck. Are you saying, I nd an Impact to remove it or do I have the guy take the breaker bar and have em pull counter clockwise to break it free then clock wise to take it out? My car is over heating and I replaced the Thermostat with a new one,
Guys, just wanted to give you a heads up. I did a search on here and tried to find any tricks to removing a water pump that had corroded and stuck to the housing. I read the thread about using an impact but I didnt have one. I first soaked it in PB Blaster and let it sit, only after breaking one of the "teeth" off of the rented tool from Autozone. Still I couldn't get it to budge. I had tried so much that I rounded off the teeth somewhat and made grooves in the old water pump to where it wouldn't catch to remove it. The strap for the socket mentioned in another thread would have come in very handy. I finally got this thing loose with a breaker bar and a pry bar (I used the pry bar to keep the removal tool engaged fully by using the engine mount as leverage). The flanges on the water pump where it contacts the housing are "raised" a little on the "tightening" side and doesn't sit flush with the housing like it does on the "loosening" side and you can get a lot better grip with the socket on this side. How I got it out was luckily my water pump wasn't fully seated against the stops and I turned it like I was tightening it (counter-clockwise) until it broke free. Due to the socket getting a better "grip" this way it was a lot easier. I was then able to loosen the water pump (clockwise) with no problems. I hope this helps someone who's pump is stuck like mine so they won't spend 3 hours trying to remove a stuck water pump.
Guys, just wanted to give you a heads up. I did a search on here and tried to find any tricks to removing a water pump that had corroded and stuck to the housing. I read the thread about using an impact but I didnt have one. I first soaked it in PB Blaster and let it sit, only after breaking one of the "teeth" off of the rented tool from Autozone. Still I couldn't get it to budge. I had tried so much that I rounded off the teeth somewhat and made grooves in the old water pump to where it wouldn't catch to remove it. The strap for the socket mentioned in another thread would have come in very handy. I finally got this thing loose with a breaker bar and a pry bar (I used the pry bar to keep the removal tool engaged fully by using the engine mount as leverage). The flanges on the water pump where it contacts the housing are "raised" a little on the "tightening" side and doesn't sit flush with the housing like it does on the "loosening" side and you can get a lot better grip with the socket on this side. How I got it out was luckily my water pump wasn't fully seated against the stops and I turned it like I was tightening it (counter-clockwise) until it broke free. Due to the socket getting a better "grip" this way it was a lot easier. I was then able to loosen the water pump (clockwise) with no problems. I hope this helps someone who's pump is stuck like mine so they won't spend 3 hours trying to remove a stuck water pump.
Ok guys, I'm having an issue with my 02 Cadillacs water pump (which is corroded to death and stuck like Chuck) I rented the special tool to get this damn thing out and to my dismay, it slips off the old pump. I DNT Wana break the teeth on OReilys tool but I need this thing out like no other and soon. The car was over heating, so I replaced the Thermostat, cleaned the Throttle Body and replaced the old bracket that has the thick seal to stop the air from seapping where the throttle body is. The water pump has been sprayed with PB BLAST so much I walked away and shut the hood and will attack it tomorrow. Need help guys. The mechanic was using a large breaker bar to break it loose...No Dice... Help guys
 
#5 ·
The difference is in the tool.

I bought a Lisle brand tool from O'Reilly's and it stunk. I spend hours working on that stupid thing with no success. I had a extra pair of hands from my dad, pry bars, cheater bars, you name it. After breaking a couple of teeth off the tool, I went to an acquaintance of mine who works at a dealer and asked if I could please borrow his N* water pump tool? He obliged, we compared the tools side by side and the Lisle was slightly the wrong size to start with and not nearly the overall quality.

-I returned the Lisle and got my money back. With the loaned GM dealer tool and the water pump was off and the new on in a short and drama free few moments.

-It was an easy job once I got the right tool, but impossible without.
 
#6 ·
I agree with the ones from autoparts stores being poor quality. I even bent the "teeth" out a little to try to get a better grip and repaired the rounded edges with a file before i used it. There was no way it was going to break it free without doing what I stated above.
 
#10 ·
:welcome:

You may not even need the strap. I replaced mine without one. It's only needed for the most stubborn impellers. Even then, a few short bursts from an impact (if you have one) will usually break it free, but to answer your question, I'd get a steel plate, make some measurements, put the plate in a vice, heat it with a propane or Oxy-Acetalene torch to red hot and bend it to shape. It only needs 4 bends. Then measure, mark and drill the 3 holes. I made my own socket, but never bothered with the strap. I'll make that when and if the time ever comes that I need it.

Hint:
Borrow one from a parts store with a loan-a-tool program and take your measurements off of it if you really want your own.
 
#13 · (Edited)
The water pump assembly unlocks clockwise 1/5 turn. There's an odd tang that must be correctly oriented upon assembly, pump locked in counterclockwise to 73 lb/ft. O-ring wet with raw coolant.

Overheating - usually NOT the water pump - first is the purge line and hollow bolt/nipple, next is a damaged water pump drive system caused by a failed belt tensioner pulley. Also usually not the thermostat, either.

DO NOT use the sealant tablets recommended on the radiator sight shield sticker - that was discontinued by GM TSB in 2006.

Use the retainer strap on the correct water pump removal socket.

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#14 ·
Increasing torque on that WP may or may not work and might damage the WP socket, pump or housing. A few short bursts from an impact wrench will usually do the trick and you MIGHT get away without the retainer strap. Seems like most WP sockets are sold (or rented) without it.
 
#15 ·
Could one of you gentlemen who has done this job with an impact gun (successfully) tell me what kind of impact gun you used? Or more specifically, the torque range it has? I have one that I borrowed.. I think it's a harbor freight type, 250 ft/lbs max, and it wont budge that stuck pump in my 99 ETC. I'm hoping its just too weak, and that a better impact wrench could do the trick. Thanks in advance for any suggestions
 
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